I'm looking for a good general purpose threadlock for use on and about the engine - long story but I'm sick of timing belt tensioner bolts undoing themselves Looking at the loctite website there's about 100 different types to choose from. I did pick up a stick of 248 from halfrauds the other day, but on retrospective thinking I'm wondering if it's the right stuff - 270 looks better. Any thoughts? what does everyone else use?
270 (green) is semi-permanent (fairly high-temp) used for fasteners that your not really going to undo all that frequently. And if you over-do it with the application, it can be a real PITA to undo. 243 (blue) is more general-purpose,mdesigned for fasteners that are undone fairly frequently, but is more than upto the job of most semi-permanent engine-related stuff. There's a thread on here somewhere with a fairly comprehensive list/guide to the most commonly used thread lockers. Remember, application of thread lock affects the torque setting required too, and some require pre-application of an "activator" too, otherwise they don't work as well. Hope that helps.
eh? Is that a brand, or a sly reference to a blob of weld on a stud? If it's the latter then it's a no-go for me as the tensioner is fitted on a bolt, not a stud..
Sorry - facetious welding reference lol I've got a couple of bottles in the garage which I'll get details from- Threadlock for things I want to remove and Studlock for semi-permanent installation
I've been using: Truloc Superloc 375 (also labelled as Nutlock 375) for parts I want to remove Truloc Superloc 360 Stud Grade for parts I want to be semi-permanent
What do people use, if anything, on brake hoses? I know the taper thread should provide the seal, but i'm doing my brakes over winter and would like everything leak free
I'd never use any kind of threadlock on brake hoses I tighten up the fitting so it's barely more than finger tight, then get someone to stick both feet on the brake pedal and stick their weight on it. The keep gently nipping the joint up until there's no more moisture coming out (keep wiping the union) and then a little nip more. Much too easy to overtighten them and if you ever loosen and tighten again (remove, refit) you tend to have to do them up tighter the next time to get them to seal. So doing them up too tight the first time is bad news.
+1 for never use on brake hoses. For the timing belt query, I would be tempted with a little bit if Stud lock (270), implicitly being designed to keep studs embedded without coming undone easily. It is aggressive, but on an M8 upwards, it should be able to take it. 243 I find a bit lame, particularly considering what's at stake. Once other brands are considered, it all gets confusing. Previous detailed Loctite thread here
Just to qualify my recommendation of it; at my place of work it is the thread lock of choice (by the design engineers) for everything from M8/25Nm to M20/425Nm including main engine coupling/flywheel bolts (8x M10/40Nm for a 60kg mass rotating at 2100rpm max) and believe me, it can grip like a b*tch!
Well from my experience, it's not got reassuring grip, and cracks open with ease. I don't trust it on bolts I can't get easy access to look at and check. I use 270 on M8 Allens with Schnorr washers on my basket flywheel cover for eg.
