Track Day Suspension..

I got nn adj rear bar, it was worth it for me even if I may only have adjused it about twice ever.

 

Most coilovers offer damping and re-bound adjustment one one control. Most are at a 3:1 ratio i've found...

 

Does the extra weight of my VR6 have a huge effect on understeer or is it a non factor? If so, what is a good way of transfering the balance back? I thought about a battery relocation kit and maybe eventually pulling the AC out. (which would probebly be a bad idea considering I live in Georgia. it gets hotter then snot down here.)
Edited by: cooljoe289

 

The weight is better between the axles. If you have too much up front it's not always a good idea to move a load of extra weight into the boot.

 

I wonder if there is any way to somehow make a non-adjustable rear bar adjustable? It looks pretty simple from the pics on neuspeed.com. Have a look.
http://www.neuspeed.com/products/product_details.asp?app=28| G3&type=2&ltype=ns_euro&p_id=711

 

Soften the front, tighten the rear. You won't believe how much difference this makes.....

 

You will when you spin it..

 

Tell me about it!

 

I say again.
I wonder if there is any way to somehow make a non-adjustable rear bar adjustable? It looks pretty simple from the pics on neuspeed.com. Have a look.

http://www.neuspeed.com/products/product_details.asp?app=28| G3&type=2&ltype=ns_euro&p_id=711

 

It depends how bodgy (for you Will, McGiverish) you want to be about it. To stiffen a 'C' shaped ARB

All you have to do is shorten the length of the outer arm sections, this allows less leverage on the longer centre section making it harder to twist.

If you can bolt/weld/strap the shorter sections to the body, closer to the centre section of the ARB you've made it stiffer.

 

It seems to me that all you would need to do is flaten the ends and drill 3 holes just like the neuspeed one. Then it would just be a matter of ordering a hardware kit from neuspeed to make it right. right? Maybe I'm just cheap.?

 

That could well work Will but the trouble is as soon as you start to heat the bar you risk changing it's stiffness.

Unless you know someone with a serious press!

 

Drill holes and fit like this #3 http://www.seatcupra.net/forums/showthread.php?t=16423&highl ight=neuspeed+arb

This is a Golf2 fitment bar on a Polo4/Ibiza rear beam.

 

Hole no longer req'd for Ibiza... juts simple L shaped bracket. Ibiza/Polo specific tho as the rear shock mounts are on towers unlike MK2 Golf's

 

So where can I find the hardare? I was thinking of just calling neuspeed and buying new bushings and everything. I'm going to have to buy them anyway b/c I bought the bar used with no hardware.

 

Iwould really need something like this.

 

the fittings are basically just an adjustable rose-jointed rod - fairly straightforward thing



but if you can buy them off the shelf from Neuspeed for a sensible price then do that

 

Simon


since you are using a ryder base you should get a GTI rear beam - this allows rear disks (quite a good thing) but also has the inbuilt arb - you should then look for a set of eibach uprated arb's - front and rear (you will need the suspension *drop links* from the gti for fit the front eibach arb, but you won't need the original arb as the eibach one replaces it)


i can promise you that this mod is important - reducing front body roll on a golf is critical (as golden so perfectly explained) to preventing understeer


unless you're building a car with an engine like the Reeves' ones you won't be killing everything on the straights - but if you get the right suspension and brakes you don't need to - the skill is in the corners.

 

Brackets used to mount shown here http://www.seatcupra.net/forums/showthread.php?p=440063&post ed=1#post440063

 

Where can I find some rose joint rods sheaper than neuspeed?