Looking for some opinions on which block to run. Am currently building a 16v rado for hillclimbing an maybe vag trophy. So far have had one disaster to another whistle building an engine. Mostly stemming from a bad buy of a supposedly sorted 9a from an ed38 member. I have now found compression issues have come from duff rings in the 9a block. Am running an 027 potted and polished head on a set of shricks with a rowland manifold and 45's. I am looking to raise the rev limiter and will be running a Cda 02a with a 4.2 final drive. Now comes the tough bit, I am running on a really tight budget and will have to do the rings and probably ends and mains on the 9a just for peace of mind I may also have the crank lightened and balanced. But lying in the garage I also have a smoky abf lump and a kr that has been sat for avoid while. My question is, what is the best combo I can possibly build out of this lot for maximum power, ie: Bore the kr out to 2l, obtain a diesel crank and use it in any one of the kr 9a or abf etc. I do not have the funds for widener or je pistons, so I need to get maximum compression (useable) without having the engine overstroked. The 9a seems the safest option as it's the only one I have turned over and made sure isn't totally dead. Sorry for the massive intro but I have tried to give as much info as possible. Oh and before danster has his two pence, reducing the number of valves is not a consideration, the head is done haha!!!!
2 pence worth. Stop buying crud engines and wasting your time. By the time you get the car going you will be so old, you should fit a 1300 8v FTW!
I didn't plan to have to rebuild it! Thought the car would be ready for this season! The class is up two litres but I don't think I'll be winning so being a simdge over I should get investigated!!
ABF block was never fitted to a Corrado aka fat Scirocco. KR and 9A were though, so if regs require oem block usage then this is an option. I believe the mods to your car put it in the Formula Libre class so this may not be an issue. Got loads of options here. How does 20v on carbs sound?
In the mod prods so as long as Volkswagen made it and it's not turbo'd (sorry for swearing) then it's fine. Danny, if you want to swap a kr a 9a and an abf both with ported heads and cams for a ready built 20v screamer that'll fit my 02a box then I am very temped. Still got a scirocco here with your name on it that'll be going to car heaven if Someone doesn't buy it soon!!!
Hmm, bit busy now but give me a call. You could keep your carbs and run the 20v on them as we have the manifold for that.
Haha right point made, take note clubgti, I you want danster to do something for you or buy votes, offer him a tatty mk2 scirocco and your there, bear in mind these anorexic corrados are tupence now, you no longer have to commit your sister or mother to a highland romp when you are in need of info on that aluminium block that might exist!!!! Back to the topic tho, will give you a call tonight dan, have a list of options ready and I'll compile a list of "16v bits dan can have to deprive the other valves fans from having them, and in turn strengthen the 8v following". Not very catchy but I'll work on it. So what's everyone else doing for valver race stuff then??
It might help if you advertised the 'Rocco, if you want rid - I haven't seen any ads, and I know someone who's looking for a 'Rocco to go racing in. Why don't you put the 9A in the Rocco. It'll go faster, and the scrappy will give you more for the big fat 'Rado. I think you'd be fine with any of the 16v blocks for VAG trophy regs, but it might mean an unfavourable hillclimb class.
Because the rest of the rado is done, caged stripped big brakes etc, the rocco was a barn find. Have had it ed38 and eBay but not on here yet. It's no minter but a one owner gtx that's been sat for a while. As I said I'm already in an unfavourable class so it's all about getting the best 2l from what I've got. Trying to finish the project I've got no start another one haha!!!
if you have a diseasel crank then 9a pistons could give you some cheap high compression, but would need a dry build and fettling.
The only source for a diesel crank is getting one removed from a good diesel engine (or buying new). This means you are left with a scrap diesel engine, never mind the time spent stripping the engine to remove the crank. And just because the diesel engine is a good runner does not guarantee the crank will be 100%. I would be reluctant to strip the diesel engines I have that run fine, to find a marked journal meaning the crank is in need of work prior to fitting in petrol block. You can of course buy the whole diesel engine though. Why not just get a decent 2.0 bottom end (6A, 9A, ACE, ABF) and put your head and cams on that? I would think if you weighed in all the crud engines you have collected, it would just about cover a decent 2.0 bottom end.
The 9a I have is pretty good, but was going to donearing for peice of mind. Really it's between the abf and 9a bottom ends and which has the better characteristics to work on. I will lighten and Balance the crank to my lightened flywheel to allow it all to rev more freely. I guess the question is which will accept high revs better if either is even different enough to provide an advantage. The only reason for a diesel crank I guess would be to get a better capacity, but as I said I imagine this would overstroke a bored kr and thus do away with any mechanical advantage the extra capacity would give!
It'll be ok until you start winning - do check the rules first. Line up a KR, 9A or ABF and they're all different. If you get protested, you'll be out on your ear for cheating, and your only hope of dodging the bullet is sheepishly finding a Corrado somewhere obscure around the world made with an ABF. So on that basis, for ease of getting up to 2.0 class capacity, choose a 9A. Some 6A blocks are identical apart from the 6A/9A code stamp - see 053 103 012 G designations on here. 6A therefore is arguably useable. Reminder for the 6A pics Danny
Either engine, tall or short block will work fine at the levels you are aiming for. This has been discussed many times on here and no real winner either way. Long rod ABF gives better conrod angle, but RobT's short block produces the goods too. No definitive winner in the realms of what we play around with TBH. Now, ABF or 6A multivalve engines are a plenty, at least in "the shed". Some people say that anyone who enters gets turned into an engine block and never leaves!
Absolutlely! It is just unfortunate for the owners of good cars that they can get whipped by a shed. Admittedly, I was younger then, and it had an 8v fitted. Come to think of it, I am sure there is still a 6A with shricks lying around somewhere. Cheque book ready Monsier Ginger! Or pics of your Mama!
Hmmm how's about it's then Danny, I beleive you have a good 6a with far to many valves for you, and o can supplement you with tall blocks and old sciroccos haha. Even a have a 20v with a cough turbo cough cough that could be used to power your undervalved lawnmower.
Liking your banter Ginger. Stick around these parts for more of the same Don't forget to exercise your vote on this thread btw
So how on earth have you got 3 dead 16v engines if they are so good? Having a go at my lawnmower with it's 2 (sidevalve at that), is a bit rich coming from a geezer that has 36 valves that cannot function correctly.
