ok, here's how it works in simple terms ... fuel passes through valve in the wur. this valve is held in place by a spring. the strength of the spring's force against the valve determines how much fuel passes through said valve. the stronger the force, the less fuel that passes through and consiquently the higher the pressure of the fuel on the inlet side of the valve. this is the control pressure. we already know that low control presure=rich mixture because of how the metering head works. the pressure of the fuel on the output side of the valve is completely irrelevant. when cold, the bimetallic strip pushes in the opposite direction to the spring and effectively makes the force of the spring against the valve weaker. logically this means more fuel passing through the wur and a lower control pressure = richer mixture. its important to notice that the neutral (i.e. cold) state of the strip is that it is bent. as the engine warms up both engine temperature and the electrics interact to effectively 'unbend' the strip and lift it away from the spring. when the engine is completely warmed up the strip isn't affecting the spring at all. at this point the electics are having no effect either as the heat from the engine will be enough to keep the strip 'unbent'. you should be able to see from this that the electics do not effect either the initial cold start or the final hot running state - it only effect the warm up period where the spring is under the infulence of the bimetallic strip. if the electics are unplugged the cold start period just gets longer because ti is down to the engine temp alone to unbend the strip. hopefully this helps a bit.
The ones on the side, were displaying the same. Only the one in the back was lower. But thanks for the reply!
Yep, that helps a lot! Thanks for the explanation! I was confused and had it the opposite way round in my head that the electrical connection was to warm up the bi-metallic strip until the engine had warmed up enough to do it without. I'll get there in the end, thanks for all the help so far!
errr? that IS what is happening! the electrics slowly warm the strip, just not as slowly as the engine temp does.
Sorry, yeah you're right, I was confused as I said! Arranging to borrow a suitable fuel pressure gauge and going to try and get this sorted out once and for all! No doubt more questions to follow, please be patient with me!
I have just bought a '96 16v Golf can anyone tell me what the best induction kit to fit is, have looked at K&N and Pipercross, the K&N looks the better kit to me, also does anyone know what BHP it should have from standard and what BHP an induction kit would take it too. Thanks Jim
welcome to the forum! you'b better start a new thread for that question mate. click the new topic button near the top right.
hi i m having the same problem with my mk2 16v chnaged plugs fuel filter air filter leads, dizzy and still no joy. I have the exact same symptoms, thinkning about changing temp senders etc
I had this last year and found that the rotar arm was knackered along with the idle stabilisation valve, this is a very common fault as soon as you pass the 90K+ miles. Sort these and problem solved.
Yeah - sorted mine a while back, there was another thread on it started by Pigbladder - I put all the answers on there, have a search, if you can't find it I'll re-type. Basically it had a knackered WUR, changed that, set up pressures and it's sorted.
mines kinda done...i swapped loads of bits over , but it kangeroos unless the wur is set at 60psi warm
Glad you got it sorted guyz! I have a similar prob, traced it to the warm up reg also, have just ordered another one and fingers crossed, it will cure it! Did yours work alot better with the eletrical connector on the warm reg disconnected? with mine disconnected it's like got twice as much power!
Which part do you think is so funny? of course i am serious To ellobrate it feels like have twice as much power, because my WUR is faulty and seemed to be holding back the power! - i have no idea why btw
Then I will def try it!! I believe my WUR is not that good anymore... Once, a mechanic told me that you could disconnect almost any thing on this car, that it would still run... From what I've been reading and learning, he is correct!!
I agree most of the bits can be disconnected/removed If i was only knowledgeable to know exactly what each bits did What exact does the WUR do anyway?
Hummm... I have disconnected the WUR plug, and the car started to ping/pink in low revs/high gear... I don't know what the WUR does, but it seems it didn't help in my case.
O well probably helped me because - I found my problem - C0 was set at 0.15% Not sure why or how but it did
