KR VERY down on power. CRANK SPROCKET DIED, see p.7!!!

ok well stop using the fuel you think is bad,that will eliminate that ,not sure on the other question tbh never thought about it like that,i know a dirty filter can cause issuse with power but not sure on pressure ,but if the pressures were ok i guess the answer would be shouldnt matter,also fuel pressure should be the same on idle as it is at full revs i would think,or if there is any change it wont be much,but if the tests are ok at idle the rest of the fuel system should be deemed OK

 

I'm not using that fuel anymore LoL.


I'll do the pressures/delivery tests again this week if I can find any spare time..

thanks

 

Jus had a quick flick through this, didn't see if you've mentioned doin the cam 2 cam timing? If not order a genuine chain off ebay for a 10er from chubnut, get the rocker cover off and check it out. For the sake of a 10er its worth replacing it anyway. If not that then I'm wondering if you've got a badly blown h/gasket? I know the chance of fuel/crash doin it isn't that possible, but if you've done everything off that list then I'm not sure what else could be up with it?!! Also stick it in gear and see if you've got lower pulley movement cos It happened to me and I had power 1 day then not the next, then power again, etc etc. Do that, then comp test, then if alls good get the rocker cover off. My 10pence for ya

 

I've not checked cam2cam timing yet. it would involve replacing manifold+rocker cover gaskets, and I'm trying to test anything that is 'free'.

this would cost about 40 in gaskets and the chain itself. Yes, I know it's only a few quid but I wouldn't like to spend more money in this engine as I've plans for an ABF transplant in the near future.

thanks for your reply

 

you could get away with using the same inlet gasket with a smear of gasket sealer,probably use the same chain (if its not rattling) and use the same rocker cover gasket if its not gone too hard,none of the above is advisable for long period but if an ABF is coming in the near future yo should be ok,it will put your mind at rest to check it,youl never find out if you dont look

 

the rocker cover gasket is considerably leaking. not that much, but it does leak, so it should be replaced. When I got my engine rebuild, the garage sealed the inlet manifold with some kind of silicone or something like this (no comments) so I'd need a new gasket (50mm one, discontinued, so should get it from ebay)...

I'll do the compression tests next week if the package arrives at home. I'll also be doing the fuel pressures test as well as delivery tests. If these are OK, I'll get myself a timing light with advance feature (I've always wanted to have one anyways).

Then I'll check the cam-to-cam chain.

thanks

 

I thought that it was not needed to remove the lower inlet manifold->head section, when removing rocker cover

rocker cover gasket was 'reused' when my engine was rebuilt about 80.000miles ago, and it was already leaking by that time, so a new one should be used.



anyway I hope I'll be able to do the compression test next week.


btw, turning the idle screw has no effect on idle since the power loss started. That's strange isn't it? As I already replaced it with another one (and with a newish o-ring)!!!

 

right, I didn't understand it, but now I do

 

hey,

I got the compression testing gauge today !!!

I've one question. SHould I pull out the fuel pump's fuse before doing the tests? how many time should I keep cranking?

 

Just pull the boot off the throttle body to stop the flap from coming up under cranking.

 

ok

I read somewhere that ALL plugs had to be removed before doing the tests.

Is there any DIY guide in this forum? I've never done a compression test so I don't want to break anything ...

 

should it be done with hot engine I suppose...?

and what about wet/dry tests? What's this??

 

make sure battery fully charged
take all spark plugs out
take coil lead off or make sure none of the plug leads are over the cylinders (incase they ignite the mixture coming out the plug holes)
put the tester into cyl1
open throttle fully
crank engine and watch the gauge
take reading
romove pressure from gauge by pressing the pin near the gauge
remove and put in cyl2 and so on,this is a dry test
then put a drop of oil down cyl1 and re test the pressure,then cyl 2 and so on,this is what is called a wet test
if there is a big difference between dry test and wet test ,that shows signs of wear in the cyl's and rings

 

should I do the wet test even if the dry test results are OK?
what about fuel pump fuse? You didn't mention it, and I've been told to remove it. SHould the compression test be done with air+fuel, or only air?


I'll use a battery starter I bought a while a go, to make sure that battery is up to the top on each test thanks

 

leave fuel pump as it is,unless someone can confirm different you do the test with fuel pump connected (NOT bridged relay) just as it is will be ok,ive never disconnected nor bridged doing this test and yea do the wet test even if dry are good,you may as well compare the difference

 

my 5th injector's plug is permanently disconected

how much oil should I throw into each cylinder for the wet test? Won't this oil cause any running problems after the tests?

 

john how many times have we posted at the same time
so you deffo dont need fuel in there,and its fine with just air for the test?