2l driver bhp question?

i have a bit of an engine change in the pipe line,

thinking about a 2l bottom end (mk3 gti 8v)
1.8 driver head,
gti cam,
gti manifold and down pipe,
cat back scorpian system,
weber carb 32/34 DMTL
'performance' air filter

roughly what bhp + lb/ft will i be looking at with that set up?

(at the mo i have 101bhp - 1.8 driver with weber carb, cat back exhaust, air filter)

cheers. tim

 

130 maybe?

Smithy saw 120odd with his 1.8

 

cool that would be a good target,

if i were to do a little head work to,

(what kinda head work could i do? - matching up for the exhaust manifold? etc?)

tim

 

Does your car have a cat then?
As for head work check this out http://www.sa-motorsports.com/diyport.shtm
Edited by: dexteruk

 

ok then smart arse! from downpipe back!

cheers for the link,

tim

 

I matched the manifolds and smoothed out the port area behind the valve head and valve guide on the head I ported, and took any rough bits out of the casting. Certainly made a nice difference in power when I put it back together

 

how long did it take you?

did you find it hard?

i quite fancy haveing a go my self on a spare head that i will soon have,

tim

 

nice link

 

Took me a few evenings after work to do it all. I also re-lapped the valves into their seats and fitted new guides and stem seals at the same time. Got the guides pressed in/out at a local engineering place for a few quid. You'll need a dremel with loads of bits as well as needle files and cutting bits to do it all.

 

is it obvious what needs doing onece the head is off?

i will need the car so i will be getting another head to work then i will swap then, i will also need to look at the exhaust manifold? and inlet too?

how much would it cost to get some one else to do it for me?

tim

 

would cost lots and lots

 

The valve head shrouding in the combustion chamber and manifold matching are obvious IMO. Work on the ports however is more complex, there is a real possibility of loosing power rather than gaining it, that's why the people that are good at it are well known and charge lots.

 

rite ok

what should i do for now then? just stick with the 2l and see how i get on then start thinking about head work, or may be just do the easy bits, is it worth doing all this what power gains am i looking at?

tim

 

I guess it depends on how your 2.0 comes, if it's in bits when you get it you may as well do the head work, be it DIY or professional. However, if it's complete, you could remove the head at a later date, when you're no longer satisfied with the upgrade.

 

then engine will be complete,

there for i will have my driver head that will not be in the engin that i could play with and fit at a later date,

or i could forget that, and get a crossflow head and a set of twin carbs,


tim

 

the 2.0 head is no use - so you can only fit the block, so mark, what you just said was rubbish

 

is he not talking about the engine that low rider is building for me? which will have the 1.8 driver head?

tim

 

You NEED to get the head worked for 2.0, especially if its a driver head as the valves are even smaller!

 

so the 2l bottom end wont work with the driver head if the driver head is standard??

im confused?

tim

 

it'll work, but it'll be crap.

The GTI head sturggles at higher revs without being worked, the driver head will be even more useless.

Why dont you just do everyhting you want, but dont fit the 2.0, change the cam, exhast manifolds etc but keep 1.8 - smithy had good power cheap


You really need to chuck quite a few quid at the driver head to make it worthwhile.

Another option would be to use a gti head, but you'd need to flow that too