KR VERY down on power. CRANK SPROCKET DIED, see p.7!!!

yep...

I even pulled out the intake boot to check that both flaps open and they do...

 

So have you ACTUALLY checked the cam timing? At the cambelt end and the cam to cam?

 

not yet as I've been attending to loads of job interviews

I'll do it this week, as well as another fuel pressures & delivery tests..

could anyone link me to the "metering head plunger" cleaning thread? I've used search to no success [:^(]

 

blocked catalyst or blocked exhaust?

e.g. contents of cat-brick or one exhaust box blown out and ended up creating blockage.

^ this seriously affects power and makes it very hard to rev the engine especially under load

doesnt always give a telltale noise

worth a check (and do a proper job rather than just shining a torch up it lol)

 

my KR has no catalyst, so one less thing to care

the exhaust is blowing on the mid-section, I have to fix it but it wasn't blowing when the power-loss started.

thank you for your comments

 

4 pages of problems and advice, with one of the original post stating that you should check the timing, as it sounds VERY much like a skipped cambelt. And you have pointlessly changed loads of stuff without checking the timing! 4 PAGES!!!

 

^^ What he said^^

 

Sounds like timing to me. When I did my 1st ever cambelt change by myself I got it a few teeth out and my car ran like crap. Few days later checked timing and it was out. Moved it a few teeth back in the right direction problem solved. Should have been one of the 1st things to check

 

I CHECKED THE TIMING, both timing belt (crank to cam) and ignition timing (static only, I need to buy a stroboscopic light).

i've said it a couple of times. What I'm left to check about timing is the crank sprocket as someone pointed out that it could be worn.....

next time, please, read

 

sorry if its been said before but when you checked cam to crank timing ,did you use the flywheel to find TDC,the crank pulley can indeed be out slightly so always best to use the flywheel marks

 

hey

I checked crank pulley to camshaft pulley
crank pulley to flywheel
flywheel to dizzy rotor arm


is that what you mean?

 

what i mean is on the cam there is a notch which lines up with the V on the cam cover
on the crank the pulley has a line which lines up with an arrow on the lower cam belt cover but sometimes this isnt always accurate so if you take the bung from the top of the box yo can see marks on the flywheel one is a diamond and one a dot,the dot is TDC,so use that mark to find TDC and yea use the notch on the dizzy housing for the dizzy timing
theres a picture somewhere in the FAQ section on what i mean

 

post 2

 

yeah, that's what I did

 

hmm so with that and all this from the other thread,im not sure what's left to check
is this of list of things TO check or are they all checked and/or replaced
1. Rebuilt Engine
2. Block sensors
3. Distributor Cap & Rotor arm
4. Fuel pumps (intank and outtank)
5. Fuel filter
6. All air pipes checked, no leaks
7. Starter motor
8. Fuel accumulator
9. Earth wires from "-" battery to engine head (read about this somewhere, but made no difference)
10. Ignition timing set correctly
11. Injector seals
12. Throttle position switch
13. ISV
15. Overrun cutoff valve
16. CO at 2.5% (not enough bad to cause this problem..)
17. Fuel pressures tested (page 5)
18. Delivery test done (page 6)
19. 5th injector's plug disconnected

 

that's the CHECKED list [:^(]

 

so when did you 1st notice power loss ,after the bump ,or after engine rebuild,who did the rebuild

 

I had a crash one day, and the same day (or the day after) I filled the tank with fuel.
It's then when I noted the power loss.


The engine was rebuilt 4 years ago, it should be ok but who knows.

 

yea should be then if its 4 years ago,the comp tester should give you an idea anyhow,the cam /crank timing being out would have made sense as loss of power as mentioned and earlier mentioned poor fuel consumption which you also say has happened since the crash,but as you have checked it and is fine,im not sure what else to suggest,was going to say hall sender but you have new dizzy
have you checked the coil?

 

no, I didn't replace the whole dizzy: only the rotor arm + cap.

Ignition coil is brand new as well.


What is killing me, is the fact that after the crash/tank_fill, the car started to lose power. Then, power came back again and it was running as powerful as a KR should be (after replacing fuel filter and filling a couple of tanks with good fuel).

Then, after using crappy fuel again, the car has been losing power again




WHen it ran bad (the first time), I did the fuel pressure tests (with your gauge) and they were OK. If the fuel filter had been blocked, shouldn't the fuel pressures have been bad??

I mean: does a good fuel pressure test result MEAN that fuelling is OK... on idle, or on the full rev range?