My 3dr has been sitting for a while and i recently discovered a couple of paddling pools! So stripped out the carpet and sound deadening last weekend and washed and have hung to dry and covered the sun roof thinking it was the seal (ordered new seal). So far i've covered the sunroof, checked the wiper tray under bonnet for clogging etc so they seem ok. I'm jet to check the doors to see if the plastic behind door cards is still there and working. Is there anything else anyone knows of? I'm now thinking of replacing heater matrix too (and adding the bypass) just in case! Is this an **** to do? I changed my vr6 one a few years ago and that was dash out jobby, is it the same for the Mk2?? I want to cover every possible issue as I'm about to order custom carpet and really dont want it wrecked!
Windscreen seal can leak, usually onto fusebox! Inner door membranes need to be fully intact & sealed right round mounting face. My mk2 runs with newspaper under front carpets during winter, leave doors open on drive in better weather to air it thoroughly
mk2 heater matrix requires removal of glove box & lower dash panels, plus centre console. Check for flow direction arrows on top of new matrix & connect accordingly. Mk3 matrix is recommended, but fitted pattern mk2, no problems yet! Air flap levers are a pain, take pics of where they connect before removal. Good luck, its fiddly as f+@$
When I was fitting new membranes to my 87 GTI 3dr, I tested water flow into the doors. I found that you can stop a lot of water hitting the membranes by fitting plastic sheet inside the inner door pressing, as a lot of water drops on to the inside of the membranes through the openings. I used the new foam membranes. More water gets into old cars, as the top of the outside panel, of the door, adjacent to the bottom of the window, tends to bow outwards, so the seal does not rub evenly along the window, thus does not seal well and more wter gets in than would in a new car even with new, expensive, seals. Make sure that the double sided tape sites just below the drain holes towards the top of the lower mounting face. This allows the water to run along the top of the joint between membrane and adhesive, and out of the holes. Got a great picture of my wife changing membranes, about 15 years ago.
Lozbebbers: I know what you mean with the air flap levers, had similar issues with my vr6. A lot of swearing out loud always helps with those kind of things :-) Daved: thanks mate, I'll check all those bits out. Where did you get the foam membranes? i've seen the cheapy plastice ones on ebay but if i'm gonna do it I'd rather only do it once, properly! Thanks for all your help, I'm gonna hopefully do all of this at next weekend!
Can't remember at the moment, maybe GSF or Europarts. They had OE part numbers, so may have got them from the dealer? Doubt that though as dealer parts in Eire cost lots more than from the UK! May still have the plastic sleeves they came in, with parts numbers, I will check and come back to you.
Well, blow me down I found the part no. sticker straight away, I had sensibly stuck in on a new roll of double sided tape. 3A0 887 201 H SCHUTZFOLI This is an oversized flat sheet which you cut to size. Make a temple from thin card, it's easier in the long run. Cut with a fine bladed scalpel to avoid tears. Words of warning: The foam is thicker than original so the door cards stick out a little. Also I used 3M Double-Coated Mounting Tape which is quite thick. I also bought some Henkel Mounting Tape which is similar but less flexible. So, the door cards stick out a bit more, perhaps 2mm. I don't mind, you can hardly notice it. I bought both from Lidl at different times when they were doing promotions on the stuff. I have been buying different brand of double sided tape for years to try to find the ultimate product. There must be a super sticky thin tape out there somewhere? This has been a perenial problem, I've owned six 2nd hand Gtis and had to do every one of them. Hence the photo of the wife doing the job on her car. Note, if you have internally adjustable mirrors you need to rescue the boxy plastic bit where the adjuster come through the film, and stick it on. Luckily my Gti came with only a driver's side mirror and this adjusts from outside.
Just out of interest whats the difference between the the mk2 and the mk3 heater matrix? is it just build quality and slightly diff shape? or is it more reliable?
