what are peoples thoughts on pipercross's new filter? it appears it replaces the bottom of the airbox. do you think potential gains are to be had here?? any input would be great. http://www.thepipercrossshop.co.uk/inductionkitdisplay.asp?model=164&kit=479
No idea on performance but would be surprised if it was better than a K&N or JR panel filter in a modified, standard airbox ...
Isn't that exactly the same as but in a cute airbox shape? Which has been proven to produce less power than a well modified standard box?
its not exactly the same,the one ^^ is for abf on digi and the one in the link is for kjet. newey get your drill out and get drilling your airbox ,much cheaper
I have one very similar in my garage (think it's a Mk1 box), doesn't it just let hot air in instead of the traditional airbox/cold air feed route?
i'v got one of these and to stop heat soak i was just going to weld a bit of mild steel sheet around it to box it off and maybe weld in a couple of cold air feeds. from my thinking that would help make an increase in performance maybe just a mild one but better than nothing.
pretty much what i had thought then guys cheers. does drilling the air box make a big difference or is it just for sound ? heard so many different storys.
in simple terms the colder the air the denser it is. dence air contains more oxygen so combusts better producing more power therefor logic dictates (as proven by any intercooled, turbo engine) that the colder the air you direct to your engine the better and you should leave the airbox sealed within the engine bay but direct cold air from outside into it as long as the box design is not overly restrictive. we need not enter the realms of ram-air affects and pulse tuning theory as that would just get a bit too deep and theres no way I'll be drawing up a 16v airbox and running it through star ccm+ or open foam as I have a much more interesting pint glass to deal with my personal opinion would be to remove the lamp and duct from the inner spotlight hole on the drivers side straight into the corner of the box. I'd also remove all the box innerds if possible so they dont cause undue turbulance within the air flow and seal off the cold start feed from the manifold + any other holes. then I'd invest in some heat reflective insulation and cover it up so it doesnt soak heat from the engine bay when standing still.
I`ve tried this ... worked fine - I did not seal against heat soak though. I ran the MFA air temp probe to the airbox inlet - heat soak whilst in stationary traffic saw 50`C but this soon dropped back to ambient whilst on the move again. I ended up reinstating the spotlight and removing the ducting - no noticeable difference in performance.
there'd be some racket of that pipercross airbox i reckon though on full chat! you'd only get heat soak when stationary, plenty of airflows through when on the move
i run a modified PB airbox with a SB (turbo diesel) top half and a K&N filter. the bottom half has had the trumpet removed and some holes drilled on the corner and side of the inner wing. I have left the hot air flap inside the box but it isnt connected so doesnt work, and it seals of the hot air feed. My intake temps on a run a rarely more than 5 degrees above the outside world, sat still the highest i have seen was on the RR when eddie was mapping it and it only reached 40 then. I doubt that the valves can swallow enough air for the airbox to be the restriction, and even with the better flowing 16v head it wont be the airbox acting as a restriction. and Gambit have a look at the vid. from this post http://www.clubgti.com/forum/showpost.php?p=1915446&postcount=267 i think mine was probably the noisiest of the day!
cheers guys just had a good read of toyotec's thread. lots of useful infomation. one question (probably a silly one) but are the bottom of the ABF air boxes similar inside to that of my k-jet box or would it need modding differently. i.e where to drill the holes etc. thanks
Bottom is similar, just make put holes anywhere you can in the bottom of the box and the side facing the wing so that any additional air coming in is as cool as possible/far away from the engine. There should be a square-ish shaped hole on the inside of the wing next to the airbox, if you can get the holes to line up with that then that would be perfect. The hole may be covered up by something, in which case remove it so air coming through the wing can come out of the hole. I think you're better off removing large sections rather than swiss-cheesing the box, less turbulance.
as i said build a home brewed heat shield around it and up touching the bonnet with a couple of air feed's should see some gain. i fitted mine on the 1.8 before i ripped it out with a std exhaust and you'r right the sound is sswwweeeeetttt when you'r giving it some bean's along the country road's.
For the same effect as a pipercross I cut the wing side and front out of the lower half of my airbox. Binned the snorkel and done away with the hot air flap too Sounds great now I have seen back to back tests at TSR with a stock airbox, then with the upper half uncoupled and propped up from the bottom. The car gained 3whp on their old RR. Well worth doing IMO, and gives a tweaked valver that distinctive voice
