Solve my nightmare... running

Discussion in 'Carburettor' started by wak, Feb 28, 2010.

  1. WAK

    wak Forum Member

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    My car is starting to do my head in, a couple of months ago i had the car running, now after two months(ish) it is refusing to start again... Now you will have to excuse my mechanical/electrical knowledge here, as to be honest, i don't know much about these things but would rather give it a shot before i hand over a large sum of money to a garage!!

    Well, first off, the car...

    1983 mk1 golf c converted to run a 16v kr on twin 40's, megajolt jnr. ignition, and a few other things which i'll let the photo's show as i have no idea :(

    Tonight when i tried to fire it, it just spat fuel out the front of the trumpets to begin with.. Then i disconnected the fuel pump and it started trying to fire up, it has a spark and there is fuel, then took the plugs out and they were black, so cleaned them, put them in and the same, trying to fire but no go!! Was close to firing but it just didn't happen, then it stopped wanting to fire and just turned over... So gave up!!

    The car has an after-market alarm, Clifford arrow two which is old, think it controls an immobiliser, but it sparks whether its on or not. it also has a switch, on and em, on!! all looks good apart from wiring which looks as if my 6yr old sister has done it!!

    There are plugs here there and everywhere and one of the wires for the megajolt has come out, i temp fixed it and someone else has twisted together a broken wire too!! will also link this to an electrical problem page!!

    Now i want this car mot'd this week, i've had it running before so i do know everything works!! also i think i lost the position on 3rd and 4th plug lead, and because it has a ford distributor thingy(where the leads come from on the bulkhead) the numbers didnt match up in the first place so i have no idea, clockwise from top left it goes 1 3 4 2 and thats not where my leads go!!

    It also sometimes spits out flames so dont want to be putting my new filters on!!

    Any help would be much appreciated, feel sorry for me when you look at these photos and try and explain to me what they are and what they do!!

    cheers

    Megajolt ign.

    [​IMG]

    Megajolt ign. plug (its the top black wire which had broken free)

    [​IMG]

    again, top left which was the black one

    [​IMG]

    the on/on switch for alarm/immob

    [​IMG]

    the ford thing and a random plug (guessing its from megajolt)

    [​IMG]

    Two other plug things random and a wee bitty loose, only clips on one side whilst other side must be broken..

    [​IMG]

    random plug with what looks like a 7 hole female bullet connector (in rain tray bit)

    [​IMG]

    another random plug which looks too clean not to have been attached to something in the engine bay tucked up behind that ford distributor thingy!!

    [​IMG]


    thank you for taking the time to read this and for helping me out if you can!!

    Link to elctrical prob page:- http://www.clubgti.com/forum/showthread.php?p=1866285#post1866285
     
    Last edited: Mar 3, 2010
  2. gunit-84 Forum Member

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    hi, i run megajolt and the ford edis setup you have above, the picture at the bottom of the screen looks like the plug that goes to the coil pack. as for the molex plug that goes to the megajolt the black wire going to the top left should be the main earth. it all looks a bit messy like you say. try this link below and see if it all lines up? HTH.
    http://www.autosportlabs.net/MJLJ_V4_vehicle_installation_guide
     
  3. jamez Forum Member

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    I would remove a sparkplug, connect it to its lead then earth the plug with a jump lead, and try to start. If there is a problem with the megajolt you won't get a spark, if you do get a spark then the problem lies with the carbs. I would guess a stuck needle valve or a sunk float causing a flood
     
  4. WAK

    wak Forum Member

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    cheers, had a look at that page but the plug they show has 16 pins available, mines only has 14 and the colours of my wires are all messed up, the one that came out is almost co-axial like, it has an outer sheath which has been cut back and taped off properly (ie factory) and has a very thin fine wire on the inside, anyway i crimped it and put it back where it should be and re crimped a few more so they are better!!

    cheers for the link, when i have a bit more time i'll look through the whole page :thumbup:


    jamez I would remove a sparkplug, connect it to its lead then earth the plug with a jump lead, and try to start. If there is a problem with the megajolt you won't get a spark, if you do get a spark then the problem lies with the carbs. I would guess a stuck needle valve or a sunk float causing a flood

    removed a spark plug and found it sparking fine, although only did one, when i took the leads off again today to check the lugs again i noticed that plug one at the ford end had pulled out its connection although the sheath was still on, hopefully, fingers crossed that'll get it started, the over-fuelling though is another matter.. i've noticed as well that most cars (if not all) have a pump and a pressure regulator, by the looks of it mine only has a pump and looks like its never had a regulator, problem??

    cheers for the help so far guys!!

    also checked the inter cam? timing, they are spot on!!
     
  5. Mike_H Forum Addict

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    Did you build the car yourself, or did you buy it as a part-finished project? I'm assuming it's the latter. It sounds like it's never run since you had it. Have you ever seen it run at all - e.g. with the previous owner?

    I'm guessing that Megajolt is designed to be mapped by a laptop, or do you need specific equipment to tune it? It may be that it's never even been mapped...

