hi, anyone know what tank i need for my mk2? as it was a cl with mechanical fuel pump. do i need to change it or can i fit an aftermarket pump? cheers
I kept the original tank and used a digi lift pump and main pump. Im going to swap the main pump for a kjet one though !
go for the early vr 4bar pump, gives the best headroom for future mods. the alternative is mod a mk4 pump to fit mk3 tank, but not 100% on how that is done. the kjet pump is the best spec you can get really without going for a bosch 44 as its 5 bar as standard and loads of flow!
yah the 3bar 8v/16v and late vr6 pump is fine for a 20v, its only if you go mega spec later on down the line you need the 4bar
great help people, cheers can i not keep my tank and rig up a 16v/vr pump to that somehow? or are the tanks diffrent? excuse my stupidty!!
The Mk3 setup is almost entirely contained within the tank with the knock on effect of a much bigger diameter hole in the top. Only the fuel filter remains underneath. I've read that you need to shave the retaining ring down in a Mk3 tank to fit a Mk4 pump, but it can't be easy as it's plastic with brass studs without getting into the sender compatibility.
Sounds a bit crude but I used a hacksaw blade with tape as a handle to remove the pump bracket inside the tanklol,took a little while but it worked,then just flushed the tank out thoroughly with the hose to remove the bits of plastic,then left the tank standing on the neck to drain/dry for a few days
Provided there's nothing on the inside of a Mk4 tank I guess that's it then. Remove it all because the Mk4 pump is retained by the lid and a beefed up leg on the sender. How about the fuel gauge? Or are you running Mk4 clocks. I cleaned mine out through the hole because of the anti siphon in the neck.
I just shoved a bit o welding rod in the neck to hold the flap open to drain!,ah now as for the fuel guage......,I'm sure in the not too distant il be on here crying for help on that!lol,not got to that,maybe we can help each other if one does it before the other!,that's on my huge to do list!
I've put the Mk3 pump and sender in now the Mk2 gauge sort of works which is an improvement over the pump that came with the tank and lines (plus 12 litres of old fuel which probably sent it on its way again). I can't really test it out across the range until I get an MOT on it again. I'm in the wrong section really, but I just thought I'd post the Mk3 tank in a Mk2 info.
I've used a mk3 tank and mk4 pump. As said, you have to remove the bracket at the bottom of the tank to get the mk4 item to fit. I cut off a section of loom with the connector on the end so hopefully going to utilise that somehow for the level sender. You also want mk4 fuel lines as these have the 90degree elbow on them to keep the lines under the lid as the mk3 ones wont fit underneath.
There's no problem with Mk3 lines on a Mk3 pump lots of clearance on mine as pictured above. I don't know if Mk4 lines makes it easier in the engine bay as I still have the Mk2 rubber hoses and PB engine in there. For the loom Mk3 to Mk2 is quite easy if you have a tool to pluck out the JPT terminals from the smaller Mk2 connector and a couple of Wago 222-413 to replace the old 2 pole white connector. I was going to get some of the 2 pole versions 222-412, but it came in handy to be able to clamp the prongs of a test meter into the spare ports whilst I turned the key. I have to say when changing the hard lines underneath I'd recommend using a pair of flexible wallpaper type scrapers to slide down the sides of the pipe on each clip (preferably smoothed on the ends like well used ones) for both getting the old lines out and new ones in. The old pipe clips are pretty brittle by now.
On the mk3 pump, the lines come off at 90degrees from the pump itself, on mk4 units, the outlets come out vertically meaning you need the mk4 lines too. Think basically you will just need the lines matched to the pump, looking at your picture, neither lines will fit vice-versa
I've got a spare (as you do!) mk3 tank if you're thinking of going in that direction. PM me if you do want it?
It's not that tidy looking, but you can use rubber pipe and clips on the Mk4 pump elbows. The sender will allegedly read backwards on Mk2/3 clusters. Mk3 sender on Mk2 gauge seems fairly accurate at the low end so far, but I forgot how comedy the gauge is when the car is in motion. It's been a looong time.