Whats harder/more time consuming.....

a) transplanting an ABF engine and gearbox from one Mk3 to another... or

b) swapping heads, redoing cambelt, taking flywheel and clutch from one to the other...


no idea which of these is the most complicated/time consuming/expensive as i have never done either.

a) means i can still keep my strong 133k engine intact but b) means i can have a 71k block and gearbox...albeit of unknown quality.... hmmm

 

Full swap would be far easier, since it`s really `just` some bolts, hoses, and plugs to be removed/refitted...

Swapping parts will require new gaskets, nuts, bolts, etc, which if don`t have them beforehand will extend the job (time wise) significantly.

 

hmm... cheers

thats what i thought. think that the fact that one is 71k might mean i change the head though. means when i sell its pretty much still a 71k car rather than one with a 133k engine.

will give it a shot.... how long would it take for a first timer to do a head swap and cambelt change... as well change the flywheel and clutch? i have got around 5 days.

got to swap the shocks/springs around in that time too..

regarding ECU's... if they are different can i run my BE coded ECU and on another engine if its ECU code is different? Its 1 year older than mine... but want to keep my chipped one.


cheers

 

Errr...just swapping the head won`t make it a 71k engine...

It`ll just be a 133k head on a 71k block...


Simplest solution, if your doing the suspension as well, would be to drop the subframe, with the engine/box/hubs/uprights all still attached and swap it into the other car.

Should only take a day really (or maybe two for a first timer), then the swapping the rear shocks is only an hour or so.

 

agree with stu, do the whole front engine/chassis/subframe swap for your one, you could keep all the other stuff and stick it in a mk2 or sell it for a good chunk to someone who wants to put it in a mk2, its the cheapest thing to do and gives you the best asset to sell. If your saying you have 5 full days like 50hrs you will do it easy, could all be done in a day but that depends what tools and kit you have.

 

You can keep the same ECU, especially as it'll be coded to the immobiliser.

Just swap the subframe/engine and plug everything back in.

 

thanks chaps

i realised about the head but i was being ignorant so if i ever sold the car i got to say that the majority is still 71k

taking the sub frame also means i get to keep all my polybushes too....

im guessing that the lock carrier needs to come off to slide everything out? or can i lift it out the top using a tractor and loader

any specialist tools/parts required?

cheers

 

I was thinking you had your old car polybushed so defiantly the way to go, if you can undo everything, possibly take the front off the cars then lift the cars up with a tractor and roll the shell back, dont even think you need to take the front wheels off!

 

going to give this a go tomorrow or wednesday. few q's

1)does the air con pump attach directly to the block?... car im putting it onto has aircon but my engine doesn't. is it then just a case of a different belt?

2) is it worth replacing engine mounts at the same time

3) anything else i should bear in mind?

 

err... sorry chaps. change of plans.

decided I actually want to keep the bottom end... keep all the engine numbers matching up etc.

Basically im just going to swap heads with new belt and tensioner.
going to send the head via the chap who did my flywheel for new valve guides, stem seals and a P+P job

Basically Im in a situation where I got 1500 for the old car, and brought the new one for 200, so i have effectively got a budget of 1300 and will still not be a penny down.

my thinking is that it would be stupid not to have the work done on the head while it is off... and improve its longetivity to.

The remainer of the budget and from selling parts would cover a custom remap, and a general tidyup and service and the new belt/tensioner/gasket...