Might just be better getting the head skimmed more and putting diesel in the tank! Anyone up for explaining inlet manifold pulse tuning and exhaust reversion whilst on the subject of cam duration?
Reading this post for the first time, my mind is quite too lean, if you want to reach more than 160-170 whp, you will need another metering unit, a GrA one, more often alu look, coming from Porsche 944 / 944 turbo. 13 as cr needs other spark plugs in a quite colder range. Do not forget to check the valve / piston clearance. On my std KR JMD had to grind 1 mm in the pistons for the inlet valves lifting at 11.5 mm (cat cams 279-268), but I suppose your high compr pistons are foreseen for high lift cams.
Your thinking on the right lines... Thats quite a big difference you've worked out there, you need to get closer to the correct ratio. 7.5 is too low, 8.5 is in the upper zone and would be fine.
Thanks for your answers everyone.I really appreciate this because i spent months working on this car rather than hours ;p I'm not goint to take it to someone who knows about fuelling and k-jet especially though since in 3 months i'm going for full EFI.. this car is for use in 1/4mile racing.Is it better to change cams and use more duration ones or lower a bit the compression ratio and stick to the same cams? Thanks again
Well thats the trick isn't it - working out at what revs you need your power band - you need to consider your gearing - no point having an engine that makes power where you cannot use it for drag racing, dont you just need max power? or is mid range important? have you tried some race fuel yet? you might be surprised what CR you can get away with on some high octane brew, especially since this is a drag racer
You need initially, grip, grip and more grip for the first 60ft, then strong torque leading to peak torque and max power. Ideally you want to gear your car so at the traps, you finish just before the torque drops off hence the relation to max power.
