have did a engine conversion on my car to 1.8 kr 1987 does the wur need wired up if so what does it do and how does it get wired to the same with the cold start 5 injectior do i need these wired up as i dont want to kill the new engine my car was a carb to start with i have the basic wiring on to run it
if u've swapped engines to 1800 KR, and your useing K-jet to fuel it then yes you will defo need those bits, the car wont run properly with out the wur reg , you need the KR ecu, and engine loom, then connect it all up , i take it you have all the KR inlet manifolds, top half and bottom halfs, the cold start valve plug on the end of the inlet manifold,and connects to a blue connector on the wiring loom. The wur reg fits on the side of the head with to long allen key bolts, brown connector plug for that. Plus i take it you have everything else , termotime switch,metering head,temp senders,ect etc
mk1 16v these where the looms i got the last one is the one im using she runs but to start her i have to push open the metering flap for 2 secs then turn her over a and she"ll start then die if i do it again she"ll start then i hold throttle open 1/4 she runs ruff until up to temp so can i run a wire to the wur if so from where like a temp sender or some thing like that?? some one tell me what to do also the engine is kr 87 but the full inlet maifold + metering head from 91 kr would this make a diffience like the dizzy or hall sender ????
the WUR gets 12v from the fuel pump relay, the electrical connection here is just for the heater inside it, it wont be casuing the starting problems you have. The 5th inj is wired from the starter motor and also the ign switch/vacuum switch, it sprays on a cold start which is probably why it wont fire from cold, plus it also offers throttle enrichment for a little while when cold. The year differences will make no difference, it'll all work fine. I have a complete pre-90 16v engine wiring diagram, pm me your email address
Have you got the ISV control box that sits behind the centre console? You need one of them too. To be honest I'd think you could get it running without the WUR and ISV, but it would idle really badly, so you might as well do it right and enjoy the car more. The wiring for the WUR is for the heater element in it, which is only used when the engine's cold I think.
mk1 16v i know i need to get another loom really , no i havent got isv , yes the fuel pumps on wired it to ignition switch , so the wur gets a live feed when starting until up to temp as does the 5th injectior ?
If you use, as i have done, an idle-increasing-slider-thingy from a mk 1 gti, which also just gets 12v the whole time the engine is running (like the WUR), it will run nice cold as well as warm... On a mk1 this is located behind the inlet manifold. Just put this in the place of the isv on the 16v engine, then you don't need the whole idle stabilation module and loom either. (as this is all bosch stuff, so you'll find it on lots of k-jet cars: saab 900 etc) Then you need the cold start valve to... well... start from cold This gets its + from the starter motor and is grounded (-) by the thermotimeswitch, so the time it operates depends on temperature. Alternatively you could just wire it to a push-switch on the dash to use just before starting (this actually works very well too).
mk1 16v cheers m8 any pics of the thing in question as i have lots of spare parts from various models cheers
I think this is the same on KJet Sciroccos, which might be easier to find as they're more recent. I'm not 100% on that, but I'm planning to use the scirocco bit to control idle on my megasquirt conversion.
