Twin 40s less torque than DMTL?

Does it drive smoothly, and feel right?

 

But by not attempting these things yourself, you're missing out on one of the major advantages of a multicarb engine (I'm told).

That is, whenever the missus asks you to do something you don't fancy getting involved in you just have to say "Sorry, Hon, I gotta balance my carbs".

 

Aside from the knocking on the servo yes, except that flatspot which is noticeable.

I started this thread to find out if the reduced torque is normal or not, because if it's not that would indicate there's something wrong, even if it "feels" ok. Because in all fairness my sense of feel is awful.

Sadly I don't have one. How else do you think I'd be able to do this:

Although I'm probably more than ready to trade in for a human variant.

The only advantages of multi carbs for me are the noise and the fact it makes people crowd around my otherwise crappy and highly unremarkable yet classic car.

 

Why don't you try relocating the servo so you can get the trumpet issue sorted?

 

It won't solve the problem of fitting longer trumpets on all four. I'm having the front mount cut down about an inch I'll see what that does for clearance.

 

I don't think I ever got a definitive answer on this so I'll try again...

The DHLAs making less peak torque than a DMTL is not normal, right?

And the potential reasons are
1. Increased intake air temperature
2. Possibly unbalanced carbs (I still need to stick my head in between them and have a listen)

Are there any other suggestions?

 

poor jetting, restrictive filters, different mixture changing timing requirements, possible vacc leaks, badly maintained/blocked carbs etc.

 

What if no filters? That's not really going to hurt performance right? Until s**t gets sucked into the carbs

 

it will once it sucks in loads of dirt and grit and grinds the bores. but will be fine while on the rollers etc

 

How much dirt gets to the back of the bay though? Realistically...

 

Its not so much visible lumps of dirt, its dust in the air that does the damage.

 

Any thoughts as to socks vs pancake vs anything else?

 

Socks will kill the airflow, seen it on the rollers and on the flowbench. A ridged filter with a gap of 25-30mm from the end of the trumpets is what's needed, or an airbox and a remote filter... but it's all a bit tight for space.

 

And there are soooooo many reasons for the torque difference..... choke size, trumpet length, mixture strength, manifold bore size/shape..... the list is endless.

 

Is a ridged filter like one of the K&N pancake ones?

 

foam filter

airbox

 

Tried going down the airbox route. No where near enough space. ever.

Those pipercross ones better than pancakes?

 

Pipercross or ITG in that shape (commonly known as a 'sausage' filter) or the flat top type, as long as both have the standard type 25-30mm clearance between the end of the trumpet and the inside of the filter... the same applies to a K&N... all work well enough so you'd be splitting hairs really.

I've seen the inside of trumpets cleaner after use with K&N's over the foam type, unless the design used on the foam filters has changed in the last ten years.

 

Uhhhhh. So K&N > sausages in your experience. There's just a wee problem now, in that I've got a full set of curved trumpets[/url on the way and it seems like most filter solutions require some sort of baseplate mounted beneath the trumpets?

Is there anything else besides the socks that just go on top of the trumpets, as opposed to fitting under the base of them?

 

You could mount the baseplate directly under the flare of the trumpet, that way you'd only need a filter around 30-35mm deep.