working k-jet 8v fuel distributor upgraded to 16v fuel distributor >>> now Running!

Hi folks.....

my trusty 1800 8v has been running too lean with 2E bottom end, branch, cam, head work etc so installed a 16v fuel distributor & WUR to up the fueling as it was still pinking with the timing backed off while under load.

Everything was working well (starts first turn of the key even if it has been sitting for 6 months...) until the 16v fuel distributor was installed - now it will not even turn over!

I have a fully charged new battery turning the motor over, but it just does not spark. I guess I could go through the motions - check fuel is getting through to the injectors, but thought I'd ask here first.

Could the 16v fuel distributor be faulty, are there any warning signs?
Purchased off eBay.....

Thanx

 

Well if there is no spark then the fuel won't burn anyway. And if it won't turn over it is not going to matter if there is a spark or fuel.

Talk to me.

 

Establishing if anyone experienced similar problems - telepathic or otherwise...

 

Does the engine turn over on the starter?

 

Yep engine swings & almost fires, while the exhaust has a petrol odour.

Famous last words..... "everything was fine before" car was running fine.

Could an air leak in the vacuum pipes be significant enough to stop it from firing up?

 

An air leak depending on size will not help for sure.
Have you tried removing the main coil HT lead from the dizzy cap and holding it near the engine (8mm or so) whilst the engine is cranked? This should give a good strong consistent bluish spark. If it does not then check ignition wiring and connector to the dizzy have good and un-corroded contacts.
If this is fine then check the spark plugs are dry and not sooty, as this can reduce spark quality to the point the engine won't run. It is common for this to be a problem on a car that is only started in a garage every now and then, because the engine never gets properly hot to clean the plugs.
Once you have checked this then maybe it is worth pulling an injector to check for fuel flow by linking out the fuel pump relay and lifting the metering head flap. It is worth doing this on all the injectors to check spray pattern and volume being injected.
There is a guide on this somewhere on here.

 

Thanks for the replies so far - know the sequence for testing the injectors. Will check sparks too due to low mileage.

I have just installed this 16v metering head & never run before. I assumed it was working as the previous ebay owner stated it was from a running vehicle. Now I'm having my doubts.

My fueling was fine, though too lean with the 8v metering head. On a previous engine rebuild on first swing the engine was running on only two cylinders due to old blocked injectors. Now it seems like only one cylinder is firing, which I will verify by pulling the injectors & testing them.

I reckon the metering head could be a dud :-(

 

You can view a clip of the action for all those mere mortals without telepathic skills...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZS7cPEPaj3E

 

TBH I don't understand why you have changed the metering head as the 8V one should be fine when set up correctly

By correctly I mean by adjusting fuel system main and control pressures. It may be as simple a problem as the CO adjustment being out on the 16V metering head for your engine, but with out getting it started and getting it on an emmisions tester you will never know this.

Personally I would re-fit the 8V unit and get hold of the necessary pressure testing kit and a 16v WUR (which can be adjusted to regulate control pressure) so that you can get your fuel pressure correct.

Tim

Just as a guide I have a std 8V metering head and 16V WUR on my 8V which is a GTI Engineering RE1900 producing 140+bhp and have no issues with fuelling at all

 

It was recommended I upgrade to a 16v metering head to increase fueling with all the modifications. A 16v WUR is installed but not adjusted from standard as I unfortunately do not have the necessary equipment to adjust the k-jet system.

Interesting your fueling is fine with just the WUR mod...

 

switch back to the 8v fuel dizzy, theyre good for up to 200bhp ish.. so should suit you fine!

 

Done this years ago ( when I did not know better).
When you install the 16v WUR the metering flap pivot will need adjusting to get the engine to start.
There will also be differences between cold running and warm running vs the old 8v WUR.

 

I'd put the 8v metering head back, but leave the 16v WUR on the car, as already implied by a few folks.

 

Seems the16v fuel dizzy is a dud with the control plunger sticking, so fuel was only coming through one injector!.

Added a few pics.....



8V vs 16V



The control plunger which is slightly marked creating resistance moving up & down in the fuel dizzy.

 

Bolted everything back together & engine started on second turn after adjusting the idle mixture. Had a slight hesitation under acceleration on two occasions, but apart from a quirt of petrol in the left eyeball when adjusting the fuel dizzy everything worked out well.

Removed the ridges on the center section of the control plunger with some fine sandpaper & popped it back in with some petrol to lubricate it. I used a silicon based grease initially on the pivot on the airflow sensor but restricted the movement slightly, so changed to an oil lubricant which allowed the sensor plate to move freely.

(The air metering plate & metering arm counter weight bolts were installed using Loctite.)

The pinking does sound like it has stopped, but I will only know when I drive it on a hot day how much of an improvement the changes have made.

Just have to get it to a garage to fine tune the fuel/ air ratio.

Found k-jet info on VintageWaterCooleds and k-jet.org

Thanx for the input everyone!