KR VERY down on power. CRANK SPROCKET DIED, see p.7!!!

yep

 

If the have worn so there is slop, or snapped off and the pulley slipped slightly then no, The keyway doesn't holt them in place, its for locating them. The torque of the bolt hold them in place. Can you imanine that little tang on the camshaft taking the full engine load!? It would last about 2 seconds!

Thats why performance engines often have dowelled crank pulleys.

 

Hi
Are you convinced that the 'frontal prang' is a 'red herring' OR you feel that the prang has definitely caused the 'engine running' problems.

 

not sure about it TBH.

the same day I had the crash, I filled the fuel tank with "cheap petrol station" fuel... and the problems started.


after some tests and some tanks of "BP" fuel, plus a fuel filter change, the problems were cured.


2 weeks ago I filled the tank with crappy fuel again (off another station, but the same make "Meroil") and the problems came back.


it might be a coincidence ... or not! who knows


the thing is that all of a sudden, the car started to run fine again... but two weeks ago, it went wrong again


I've filled the tank with good BP fuel today plus a can of 'injector cleaning', just in case there was a clogged k-jet filter (one of the bolt-filters of the metering head)... and the car seems to run better now, but it's just in my imagination

 

Totally agree with matey, somethin major is up.my 9a crank keyway sheared after 4wks of putting the engine in.it does happen.check yours by Putting the car in a nice easy gear to push, like 4th or somethin, lift the bonnet and push car bk and forth from the slam panel, watching the cambelt. When mine went the car moved a fair bit before it moved the pulley.the car would fly 1 day (made 158 bhp on rollers) then literally the next day wouldn't start, no power blardy blah. Took a few people looking, re setting cambelt position (as it moved)before we realised itd gone. I slung an abf in it to save titting about, that made 159.5 bhp so was slightly happier, until the other day, major det, took a few days before goin bk to basics with a compression test- headgasket gone between 3+4. That's all within the last 6 months, so if I was you I'd whip rocker cover off, check cam-cam, cam to crank, compression,fueling again, everything. Sorry 4 long reply but that's how it goes sometimes, I'm now enjoyin it again, thrashin it to within an inch quite a lot jus to make up for lost time. At least I've got a spare 9a to sling a crank in and wait for the abfs death

 

nice reply, thanks!

cam to crank timing was ok when I checked it (2 months ago).

when I turned the crank with a ratchet, it didn't feel loose at all. once it started moving, the cam pulley did as well. is that enough, or should I push the car in gear?

 

It may take the power of the engine to shift the play (providing its broken), something you might not be able to re-create with a ratchet. Change the tired looking rotor arm and cap, if that doesn't fix it, I'd have the thing apart, as said, something major is up from what your describing.

Then: Check the pulley's and time it up bang on. Do a compression test. Set the igntion timing to std. set the CO, check the fuel pressures.

 

The pulley could be locking in position when you turn the ratchet, my key slot on the crank had opened up, allowing the pulley key to move back and forth from edge to edge, so it could be locked to 1 side when you turn it. Then later it turns bk.. I'd say still have a look in the car park giving it a push bk and forth, and see what happens.. Then rocker cover off and check the cams positioning with each other, then their relation to the crank..

 

hey I've read it again and, if I remember correctly, I've noted that with the car on jack stands (so it is, with front wheel(s) not in contact with the floor), and the car in gear (usually in 1st), I can turn the wheels something like 15 or maybe 20 "freely", then the car blocks it.

sorry can't explain it better.


what I say is that when front wheels are flying, and 1st gear is engaged, I can turn the wheels back and front (NOT left/right) for about 20., then they stop. At that moment, I can turn them back. they stop. front. stop. back.etc....

is that what you mean???

 

Not too sure what you mean. Basically your looking for play on the lower pulley to crank. The starter turns it too quick so you'd never see it move a bit (if it will), so by putting it in gear and rocking it, your using the wheels to turn the engine slowly, so you can see. If you look through the timing hole gearbox end you'll see a wee bit of play before the fly moves, that's the diff/box. As soon as the fly does move tho, the cambelt pulley (and cambelt) should move.

 

so I should look at the flywheel & cam pulley, is that right? as looking at crank pulley & fly would be difficult

 

There is a 'timing guide' written by Nigel P in the 'sticky' section of the 16v forum.

 

Ok,

I'll have a look at it.


thanks


BTW, if I replace the metering head (I have a spare one), what's the way to set it for a first start up? Just plugging everything in does not work as a garage did it for me 3 years ago and they said that it flooded the engine

 

Why are you changing the metering head?

The garage sounds incompetent. Replace the copper washers when changing the lines over, othersise they will leak.

Why dont you just tak it to a specialist garage who know the car.. You seem to be going round in circles after 3 thread pages..

 

There's only one K-jet specialist garage in Barcelona (and not a few more in spain...), who charges about 200€ for just testing the parts of the k-jet system and adjusting fuel pressures (I already checked pressures)...

These cars are pretty rare in Spain. It's not like in UK where you have Stealth Racing (I wish I had it here!!)...


And the fact that I have a metering head at home made me think that it would be worth a swap, just to try, as it's not a hard job....


oh and the garage that flooded the engine when replaced the metering head, was a bosch car service which SHOULD know how these things work....



Spain is a country with pretty low car culture. People prefer buying a brand new 40.000€ BMW, spend 10 years paying it, just to show others what they have bought....

Only a few (like me) appreciate what a good old school car is, and we're alone as there are no garages that troubleshoot/set them up correctly.



sorry for this brick post but I needed to say it..

 

anything to consider, or any special way to replace the rotor arm? I've never done it before so I'd not like to fook it all up now LoL

I'll also check the ignition wirings

 

Remove the dizzy cap then pull the rotor arm off.. Might need a bit of a tug, but it can only go on one way so that helps

 

only one way? so then, how is it adjusted?

I'll do it next thursday as I'm attending some job interviews these days (luckily!)

 

OMG what a moron I am LoL


so there's no problem in replacing the rotor arm, right?


I hope the whole engine dies soon and all these problems go away with an ABF transplant ..... Oh wait! I hope there's nothing wrong with the metering head...