    Sounds like you may well need to strip the carbs down to the float chambers and check if they're working properly.
     
  6. WAK

    wak Forum Member

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    i bought the car with a snapped belt so never heard it running whilst the previous owner had it, i put in a 90k kr engine to replace it with and have since had it running and have even driven it a few miles. The car the other night was almost firing, but not quite, hopefulli it was just this dodgy lead!!

    gunit-84, what leads are you using??

    I suppose it wouldn't be a bad idea to rebuild the carbs anyway, but i did get a receipt with the car which had them setup and rr'd less than a 1000 miles before the belt shredded (which by looking at it have no idea how that has happened) and the guy before me who had it didn't have a clue :(

    Cheers
     
  7. Mike_H Forum Addict

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    How long has it been since the car was last running - if it's been sat for a while things can stick or seize up.
     
  8. WAK

    wak Forum Member

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    the car sat for a good 9 months before i got it, 2 months for me to get my finger out and get it running for the first time and now it's been sitting around 5 weeks again before it last started. Is there a guide on rebuilding the carbs anywhere? i have a mate who'll be able to help as he's an engineer but he's always jammed at work and lives miles away.. but there if i get stuck! is there a rebuild kit available which has everything i would need?

    cheers
     
  9. WAK

    wak Forum Member

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    well, after hooking it up to a mates car and putting in a battery big enough to start a truck, it didn't start... so... tied it to the back of ma mates van and after about half a mile of towing/bumping it starts, ran like a dream once it started, drove it for a mile and went like stink!!


    any thoughts on me not running a regulator, or because its never had one i'm thinking its specific for this set-up and doesn't need one??
     
  10. Mike_H Forum Addict

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    Has it got a filter on it? I'd have thought you'd be better with a regulator, as usually they're a regulator / filter combined. I'm no carb expert though. What fuel pump has it got on it?

    Glad you got it started, at least it proves it's been mapped, and gives you an incentive.
     
  11. WAK

    wak Forum Member

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    Cheers mike, i needed a wee boost on it as it's been doing my head in, soul destroying almost!!

    it's got a small in-line filter on it just before the pump, and i dont know what make it is, no visible markings and the stickers have faded!! it's great when its running so might just leave it!!

    There's also a rolling road coming up on Scottishvag so might take it to that and see how it goes, i've got another head i'm gonna build up as my mate does that sort of thing for a living and i'll get mates rates, he'd previously built me a series 2 rallye head which was spot on!!
     
  12. Mike_H Forum Addict

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    Ah, are you really up that way. I know a guy near Perth who's pretty good with setting up carbs. I'll ask him about the regulator scenario.

    If you're running a KR, I guess you're using some sort of Facet / other electric pump? In that case, it could well be you've got too much pressure and are flooding the carbs. That's kind of in line with having to tow it for a long time before it would start - you probably had to blow dry the cylinders and spark plugs first.
     
  13. gunit-84 Forum Member

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    wak, my plug leads are vw at the spark plug end but have ford connectors at the other so the fit the coil pack. they can be made easily you just need a set of each leads.
     
  14. WAK

    wak Forum Member

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    aye, when i tried to start the car fuel pishes out the front of the carbs, quite badly in fact!! i'll see about getting a regulator sorted for it, any makes/models people know and would recommend?? I'll take a pick of my set-up and try and figure out what make it is too..

    gunit-84, so i take it there are no specific leads, that's probably how mine had worked loose as someone has probably retro fitted the ford ends on..

    At least the car is running now, i'm going up to it in a min, hopefully this time it start by itself with no jumps or bumps :)
     
  15. Mike_H Forum Addict

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    Most people go for a Filter King Regulator I think. Loads of them on ebay.
     
  16. WAK

    wak Forum Member

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    went up to it tonight and it started first turn of the key, so happy :) i'll not touch it till it goes wrong again!!

    also, where will my rev counter be wired from, it doesn't work, i have noticed the megajolt has a pin for one but it isn't there, where else would it take it from?

    Also, there are three wires going to the block, two connected to the top of the oil filter housing and one next to a water pipe at side of engine, which colour wire goes where?? I think i have them all the right way as no warning lights are on but want to make sure!!

    also, what have people done with their oil breather on a kr engine, mines right now has nothing on it??
     
  17. jamez Forum Member

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    The original rev counter in a mk1 is connected to the neg. terminal on the coil, but as you now have megajolt , no coil to connect to. The coil output on the megajolt unit will not run the rev counter. You can make a simple circuit with 2 diodes and a zenner diode which when wired together, fit between the -ve wires to the coilpack and the revcounter. There is a diagram of how to do this on the megajolt site.

    http://www.autosportlabs.net/Image:Tach_circuit.jpg
     
    Last edited: Mar 4, 2010
  18. Mike_H Forum Addict

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    Oil breather solutions range from 'stuff a rag in it', plumb it back into the intake system, or use a catch tank (a soft drink bottle is the cheap and cheerful way).
     

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