did you try the box with a normal shifter first? much difference? does it cope well with full on high speed shifting?
Bill has the same box with a regular shifter (with a B+M short shift stick) and says the box is excellent - but this will not have the shift cut as the switch for this is on the seqshift lever - so clutchless changes will be more difficult.
Running in cheap gearbox oil replaced for pukka synthetic Redline lightweight shockproof gear oil today - the redline stuff has microspheres in it that cushion the gears from shock loadings - and its bright blue/turquoise, very odd for an oil, but at least I shall know its box oil if it leaks out LOL. As mentioned by the box builders, there were lots of tiny pieces of metal in the running in oil as the gears are brand new and had not been what he called 'tumbled' following cutting - its not a problem but you have to do 10-20 miles and then change the oil to flush the bits out.
Still working very very well - love it to bits - shifter and dog box was one of best mods I have made, but not recommended at all for the road IMO, ok if you trailer the car to tracks
In what way would you not recommend it for the road out of interest? as i have been thinking about one of these but do drive the car on the road , mainly just to and from track days.
Total pita changing down every gear for traffic lights, slow traffic etc Gears dont really want to change at partial effort, you need to be changing like you are on it all the time, which is just not possible on the road. Very stressful to use on a road car imo. But simply fantastic on the track.
Stumbled on this thread through a Google search. Was looking into the SQS E-Shifter to hook up to my 02Q synch gearbox. Rob your talking about the many changes on the road. Would this be extra harsh compared with the dog box gearing? Might be the converted option be less to harsh you recon. Still a lot of shifting though i understand. Greetings from the Netherlands Raymond
Hi Raymond, if you ride a motorbike, the seqshift is like that, all way down every gear every time you stop. If you drive in town a lot this becomes very boring lol. But for a fun car not driven in traffic a lot, its good fun. A dogbox in my opinion isnt for road use at all, unless you change gear very fast like on track, the dogs on the gears will wear very quickly and then the gears will be ruined. Being realistic, its just not possible to drive a road car all the time at track pace, so damage to expensive gears will result. A seqshift with synchro gears probably ok for road use, as long as not all the time in traffic.
I have a Volkswagen Lupo GTI with an 350Hp R20 in it. Its a weekend road project kind of car. Street racer so to say. Do have a single mass flywheel and had some gear shifting issues at high RPM. Tried several options to get it better but believe the synchroos just dont line up fast enough. Fluid damper helpen a lot....dieselgeek shifter is on....but this one was an option as well.but mostly because of the "cool as hell" shifting option (note 2 self not in traffic lol)
I've got one of the electronic Sequishifts that I got as part of a deal with SQS when buying a gear kit. They say it work with syncro boxes, but as I can't use it in the class I race in currently I've never used it so can't comment if it works or not, so sitting on the shelf....although you do still need to use the clutch. I just worked on the theory one two less options to thing to think about when changing gear.........as you get older that becomes important in a race car :-) As Rob says if you are having shifting problems adding more complexity is unlikely to be a good move. 350bhp isn't a huge amount of power these days and with modern boxes shouldn't be a reason for the box not too shift, it sounds more like an underlying issue with the box. Assume you've change the oil, put a decent synthetic oil in etc., checked the leaver adjustments etc. slight misalignment can often work fine during normal driving but as soon as you start pushing on shows up as refusal to go in to gear. Assume oil was clean? Clutch disengaging fully, sensible bite point so you are not under pushing the clutch when pushing on? Is it just one gear or a few? Recently had issues with a cracked syncro cone in an 02J (I believe - not had the box stripped yet) but it started to get sticky on the up shift to 3rd, then on an event under load downright refused to go up the box, but would go down. Eventually started grinding on the down shifts as well. need to split it but it will be a cracked syncro cone I'm sure. My point is the box was built up with the used cones and worked fine for a few hundred miles running in, dyno time and testing but hadn't been pushed hard, then one day started getting sticky in 3rd. I spent a while chasing ghosts, changing oil and adjusting etc. all the nromal things......the oils was a bit dirty when it came out but found some clearance issues with the big gears that the box had sorted out itself! so hoped that was the reason for the oil contamination. Anyhow, my point is make sure it's all working 100%, adjusted properly and the fluids upgraded to suit its driving style, then maybe get the box stripped and checked prior to adding more complexity to work around.
