Hi does anyone know a good review of setting up the timing on a 16v engine...... i have set mine up but not overly confident with my skills, i don't want to bend the valves when i fire it up soon. a decent descirption of the timing marks and where they are would be cool. Thanks Ro
amazing!! I thought there are plenty of people that do 9A swaps and MK1 16v conversions, so an FAQ thread would be sweet!!! oh and a good guide on judging the tightness of a cam belt would be nice
Take the rocker cover off to check the timing 100% as the marks for both cams are on the chain driven sprockets inside,when the cams are in the correct position the marks(dots)should face each other on the inside of the cams. If you know that the chain has never need changed or messed with you dont have too (if it was me i would check to be 100% sure) There is a timing marklineon the cam pulley(the one driven by the belt) which should line up with with a mark on the rover cover,these should be in the 12o'clock position. The same goes for the crank pulley there will be a line on the drive pulley for the alternator and waterpump which should line up with a arrow on the block(or backing plate to the cambelt cover) I think this is also at the 12 o'clock position. Once you have done it you can turn the engine over by hand to make sure that nothing hits. Mike
Ahh,that saved me typing.. Don't always take the mark on the crank pulley as gospel, the vibration damper can twist and give a false TDC mark. I get a long thin screw driver and check TDC on no1 piston, mark where the highest point is with tippex on the screwdriver shaft,rotate the engine in direction of rotation and you'll see the point where it neither goes up or down. You can use the flywheel marks but they're not the easiest to see, esp when the engine/box is in the car. Also when you tension the belt, make sure the crank doesn't turn round , putting the cam-crank timing 1-2 teeth out, the engine will be flat as a phart if this happens. Just to add, the inter-cam timing dots should be level (slightly below) the gasket face of the head, pointing towards each other. Edited by: GVK
awesome, yeah i changed the cams and cam chain and spent ages getting the fecking dots right!!! so i know they're ok but just nervous about starting it cos i don't want it to go bang!!
According to Vince at Stealth racing,yes they can. Go by the marks by all means, but it's best to check/confirm on the piston. Edited by: GVK
I had all mine apart last week after a certain vw specialist done the cambelt and found the crank was out by 12mm Lined it up by sticking a screwdriver down cylinder no.1 as mentioned, and then checked the dot on the flywheel was lining up, which it was and the line on the pulley lined up to the arrow on the cover. Once you've put the new belt on turn it over by hand a couple of times and re-check the tension, if it is hitting anything inside you should hear it when turning over. Pull the king lead off and turn it over on the starter if you want before starting up properly. Autodata guide
awesome, cheers for that opalii my brain works so much better with pictures!! I'll double check everything tonight and get ready for the grand start up on Sunday!! Ro
The white mark you can just see to the left of the dot in the pic is the slash for the 6 degree mark, i've put a bit of tippex on it so it's easier to see with the gun.
Good luck with the grand start up! I was nervous when I first started my DIY installed 6A engine too, sounded like a bag of spanners and plenty of smoke, funny smells from the paint setting on a warm block and all the rest. Expect some excess hydraulic tappet noise at first, should die down after a few mins though.
Good pic of the TDC marker Oplaii , can`t see mine with the rocco manifold on, had to make do with marking the cam sprocket which isn`t the best.. edit, for the ignition timing Edited by: KeithMac
