KR VERY down on power. CRANK SPROCKET DIED, see p.7!!!

I'll check it, but the crash wasn't that heavy. Slam panel only moved the radiators 4 cm or so.

thanksssss

 

UPDATE.

-Replaced air filter
-No oil leaks in dizzy cap
-TIming belt's marks are OK
-Idle sits at 1.000rpm and maybe 1.100 when rad fan is ON (it's for summer as A.C. made idle too low when on)
-Overrun cutoff valve is OK
-Throttle position switch is OK
-There are NO air leaks. I've checked all vacuum pipes, intake boot, injector inserts, inlet manifold, throttle body, ISV air pipe, WUR air pipe, servo pipe..... everything
-Dizzy rotor arm and cap look OK to me. However, when putting cap back into the dizzy, I've seen that it has some amount of play. Pic 1 shows what makes that play, and pics 2 & 3 show the play itself. Pic 4 shows the rotor arm. is it set OK? Pic 5. shows dizzy cap, does it look ok?







-Flywheel marks are a)invisible b)not set up right. See pics. the tooth on the left had a white dot which can't be appreciated in my 0.3Mpx phone camera . BTW this car is a corrado, so I imagine gearbox will not be the same as golf and so flywheel marks won't look like the same?
(Crank and cam pulleys' marks were set OK when I took these pics)







Still pending:
-get CO checked
-check fuel pressures with gauge
-check plugs
-replace fuel filter

Actually checking:
-coolant temperature senders (swapping wires)



OMG that's taking my life...

 

it looks like the 3 of the coolant temperature senders are OK.
I've ran the car with TPS disconnected and it's been running like the same crap (idle is now about 1300rpm LOL with it disconnected).


To make things better, the TPS connector has melted as it's been in contact with the exhaust manifold, so I'll have to go buy a new connector '

 

well now, TPS plug has been replaced (6Pounds for a piece of plastic!!!).

I also drove the car with WUR plug disconnected and it feels like the same.
I used a set of OEM plugs lead set and it's ran like the same


I've inspected the metering head inlet fuel pipe's bolt's inner filter and it looks a little dirty but still allows light passing through it so I think it's OK..


I'll replace the fuel filter tomorrow and get the CO checked on thrusday... fingers crossed!!!

 

check your block, head maybe is crack somewhere, not realistic but worth to check

 

wouldn't it overheat, or leak oil, etc, or something worse if so?

 

buffff... got CO checked after replacing the fuel filter today, and it was 2.5% so it's not that far away from the ideal setting... at least not enough to drastically reduce the power...........................

I've left oil recirculation pipe disconnected from the airbox, as well as coil red wire just to try if that makes any difference....

I'll check fuel pressures on monday as I've already received a gauge testing set...


OMG I've ran out of ideas :S

 

Is the rotor arm ok? It looks like it might be on the way out in the picture. Difficult to see as it is out of focus.
The dizzy cap looks a little tired too.

 

I'd say yes... but I'm not sure as it's the first time I see one LOL

I'll take some pics of it tomorrow as I'll put silicone leads back in.



I've only left to try:

-unplug HALL sender wire, what effect should it have if everything's okay? and if not?
-unplug ecu temp. sender wire. what effect?
-unplug coil red wire. what effect?



I've ran out of ideas [:^(]

 

Can't tell much from your pics - looks like the light was a bit low.

The car won't run if the hall sender is unplugged.

 

yes, there was near no light at that moment, and I forgot the camera at home so used my crappy phone one..

I'll take some better quality pics tomorrow.


however, exhaust doesn't sound like it's got unburnt fuel out of the head though... shouldn't a defective rotor arm cause this?

 

right.

well, I'd better say wrong..



I've ran the car with oil recirculation disconnected from the airbox and the red coil wire disconnected as well, and it's made no difference.


So it looks like there's something really wrong with timing advance or whatever....!? car revs slooooooooooooooooowly up to 6.000 (I've not tried to past it as it looked like it wasn't feeling good..)....



I think this one will be a long, long thread...

 

update

after all of that, I replaced the fuel filter (the old one was replaced 10k ago, and it wasn't blocked neither dirty...)... and after a couple of high quality fuel tanks, the car re-ran OK


but now it's acting again!!!!!!!

may the CO screw be acting up, or something? It happened a long time ago that from one day to another, the CO went down to 0.5 or something like this.... and the car lost a lot of power and even overheated...



if i just "press" the co screw towards the inside of the airbox, should something happen? Or is it like the idle screw that can only turned left/right, but not pressed?



I remember that a garage once set the CO to me, and when they inserted the allen-key into the CO screw hole, if they pushed it in, the car stalled....

 

Have you check the timing belt hasnt skipped a tooth or something?

'Pushing' the CO screw in will push the whole flap down in the airbox, which in turn extends the metering head plunger which in turn cuts/limits your fuelling.

CO adjustments only make a real difference at idle.. I very much doubt the CO setting is your issue..

Have you had you plug out to see what clour they are? If your cars got a fuelling problem. (lean will make you plugs look burnt white/yellow) (rich will make them loko sooted up).

If you do think its a fuelling problem, then get your system pressures checked at a reputable garage.

 

Yes, I checked the timing belt, and it was right, as well as the gearbox marks and disty rotor arm.

I had the plugs out the other time (2-3 months or less ago) and cyl.1 was a lil darker but I didn't even clean them when I put them back in and after a couple of days, the car ran like a dream again.

I also checked injectors spray pattern and did a delivery test and everything is fine.

I also checked the system/control pressures and they're OK. Even the wur mod was already done


I've ran out of ideas


I have another metering head at home but I just don't know how to set it so the car starts and runs

 

Its go to to be timing.. cam to cam, or cam to crank.. somethings out for sure.. If youve got spark and fuel (at the correct times and volumes).. Providing everything is good mechanical order (no blown head gasket etc) then it should run well enough.. IF ITS TIMED UP OK!

 

you're right there. but... why is it running OK sometimes.... and sometimes not?

It accelerates harder if I push the acc pedal slowly, however if I push it to the metal it feels weaker


Head gasket is OK IMO, the engine was rebulit about 60K miles ago (3 years now) and it does not overheat, does not use oil (just a little if I drive it hard LOL)....



thanks for your help

 

Might be worth checking the keyways havent snapped on the cam pulley and crank pulley then. Could be moving under engine load.

 

wouldn't this cause a massive engine destruction?

 

Hi
Is it a 1.8 ?