KR VERY down on power. CRANK SPROCKET DIED, see p.7!!!

Discussion in '16-valve' started by arnau, Oct 24, 2010.

  1. mk2bal Forum Member

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    This is getting a bit tedious.. Basically you've gotta look and see where the play is, if its on the crank pulley or the cam pulley. When mine went you could see clearly that the fly was moving, but it wasn't for a few degrees until the lower pulley moved. If your lower pulley and belt move straight away with the fly,then that's fine, but say the cam pulley doesn't, then its the cam pulley that has sheared/opened up... If the play is at the other end then its your lower pulley like mine. You could line eveything up to tdc, stick an impact gun on the bolt and remove the pulley and physically look at the keyway.. It can be done easily by jacking up and removing the wheel, access is good on the mk2 as its all below the chassis legs and very do-able in situ.
     
  2. arnau Forum Member

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    I'd need to check if the flywheel <-> crank pulley shows any delays. I think yes as when the crank pulley starts moving, provided it's a toothed belt, the cam pulley should move just at the same time. What I can't check at the moment is if camshafts move just when the cam pulley starts moving.


    however, shouldn't pistons move "before" the cam pulley, if the play was caused by crank sprocket?
     
  3. 3hirty8ight Forum Member

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    Should have left it there.. :lol:
     
  4. arnau Forum Member

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    1st
    2nd

    3rd
    rigth then, no one forces you to read this thread if you find it boring

    not all of us know EVERYTHING about these cars. I'm personally not a mechanic and I don't intend to look like one. I only try to keep my car running and any help is welcome. Many of your replies are really useful, but boy... it looks like you're trying to make me feel ridiculous by some of your comments.... well, as you say, let's leave it there

    go laugh to another thread, thanks :thumbup:

    Edit: keep in mind that I'm not English, so many technical words are new/difficult to me...
     
  5. mk2bal Forum Member

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    Chill winston! Its only forum banter.. Its hard to explain things when not in person, and sometimes you've got to be so long winded for the person to understand. I'm sure you get the jist of it now, but everyone has suggestions, like 'jack a wheel up', or 'it not being a very good way of telling' that's from their experiences, and they're not wrong, its just everyone has done it different ways..like I said it was clearly visible on mine, if not so on yours, then maybe think about actually removing each pulley, if there is damage present on either it will be visible.. Like rj says one tooths turn at the top will be barely visible on the bottom, mine was nearly 2.5 teeth out everytime we reset the cambelt position, prior to realising what was going on, so the play was clearly visible when testing this way
     
  6. arnau Forum Member

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    okay

    I'll redo the fuel pressures + delivery test on friday just to know it's not the fault, and an abf will come in next month. I hope a weekend of full time work will be enough to pull the old kr out and drop the abf in...
     
  7. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    I did kr -> abf swap in 10 hours, by myself :thumbup:
    it can be done even quicker if you're committed and/or you have help, but I was being a slow worker that day with lots of coffee and crumpet breaks :lol:
     
  8. mk2bal Forum Member

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    Yeah you should easily do the abf swap in a weekend. I did mine in a weekend, and that included pickin it up, and cleaning it all up etc.. Just make sure the abf lump has the crank position sensor in, even though you won't plug it in, or you'll have a hole in the block that needs filling and that's the only bit your kjet won't have... At leats whip the kr pulley off and confrim the damage 1st though!!!
     
  9. neil kaye Forum Junkie

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    i hope you washed your hands before you had some crumpet ;)
     
  10. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    i like my crumpet dirty [:p]
     
  11. arnau Forum Member

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    well I'll do it then :) When? Maybe in 3-4 weeks, who knows. I'd like to do it ASAP as MPG has gone 20% worse and I drive the car for about 2000miles a month.... and that's money thrown!!
     
  12. arnau Forum Member

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    hey folks

    the rebuilt ABF will be dropped in the car on next saturday :)


    I did notice two things today though...

    RPM dial works correctly, it doesn't fluctate nor anything. it's okay except that when it's gone up to 4.5K, the needle stays still there while the engine keeps going faster :-o

    and the other thing is that, when I parked the car this evening, I opened the bonnet and the exhaust manifold was glowing red!!! and by glowing I mean GLOWING!!!


    if the spark was too out of timing, I think that it would pink... and it doesn't so it looks like valves are opening while explosion is happening. does that make sense?
     
  13. danster Forum Addict

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    It would only pink if the spark was advanced, the fact the exhaust was glowing red suggest that either the ignition was retarded, or valve timing is out.
     
  14. arnau Forum Member

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    in what RPM range does the KR ECU advance the ignition?
     
  15. danster Forum Addict

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    Pretty much right through the rpm range, ie from tickover where it will be around 10 deg BTDC, then gradually increase till about 33deg BTDC at 4000rpm. These are just approximate figures.
     
  16. arnau Forum Member

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    okay then I think the ECU won't be dead as the car has lost power over all the rev range.

    oh, and when the engine is cold (oil temp about 50C) it's got even LESS power (if possible!!!)....



    right then, I hope the car lives for at least a couple more days...


    edit: wouldn't it pink due to spark being too 'late' as it would detonate?

    edit2: how could ignition have gone away by itself????????
     
    Last edited: Mar 1, 2011
  17. danster Forum Addict

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    Have you had the timing checked to see if it advances as the rpm increases? If it is not doing this then that may explain the lack of power throughout the rpm range. It could be the ingtion ecu is duff and only supplying a fixed spark. Unusual but a possibility.

    I suppose if it was running very retarded timing, it could eventually get so hot that it would pre-ignite as the piston and chamber will be so hot. [:s]
     
  18. arnau Forum Member

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    no, I've not had it checked as I thought the main cause of the mispower would be a dead crank sprocket...

    The car isn't overheating at all, which is strange isn't it?[xx(]


    well I'll do the abf transplant in a few days, I hope it cures it all... but anyway I'll take it to a garage to get the ignition correctly set up :)


    but then it would run fine at low revs wouldn't it?

    i would hear the engine knocking I think, and there are no strange noises apart from a louder exhaust tone
     
    Last edited: Mar 2, 2011
  19. arnau Forum Member

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    Hey

    I did a compression test today and the results for all cylinders were about 25 psi.

    This could mean

    a) the gauge isn't accurate at all
    b) all cylinders have compression leaks

    now my question is: would the car idle and run with those figures?? It's running like a 0.8litered engine but it's idling fine...
     
  20. arnau Forum Member

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    I removed the crank sprocket and, effectively, it was gone...

    abf wil be in during the next weekend :)


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