..hello Just finished my 6a conversion with 45's. Compared with the old KR where power keeps increasing up the rev range till you hit 7,000rpm, the 6a flies from 3,000ish to 6,000rpm and then there's no more increase in power. Is this because of the 6a cams still in there holding it back or because it's a 2l keeping the power further down? oh and i have never driven a 2l 16v before this which is why i'm asking thanks
If you've left the 6A cams in then I would suspect thats why its running out of steam early. Fit the KR inlet camshaft, it will give huge power increases over the 6A inlet cam. It also probably needs a good setup - get it rolling roaded.
The KR probably topped out around 6200 power wise, but because they are a revvy engine, felt as if it was holding it to 7K.. A 2L wont feel quite as free & revvy unless its lightened/balanced and/or has a lightened flywheel.. The KR inlet cam should gain you a bit assuming a 6A shares its cams with a 9A..
thanks for the answers looks like i'll have to change the cams as its a wierd feeling without that top end poke Would i be right in thinking that if i change the inlet cam, it'll affect the ignition/timing? Am hoping to change them before going to a rolling road tune, but not kill the new engine on the way!?
Only the KR inlet is different to the 6A, exhaust cams are the same, and you will loose some sub 3000rpm torque with the KR inlet on the 2L, but you may be happier with the power delivery, I had my 2L 16v with KR inlet run back to back on Stealths rollers with the 9A/6A inlet and you can clearly see the flatter and lower revs biased torque curve with the 9A/6A inlet, not a massive amount but noticeable on the road to. 6A/9A inlet cam is past it's best before 5000rpm torque wise and 57/5800 revs for power, KR in contrast will not reach peak power and torque till about 6000 and 5800 respectively. David.
Good info there David! Just bringing this back up, can you remember what increase/decrease in BHP and Torque figures there was when changing from a 6a inlet to a KR inlet Thanks very much
should be 10bhp plus at the top end more power (ended up with 170bhp when the head was flowed on mine too, so that's over 35bhp up on a standard 2.0) but up to 6lb/ft of torque less depending on where abouts on the curve from 2 to 4,000 rpm, KR cams give a bit of a dip in torque rate of increase in low/mid revs, seen this on lots of valver plots whereas the 9A inlet gives a very flat torque curve and so a slightly more even rate of power increase. On the road a standard 2.0 16v (9A cams) does feel quite torquey at low revs. the higher lift of the KR inlet will always give worse low end and better top end, it gives a couple more mm lift than a 9A I think ABF mk3 inlet gives even more lift I think but less duration for emission reasons AFAIK
Yeah, I'd like to see the graphs on that! Did you swap the cams at Stealth then on the same day? Cheers, Joe
superb just the info i needed Thanks Am in 2 minds again about which cam to use before i spend +100 on RR tuning my 45's on saturday. Can't afford to spend that twice unfortunatly.... uhmm decision decisions
Funny how the KR inlet cam makes the 2.0 loose torque low down over the 6A/9A inlet. When I fitted the exhaust inlet cam to my KR, the low down torque was greatly increased over the standard KR item (as far as driveability goes anyway), so I thought a change from 6A/9A inlet to a KR or exhaust inlet cam would give similar results.
with webbers and their ability to support high revs I would go for the KR cam, if you lose a little midrange then so what.
I've lost mid range torque over the KR inlet cam with the exhaust cam modded to inlet fitted. But the graphs show that the ex cam holds the torque for a few hundred rpm more over the KR inlet cam. I know someone on here got their cams muddled up when fitting KR inlet cam in a 9A, and when they got to Stealth they were a bit dissapointed to only make good power up to 5k rpm [:^(] Sife1 - Go for the KR inlet cam Ignition timing makes a lot of difference to the 16v's eg- on 3 degrees advance mine put out 176bhp, 6 degrees 183bhp and 8.5 degs 189bhp , pity it pinked like feck on 8.5 though [:^(] And if you have the 'box out, get the flywheel lightened and balanced by Hotgolf, makes a lot of difference to the 'reviness' of a 9A Edited by: G_V_K
I noticed the same! think where the 1800s are very flat lowdown and the exhaust cam mod boosts lowdown,you notice it more.Thats why mod on 2l doesnt notice as much cos they already have lowdown torque
i hear you GVK Unfortunatly just found out i can't get my VW mechanic mate to change the cams over before the sat RR session and after some debating i've opted against doing it myself in the dark tomo night. Even though i've just swapped the engine myself i don't really feel confident in changing cams round and getting the caps and timing set up correctly i don't want to kill the engine 3days after fitting it! Lack of funds means i'll keep with a torque monster till summer and then fork out for cam change + RR set-up ready for some track day action
