I've recently got a mark 3 GTI that has a Cat 1 system fitted. It's not working very well and i beleive causing the problems i have with the eleccy winows and central locking so i want to remove it. I know i could pay to have it done but is it easy enough to do yourself? I have found the control box behind the dash and seen that most of the wires appear to go down the drivers side kick panel where a few wires have been snipped / joined etc (for the fuel pump?). I think Cat 1 systems immobilise in two places so where is the second likely to be? I'm thinking if i can find all of the cables i can simply remove / rejoin the old ones and i'll be away...... Anyone done this? Cheers!
The second splice should be in the starter wiring. Sounds like you are most of the way there to removing it, as you seem to have traced all/most of the wiring. Once you definately have all the wiring traced, then just remove it all, and re-join any original wiring that has been spliced into. Relatively easy really. Hope that helps.
Yes that helps thanks very much. I want to be as sure as i can be that i have traced all of the wiring before i start removing it as i can't afford to be without a car if it won't start I'm quite sure the alarm is causing my two problems, apart from the fact i can hear a relay or something ticking in the control box after i switch the ignition off all of the windows drop by an inch or two and the central locking pump goes nuts. This only happens after i open the door (i can sit in the car forever more but it doesn't happen until i open the door). I'm guessing that the total closure system has died amongst other things as the alarm doesn't sound either I need a CAT 1 system for my insurance so will have to get another installed but i want to remove this one first to see if the faults go away.... I have a week off next week so will do it then. Thanks again!
Try and figure out what make it is and get the wiring diagrams, remove the old alarm and buy a Cat 1 alarm and wire that one in as the points are usually the same. I'd recommend getting hold of a Hornet Maxx 1. Cheap and easy alarm.
It's a GT Auto Alarm 136 - 142 (as i have the Certificate of Installation for it), hadn't though of getting a diagram for it, will go and google now!! I'd be quite happy installing a system myself but i will need a certificate for my insurance (which i think is crazy on a car that's 12 years old which i paid 750 for but that's another story.....) so i'd have to get it installed by a 'pro'
You don't have to get it installed by a pro'. You can do one of two things. 1. Buy a Toad AI606 as this i know comes with a blank certificate, all you have to do is fill it in and fit the alarm. or 2. Fit the alarm and make sure it is working perfect then take the car to a place that fits alarms and tell them that the alarm paperwork has gone walk abouts, they will test it and if it's all good will write you out a new certificate for a small fee. If you need a guide on fitting an alarm see the stickies as i have recently written one.
if the dealer is going to test the alarm they do not just test it the WILL remove the trim etc to ensure the alarm has been fitted to the CORRECT standard and if not happy with the installation will NOT issue a certificate it is not just a question of fitting an alarm anyone can fit an alarm but fitting it correctly is a different matter
Last comment is not true!! I had a Cat 1 alarm fitted to my car with no certificate. Took it along to an alarm fitters and they tested it (only for operation, they do not sign the certificate to say they fitted it, only that it works), 30 mins later and a new bonnet plunger and i had a new certificate. 30 no trim/panels removed. Fitting an alarm and immobiliser is easy if you are good with electrics. All the info is there on the net and using a little nouce to position the siren etc is all it takes.
I have seen a fair few alarms fitted at a staggering cost by so called professionals - receipts to prove and after inspecting their handy work you would be better off without the alarm. I have seen many an alarm fail to work correctly due, to pro's using those crappy plastic splice joiner thingies, (from Halfords) that eventually fall off resulting, in the alarm not working correctly. - Ever had just one side of the cars indicators flash? or the central locking function fail? And as for mounting - i have seen some very poorley mounted sirens, most of them just screwed into the cars metal bulkhead, no paint or waxoil to protect the damage the screws make, so the bulhead usally rusts away. I have seen many a siren mounted bang in your face in the engine bay, without a secound thought of hiding it, so along comes mister theif, pops the bonnet, from the outside - very easy - and rips the siren out........ And I have never come across an alarm that has had the control box anywhere near mounted correctly, let alone to any standard!!! I have seen A Toad box pushed up between the air duct and glove box with only friction holding it - it could have slipped down at any time, or have been found very easily by any theif. I have seen a laser alarm held into place with on cable tie that was inturn tied to the cars wiring loom tugging away and putting strain on that!!!!!!! - are these the standards you speak off??? Anyone can fit an alarm & immoboliser much better then any of the pro's work i have seen. It only takes an extra 30 mins to properly screw/secure the control box, cable tie the wiring out of the way. At the end of the day, alarm fitting is like any other machanical job on the car - if you take it to the pro's you are generally going to get a secound rate/bodge job. Save yourself the pennies, do the job correctly, yourself. It will take longer to do the job (Because you will be doing it properly). IMO (from many a bad experiance) when you do it a job for a living, time is money, so better get it done quickly as opposed to properly? - this seems to be the ethos of the motortrade from where I am standing. HTH
Not true i have had experiance of this myself. Tell that to some of those so called proffesional fitters that people spend their money with getting poorley fitted alarm that will fail in a few months/years.
Looking at the present system it's not fitted all that well to be honest. The control box was just stuffed up above the pedals between some wiring so it was very easy to find. the wiring to the fuel pump looks ok (it's properly soldered and insulated) but none of it is particulalry well disguised to be honest (i though it should be wrapped up inblack tape or something?) I'll take a look around the starter wiring to see if i can see the second circuit and see what that is like. If i can see it i'll remove everything myself! As for the siren it's mounted on the bulk head in quite an obvious position but i wouldn't say there's too much choice with that one. It is as well protected from road spray etc as it can be though....
I've only just gotten around to having a good look at this today I removed and resoldered / insulated the wiring to the fuel pump and then traced the other wiring up to the ignition switch so removed all that and made it good, stripped all the other wiring, sensors etc out and i still have a working car An even bigger bonus is that as suspected the alarm was causing the faults with the central locking and electric windows. so i now have a central locking system that works and windows that don't go down everytime i get out of the car!! Will get a new CAT1 system installed as soon as funds allow....
