Spent some hours trying to undo a lot of the bodgery on my KR powered rally car. Ive found a good few plugs not connected so i'm thinking these could be why it runs like a bag of **** Its also hard to start and wont rev First 2 are these, i would think they go to something on the Kjet or airbox but i cant see anywhere to take them Next is on the rad, this looks an absolute disaster zone and im going to have to redo it all. the rad has this large sensor in the bottom and wires coming off in 2 directions with 3 plugs. I also have 3 pin plugs on either side just behind the headlights. I know my fog lights are not these so i''m stumped as to why they are there. And finally i know its not a wire but there are 2 vacuum pipes coming off the main one. One goes to the ECU and the other is blanked off. Any ideas?
1. brown/black and yellow/black = over-run cutoff valve, white and black = cold throttle enrichment valve 2. red and brown is live and earth to fan. should be matchign plug on lighting loom somewhere. need to untape it all till you find. coudl run to battery with inline fuse to at least get it working. the red/white is rad fan after-run and often not used, for a start this fan loom is not original to the car as 16vhave 2 speed fan/switch. dont worry though 2 speed unit is pefectly fine ive run one on both kr and abf no problems 3. 3 pin is headlight range control motor, dont worry about those. 2 pin yellow and yellow/black is for dimdip, disconnect and bin the resistor before it shorts and sets fire to headlight switch loom! 4. the extra vac piep would have fed the 2 valves in pic 1, also the airbox warm air feed
Thanks Jonny, very impressed!!!! Will any of this damage performance? Not bothered about the fan. There's a switch inside the car for that
the over-run valve is there to catch the revs if you lift off at high rpm, if you dont have a problem with the revs dropping too fast then no worries. the cold throttle valve is there to trigger 5th injector to add a bit of fuel if you boot it cold, earlier kjet didnt use it and really you shouldnt be booting it till warmed up anyway. it doesnt work for long though as the thermoswitch cuts out the 5th injector pretty early on anyway. just spotted the 5th injector plug tucked away near the gearbox, this means your colds starts may be a bit tricky. also noticed the blue alternator trigger wire is plugged into the starter motor where the 5th injector wire should go so your alternator wont be charging properly, this needs to go into the blue wire with male spade coming out near the main live to the fusebox (taped in with the starter motor chunky live with red tape) I would want to have that red tape off regardless as normally tape over wires covers bodgery in my experience
Jonny you are officially a guru! The car is horrendous to start and had a flat battery last weekend. Was going to put it in to a place to sort it out but I'll rip out all the tape and find what's lurking. Rally scrutineers are very alert when it comes to fire hazards so I want the car to be perfect before it goes anywhere
its a bit of a mess to be sure! some peopel should really stay away from anythign to do with wiring have a look at the black and green/white wires to the side of the head area, looking at one of the pics they look liek they may be chopped and taped up but I cant really see. these should go to the 5th injector in the inlet for your cold start, plus look for red/black and green/white wires these should run to the big brown 5th injector thermoswitch on the side of the head towards the back. For the wire runs you should have 2 black wires from starter pin 15a, one runs to the 5th injector the other runs to the cold throttle valve. then the green/white wire from 5th injector should run to the thermoswitch on the head. the red/black wire on thermoswitch should be live when starter is cranking, worst case you could use 15a on starter again but it should go to fusebox. the WUR on the side of the head should have a fuel pump live red/white, plus a brown which is earth. over-run cutoff should have ignition live to the yel/black, brown/black is switched earth from isv control unit. the idle switch should have 3 wires, a white to the cold throttle valve a black which is ignition live and a yellow/black which goes to the ECU and ISV control unit. the white wire should be live when throttle is open, and the yellow/black should be live throttle closed. Note the haynes manual has the pins wrong in the 16v section! the isv should buzz with the ignition, check the 3 coolant temp sensors in the head 1 is for the ecu (blue/white) one for isv controller (green/red) and last one is dash (red/yellow) think that about covers it, if you need a wiring diagram i have them in my sig, g2krecuce1 or ce2.pdf depending what spec your fusebox is.
