Glad you got it out mate I cant give up now as ive totally restored everything on the MK2. This is the only thing holding it back. [:^(]
The heat generated by welding will burn off the rust that is causing the bolt to be seized. Am I going to have to post down one of my welding grannies? You do realise this whole episode is tainting my already poor impression of the whole of cockney land / eel muncher territory! Good to know that all those city slickers who cannot run banks, are no good at anything else either. Reckon it is time to start leaving my tap running till London floods.
Oi none of this on here Dan... I have relatives who live in Scotland btw, lovely place. It is full of scum down here now though(London). And dont get me started on the bankers. London wasn't that bad, the only problem is all the good people have been driven out. Glad i dont live there anymore tbh. Im now out in the sticks in Herts but im there everyday for work. Back on topic - Yea send down a granny to weld it up for me, or if you want pop down one weekend. You'll love it!!!
http://www.clubgti.com/forum/showthread.php?t=193139&highlight=captive Just found this thread posted by R.J. Should be helpful
While it's sat doing nothing I'd be inclined to repeatedly drown it in penetrating oil - get some WD40 with the red straw attachment so you can get right in there And as Danster says, plug weld a nut onto the end. If that still won't budge, perhaps get an Oxy-acetylene torch on it, since the little pocket torches don't really generate much heat. Cutting the floor would be an absolute last resort tbh - think of all the welding required to get it back to a decent state again
I know. I must have used a whole small can of WD40 on it, and heated the bolt till it was glowing red, but i just doesn't want to budge. I'll get a close up picture of it on the weekend and post it up. It looks bent to me. Not sure how it broke off though tbh. A year or so ago when it was my daily, i noticed a clucking sound, looked under and noticed the bolt had snapped clean off.
You could try a new southern cockney eel muncher method to removing the seized bolt. Take loads of pictures of it and hopefully the camera's flash will miraculously emit uber rays that will cause the metallurgy of the broken bolt to liquify in a T2 stylee, resulting in it dribbling out by itself. It is a long shot I know, but it might just work.
I know i know. I really do appreciate all the help and info on here. Its just ive been using everything to hand first, as i haven't got the spare cash to call out a mobile welder. If i had loads of spare cash i'd of had it done by now, but i haven't unfortunately.
Plug welding a nut on is a great solution. But: If you can get access to drill a hole up the centre of what is left of the bolt, then when you plug weld, the hole will allow the whole mass of maerial to breath, from the welding heat. Thus breaking the rust joint. I'd drill the hole, then Heat & Cool, a few times, before welding on the nut! WD40 is not the answer! Plus-Gaz, or similar 'penetrating fluid', is the thing to use.
See here for payment details. http://www.clubgti.com/forum/showthread.php?t=220150&highlight=pimp+sister
when all else fails have a beer i find once the brain has been lubricated the solution can be found if that fails get medieval on it with a hammer it's the engineers number one tool of choice i think i would drill it out start with a small drill and work you up till only a shell is left then pick out what is left and tap out the hole
x2 No matter what happens now you'll need a welder,either to weld a nut on (saving the floor) or to weld "said floor" back up I had this problem a few years ago,i cut the floor and cut the bolt head to a better head shape & got it out after a very long time If yours has snapped twice then its propper stuck and will need heavy tactics
