45's on 16v

Discussion in 'Carburettor' started by mk1 driver, Sep 19, 2007.

  1. mk1 driver Forum Junkie

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    Can anyone advise me as to what chokes, tubes, jets etc. I might need to get a pair of 45's running nicely on a standard (possibly with headwork done) KR, with the only addition being an Ashley competition 4-1 exhaust manifold?

    They currently have:

    Chokes - 36mm
    Auxillary venturis - 4.5
    Emulsion tubes - F16
    Main jets - 145
    Air jets - 155
    Idle jets - F8/55
    Pump jet - 45

    Not sure if all these will get it going ok? Hope someone can help.

    The reason for 45's is that I wish to upgrade/uprate everything else at a later date.
     
  2. mr hillclimber Club GTI Supporter and Sponsor

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    Nothing wrong with 45's. if it was to stay a standard engine (std head) I'd start with...

    34mm chokes
    140 mains
    180 airs
    50F11 idles
    40 pumps

    The tubes and aux vents will be fine to start with.

    If fitting a modded head as well then..

    35mm chokes
    145 mains

    All others as above to start with.

    36mm chokes are for power around a true 180hp, so will be a bit too big to start with on your spec. If you want to take a chance with the 36's to start with then at the very least change the air's for some 180's and the idles to something like 50 F8's... the current 55 idles will be quite rich.

    I'd expect a standard engine with the exhaust and carbs to show around 130hp atw's (155 atf/wheel) on a realistic rolling road, add "around" 10hp with a ported head.

    If you fitted cams the 36's would be ok with tweeks to the jetting.
     
    Last edited: Sep 19, 2007
  3. mk1 driver Forum Junkie

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    [​IMG]

    Lubbly jubbly. :thumbup:


    Thanks for the info and expertise by the way Jason!

    Are the usual prices for the jets about a couple of quid each and the chokes around 60 for a set? Do you happen to know of any good websites which show the range of jets available and that also have a good stock of parts?

    I'll be looking at getting a linkage kit in a couple of weeks time, along with all the other fueling gubbins and a manifold, which I think I will get from Rowland in SA. What seems to be the general consensus on what throttle linkage kit to use, is one in some way better than the other?

    It will be going into a Mk1 with a 16v engine if it makes some difference.

    Top mounted:
    [​IMG]

    Middle mounted:
    [​IMG]


    I read somewhere a while ago about how the screws used on most production cars are quite long/big and impede the air flow. (well, on much more highly modified engines anyway)

    [​IMG]

    Should I just leave them alone? Or are there maybe any better type of screws about I could use?
     
  4. mr hillclimber Club GTI Supporter and Sponsor

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    No probs bud, though I dont know about the expetise bit ![:$]


    Yeah jets are fairly cheap, around the 3.50-4.50 mark depending what you need. I think yr about right on the chokes, have a look for some used ones on E-bay or something, save a few quid.

    I've just ordered some Misabs from Southern carbs & injection, nice to deal with, 020 854 2723 or www.southerncarbs.co.uk , All genuine bits available.

    Also Fuel systems (FSE) are good to deal with, I have the number somewhere or a google search will give it up. From memory they have a listing of jets and chokes, though not sure if it's genuine parts.



    I would only advise a genuine Weber linkage from Southern carbs. They are multi adjustable and much nicer than the cheaper type, though not cheap at around 80 quid, but you get what you pay for with this item. You have a choice of top or under-slung mounting, single or twin cable. I use the top mounting twin cable type for simplicity to get at and reliability.

    I think you should be ok with yr manifold choice, longer and straighter than the Mangoletsi type.


    You "may" have to lower the rad a bit to clear the carbs with some long trumpets and big filters.. anybody ?


    I read somewhere a while ago about how the screws used on most production cars are quite long/big and impede the air flow. (well, on much more highly modified engines anyway)

    I should'nt worry too much about the screws at this stage, though if you want you can just trim them down flush and re-fit them with a tight "nip" and some thread lock sealant.
     
  5. steved Forum Member

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    Go for the Dbilas inlet manifold from Regal Autosport these are fantastic.