Interesting - was looking on ETKA for these parts and got: 3A0 035 217 "Coverfoil" (about 3 ea). Can't find your part no. on there; how long ago did you buy it? Any photos of the foam? GSF list: "87208N DOOR MEMBRANE-FRONT G2 (2 Door) 8/83 >7/92 7.40" Can't find owt on the ECP site. Suspecting that the VW supplied item would simply be a bit of sheet pvc or similar, I was just going to try and source a roll from somewhere. The plot thickens Regarding fixing, when I worked at Aston Monkey they were largely held together with some nice thin 3M tape; transparent stuff that was more like transferring a gel than a length of solid tape. It appeared to retain its properties over time; meaning that it might be resealable. Obviously the abilty to get the membrane off again for maintanence etc without wrecking it would be handy.. Edit - this looks like it might have been the stuff.. Think that on my heap the water is getting into the door past the seal that runs along the bottom of the door glass; which appears to have shrunk several mil over the years and now has a gap at both ends. It properly p*sses in at the front. Checked today and the seals are about 27 from VW.. It's worth checking to see if there's a gap between the seals just behind the mirror..
The 3M tape at David Brown sounds just like the original? The tape you linked to looks perfect. The foam film is flexible but stiff, so is easier to handle than plastic. It probably stops a bit of noise as well. I used the 3M double sided, thick stuff, as it seem to have more adhesion than the Henkel tape (Henkel own Loctite now). I shall remove the door cards, and photo the film and the sticker when it gets warmer today. Fecking cold here at the moment!
The 3M double sided foam backed tape that I used is not the answer. The foil has become detached in places, leading to a small leak at the bottom. I shall investigate the ones to which theboymike linked. But don't hold your breath for a definative answer. I was careful to clean the foam foil before applying the tape with isoprop. alcohol, as advised by 3M. Reading data sheets on foam backed tapes, they may not work well on foamed plastics? The thin tapes that theboymike linked appear to be suitable for foam film?
Crikey, that's dedication Dave - nice one Looks like you've done a nice job on fitting the liner; I'm intrigued by the change to foam, although as you say I suppose it's easier to handle and is probably a bit more resilient if it's to be removed and replaced a few times too. I'm not 100% sure on the 3M tape tbh; it looks like a good bet but I'm not sure on how water resistant it would be. Also, it'd be worth knowing what the foam's made of, since the tapes appear to vary according to the plastics they're intended to bond. Plastics are notoriously crap for surface adhesion (paint, glue etc) and I think to get the best out of adhesives they're usually specifically designed for a certain plastic. Found a few suppliers (one here) seems reasonably priced, although it'd be worth checking that it's ultimately suitable for our application before buying a load. Might fire off an email to 3M if I get a minute. It's good to find others who want to make / have made a better stab at this crappy job than using a load of Tesco bags and gaffer tape
Been a while since i looked at this, you lads seemed to of done your homework, thanks for all the advice, I'll be starting mine at the weekend and hopefully will get round to ordering foam and tape tomorrow. Thanks again for all your help!
This may be the one, but at 20 a roll??????? http://www.vikingindustrial.co.uk/pdf/950.pdf I may send 3M a sample of the foam foil and ask them. I shall re-do the foils again in the summer. N.B. For maximum bond strength the surfaces should be thoroughly cleaned ideally with 3M VHB Surface Cleaner. Consult manufacturers directions for use and precautions when using cleaning solvents. Ideal tape application is accomplished when temperature is between 21C and 38C (70F and 100F) and the bond is allowed to dwell 72 hours. Initial tape application to surfaces at temperatures below 15C (59F) is not recommended. Firm application pressure needs to be applied to the whole bond area ideally using a roller or similar tool. They also recommend isopro. alcohol.
Let us know which adhesive tape you use? Take care with cleaning the edge of the foam! Not a good time due to temperature, see below: Iso. alcohol is also reccomended by 3M for cleaning. Good luck. For maximum bond strength the surfaces should be thoroughly cleaned ideally with 3M VHB Surface Cleaner. Consult manufacturers directions for use and precautions when using cleaning solvents. Ideal tape application is accomplished when temperature is between 21C and 38C (70F and 100F) and the bond is allowed to dwell 72 hours. Initial tape application to surfaces at temperatures below 15C (59F) is not recommended. Firm application pressure needs to be applied to the whole bond area ideally using a roller or similar tool.
Yeah the weather may cause an issue, it's averaging about 2C here at the mo so I'll wait until it warms up a bit. Car is off the road at the so I'll cover it up and hope for a sunny weekend, hopefully in the next month! Or a heated garage! Thanks for the tips, I'll def let you know how i get on
Would be interested to hear what 3m have to say if you do send them a sample. I take it there are no markings on the foam which allude to what it's made of?
