I unplugged various to see what happened MAF Water temp sensor on thermostat housing Hall Sender Throttle position The solenoid valve could be one of the plugs around the MAF/Throttle area? If so, I did a few randoms there to see if it made any difference lol I didnt touch the knock sensor. I've been driving the VR everywhere since Nav sorting it. So we'll plug in Vagcom again shortly to see if any fault codes have reappeared. Yeh, the problem with Honda drivers is... they never have problems with their cars - they just work! And if they do have a problem, Honda UK bend over backwards to fix em for free (or at a very good price!). My lil old civic has towed a few VW's home after they broke down! The Accord hasnt had the joy of towing, but has not ever refused to start or get me home - even when it had issues (just resulting in poor performance)! I love the VR, mk2 and my old Mk1, but dont you dare pick on my love for Hondas!
Your Honda almost ate itself to death! Your civic was good but the Accord? Saying that most modern cars seem fairly fluffy when it comes to reliability. Gurds
Your giving the Accord a hard time - the main issue was the dealer' mechanics were crusty turds. Once I got the Honda UK Master Techs involved, it was solved relatively quickly. If you remember, they couldnt figure out what was wrong - Im not sure what the mechanics were doing to be honest. The only issues Ive had with that car are: User error - dropping a plastic pipe into the sump lol EGR valve - due to driving style at the time. Replaced FREE (I was jammy, usually 500 job). 2nd time around it was cleaned out for FREE by Honda. Car is running great now Im not cruising to Portsmouth every day. Exhaust Manifold crack - known issue on early cars, replaced for FREE without quibble. Noisey timing chain - so chain, tensioners + diesel injectors all replaced for FREE with no quibble at 110k miles. Turbo failure - bearings worn down by 115k miles, car still worked. New unit supplied and fitted for 558 (normal rrp 1500 + labour + vat = rrp supplied/fitted 2366) You have to remember - I was driving to Pompey and back every day, and at no point did the car refuse to drive... thats 42k miles a year, car getting serviced 3 times a year. The first 6 months I spent driving like a granny, hence the EGR valve clogged up. Then I was pushing the car pretty damn hard every day in both directions (I lost patience with cruising at 60mph for 4 hours a day). All the issues happened at over 100k miles, I bought the car with only 43k on the clock. The Accord is running sweet - almost at 120k miles. Original clutch, suspension, bushes, engine mounts, sensors, gearbox, fuel pump, only on my 2nd set of tyres - still got plenty of tread to go! Only thing I curse Honda for, is the poor paint quality. Applied too thin, its too soft and I dont think they galvanise the cars. Anyhow! Enough on my trusty Donkey, the Accord.. The VR is running sweet, but the list of jobs remain. Next jobs that need doing - front engine mount, rear brakes + bearings, rear axle bushes, sort out the rust patches, rocker cover gasket, chains + clutch. Slowly but surely.
Right - so the VR got some heavy use from the 24th to 27th August... and last week I took my Accord to work so the VR slept in the garage. So - on Saturday I took it for a drive. Drove to a party.. and back. On Sunday morning, start the car up.. all good, idling nice. 10 seconds later the engine cuts out. I can start the car and rev it etc, sounds/runs normal etc.. but it will not idle on its own, so I have to keep my foot on the gas. Im going to nick Nav' vagcom lead and also replace the vacume hose to the fuel pressure regulator (front right of the inlet manifold), as the original one appears to have perished. I can give the MAF another clean, but I cant see how it would have got dirty again since the last clean 3 weeks ago... Any other ideas?
Replaced the perished vacuum hose - made no difference to the idle. Cleaned out the throttle body - all sorted.
I hoping the low CRs were due to the bores being fuel washed when the cylinder was not firing. If it does let go, then I'll either rebuild it or drop a 24v in.
