Hello nerds Can i have some info on a vr6 lump as my mate has blown his 8v digifant in his mk2 and has the chance of getting a vr6 lump but how much work is involved and what does he need VibraTech front engine mount Custom downpipe maybe? How hard is this conversion? Fitting and wiring up? cheers
first things first... is it 90 spec with CE2 wiring? Once oyu know that, u know whether its worth doing for little work... after that if it is C" its pretty much plug and play, have a search around plenty of info about on the site tbh!
yup on the steering colum! Good stuff... right just search for info on here, tons of it...or speak to deako who did it recently..orrr veedubber i think it was...
deako has helped me loads so far. I'll help if i can, but i've already confessed to being mechanically retarded so i'm kind of making it up as i go along. Not too difficult so far though
Here is a very rough, quickly written guide i did ages ago. So don't shout me down in flames if it doesn't answer everything! For starters go to www.vwvortex.com site. they have a good forum with links and help there. Look in the hybrid swap forum and the 12v VR6 section. Also use www.futrellautowerks.com/...9clvr6.htm it tells you everything in a step by step guide. It might be done by an american, but it is still very helpfull, and gives you a good idea of what you want/need etc. You need a mk3/corrado/seat subframe to sit the VR6 and gearbox in. You can use either the VR6plus suspension set up-- with the VR wishbones etc, or just bolt on the mk2 wishbones. All mk3 VR stuff gives the car a wider track if used. The 2 set up are: 1. Mk3 subframe, with mk2 wishbones, 8v gti driveshafts and G60 brakes-- this lets you stay with a 4 stud wheel pattern with 280mm discs. 2. The "plus" suspension setup. Which is everything of the mk3, the subframe, ARB, Wishbones, suspension, Drives shafts, VR brakes. It makes the track of the car slightly wider, and meas you have to use a 5 stud wheel, using 288mm discs. Both 8v and 16v fuel pumps are fine--- the fueling system is sufficient without having to change it. Also when it comes to the wiring it is made 3 times easier if you run a 90spec mk2-- central electric--- You have this if you have your hazard light on the steering rack and not the dash. For the clutch you can either use the hydraulic clutch system. This needs you to change the pedal box-- use from a passat or corrado (they are the same, its cheaper to get one out of the passat from a scrapyard than it is a corrado!!). This involves slight flattening of a small part of the bulkhead to get that to fit. Or you can use a seat ibiza clutch mechanism-- cable operated, that bolts straight to the gearbox then to the pedal box. Also the driver side chasis leg needs a slight dent to help clear the big phemonic balancer wheel on the VR. You can use the VR corrado radiator-- which looks neater, or the transporter radiator. The VR expansion tank is needed. don't use any of the mk2 stuff for the coolant. Do it properly the first time round If you are using a newer style VR engine-- you need the keys, as they have a built in immobiliser system that works with the ECU-- its not to complicated to fit-- and worth it in the end-- safety issues!!! You want a VR6 decat pipe also, the cat slows you down-- and you need to still be running the lambda sensor. All original gti aftermarket exhaust systems will still mate to the engine no problem. My VR was mated up to my jetex from the decat pipe without any problems Power steering is needed to- as its one heavy lump-- without it can make driving the car at low speeds very hard. You want atleast 15" wheels so the 280mm brakes will fit under them. And once the VR is in-- sort the handling out properly with a full set of polybushes through out the car, uprated ARB's and strutbraces-- and a good suspension kit with uprated strut top mounts. Suspension ideally wants to be some good coilovers with atleast VR6 mk3 or corrado weight springs in them to take the extra wait. Heavier poundage spring can be made up for not a lot of money by quite a few companies-- it all depends on how stiff you want it. Also an uprated front Engine mount is needed idealy, as the torque form the engine will cause it to rock and hit the bonnet if the mount isn't strong enough. Vibratechnics make one especially for the mk2 VR6 conversion. In all honesty-- if you do your research-- read up on it well, and are fairly competant at mechanics etc then do the conversion yourself. When you get down to it, its isn't the hardest thing to do. And it will save you a 1000--1500 if done yourself if non of this makes sense-- its because i have just got up, and haven't reread through it-- so oops (just incase) ENGINE info You can get either AAA is 2792cc, ABV is 2861cc the ABV has a different intake manifold and throttle body, different ECU mat, altho the ECU's are the same, it also has an 82mm bore as opposed to the 81mm of the 2.8 The engine number can be found on the right hand back corner as u look at the engine.
Right i got on the phone ot a guy i no who does conversions n basically i think he filled me full of pooe as i have been told by you lot on here and other people it will go straight in he told me i shud seam weld bay n stuff every inch get a jumper harness princess 4 pot brakes stainless exhaust tunnel subframes g60 mounts summat to do with driveshafts aswell basically he said i have to reinforce my shell and bay and get engine as far back in bay as possible but i dont believe him so i think me n few m8s are gonna have a crack at it
right folks ive started this conversion got the engine sat at home just changed the bushes to poly ones put my arms in the vr frame but i cant seem to bolt it up to the car now? bolts seem to short do i need longer ones or summat
lol just someone trying to get money out of me but anyway about these bolts lol do i need longer ones i can bolt front of subframe up but not the rear any1 got ictures and sizes of these bolts to make sure i am using the correct ones
the are the same....i can look on etka for the correct sizes, but not till later, are you using the longer bolts in the front of the subframe or rear?
longer at rear when i put the bolt through the bush to start screweing in they is hardly nothing there to go into the body short at front
sorted it out now metal was bit out of shape when i was puttin arms in all straight now and bolted up
another question lol does the vr steering rack fit ok as i broke gti one i think and whats the grip like when finished i been told it will wheelspin quite a bit
