Back story/theory: I think I can convert my 16v from KJET to MegaSquirt for less than the cost of the KJET parts I need (fuel pump housing, accumulator, new injectors and possibly a WUR). I will use the car to learn how to calibrate ECUs. Plan: Get an ABF inlet. Run MS for fuel only, keep 16v ignition system. Eventually go turbo and do CoP. Basically - am I over simplifying things?
Oversimplifying creates a great skeleton architecture. I'd add the ignition side of things too. The benefits to the part load and drivability are bigger than than the power output alone. Gurds
Thanks for your replies. My reasoning for keeping the ignition as is, was just to simplify things at the initial stage, and then to add it when pulling the engine out to go low compression and fit a trigger wheel at the same time. Is it much of a compromise taking the trigger from the hall sender or is it much better to use a trigger wheel?
When I first did this back in 2007 on the WOLF R and shared with the Club, I used the dizzy as the crank pick up. In fact it is still that way now! I have done KR conversions to mesgsquirt that way also. The ABF/ADL intake module complete and bolt on. The ABF injector rail will have 4 wires and a +VE for the injectors and the ADL just 2 wires. You can group the injectors for batch fire or on a MS2 ECU sequential. Not that it will make a difference to you. Or KR/9A intake with a modified solenoid injector rail and digifant inserts, adding a TPS on an "L" bracket or otherwise of using a 9A/6A/ACE throttle body. You will need an IAT and CTS also. I use an ABF 2 pin coolant temp and a 1.8T intake temp sensor. Both use Bosch NTC. The ignition side is fairly simple as you are only triggering the TCI-h to the rest. From there, if the config is set up right, you are ready to match fuel and spark details to the combustion of your engine. This is not done at only WOT but through out the entire speed load your engine will subjected to. Mapping is more involved than just filling boxes up, but for a starter that is what is done so you can get a feel for the numbers. Those who I have shown on here how to can feel free to chime in with what they have understood by this process.
I would be tempted to lay the wiring for the ignition but go fuel only for first few tuning runs, when you have a usable fuel map then switch over to ignition control as well. That's what I did and had a couple of issues with the ignition side that would have been a lot harder to track down without a proven good running fuel setup. I use hall sensor trigger on kr dizzy with no real issues, simple but effective!.
Thanks for your replies again. My main driver for doing things this way is that there is nothing wrong with the ignition side of my car but just about everything KJET related has fallen apart. If there have been success stories using the hall sensor, that's what I shall do.