    [​IMG]
     
  6. mk1 driver Forum Junkie

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    Thanks again for the info Jason, I've also used FSE in the past and a very good service.

    How much is the Dbilas manifold Steve out of interest?

    Can anyone remember who it was that made, or modified, the metal water flanges on the block which are angled down to clear the inlet manifold?
     
  7. steved Forum Member

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    160 for the Dbilas manifold, You dont need to use the angled flange the Oe one works fine.
     
  8. mr hillclimber Club GTI Supporter and Sponsor

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    Yr welcome James.

    That manifole price may look expensive but it's better than buying a Mangoletsi and having to open up the ports (if the 16v version is anything like the 8v). Do the Dbilas manifolds need any fettling Steve ?
     
  9. steved Forum Member

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    No they seem to be fine but mine's been port matched just to alow that little extra flow.
    I think the Mangopooty manifold works out similar in price to the Dbilas.
     
  10. Brookster

    Brookster Paid Member Paid Member

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    i know somone with a weber manifold for sale !!
     
  11. sambo Paid Member Paid Member

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    PM me than mr brooky!;)
     
  12. mr hillclimber Club GTI Supporter and Sponsor

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    Ah good, cheers.

    Yeah the Mangolcrapsi's need a lot of work to tidy/open them up. I'd say it's one of the reasons people are sometimes disapointed when they fit Webers or Dellortos as I'd imagine they're used "as cast" in most cases.
     
  13. mk1 driver Forum Junkie

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    A few quick questions...

    Will the Facet 'Red Top' pump be ok to use, it specifies 200bhp+ but I'm guessing the regulator will be able to bring the slightly higher pressure down? And will save me buying another pump later on if this is acceptable.

    Where is a good place to mount the pump (and regulator (o/s inner wing?)) and if they're mounted inside the car, do you need any kind of bulkhead/boxing off?

    I think I'll get the Weber linkage kit with the single cable but for reference, how do you fit the twin cable setup? Extra hole through the bulkhead and the twin cable throttle block goes somewhere near to the pedal?

    I notice Steve on your engine bay picture, the vacuum take-off on the manifold, do you have the Dbilas part number and do you know if they all come with the vac take-off and mounting studs?
     
  14. steved Forum Member

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  15. mk1 driver Forum Junkie

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    I've got the choice of two fuel senders.

    The first of which is the original carb sender that doesn't have a lift pump attatched to it, this has 6mm ends. The other one is the one I have fitted at the moment, the Scirocco/Cabriolet lift pump fuel sender, this has 8mm fittings - the same size fittings as what is fitted on the Facet fuel pump.

    Would there be any problems using the sender unit with the lift pump? Or should I swap the senders back so I dont have a lift pump in the tank?

    Cheers.
     
  16. fthaimike Forum Addict

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    Only pics i could find from when Velly was having his 45's setup on his 1.8 16V Mk1

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    (still had standard radiator at the time).
     
  17. mk1 driver Forum Junkie

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    Did he ever change the radiator for something else, or just made do with the shorter stacks and standard rad?

    Any figures on Velly's, Mike? As my setup will be pretty much the same.



    Interesting one of the throttle linkage, same one I'll be using on mine. Dont know if someone else can answer this but do you have to cut one of the plates slightly to allow the linkage bar (the one running vertically down in between the carbs) to clear?

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Oct 24, 2007
  18. velly_16v_cab

    velly_16v_cab Forum Junkie

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    hiya all
    my figures was abit low but i think that was dude to a wiring problem on the ecu

    i got 169bhp 140lb/ft
    it was twin 40's NOT 45's
    i rand a std rad with the rear cowling trimed back
    here is a few pics tho

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    also ran long and short cones but didnt notice a difference
     
  19. Hotgolf

    Hotgolf Paid Member Paid Member

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    I have a similar linkage on my carbs. The 1 lever had to be bent inward towards the carb quite a bit to clear the other part of the linkage.
     
  20. mr hillclimber Club GTI Supporter and Sponsor

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    You have a PM James. And yes, as long as it's not needed, lob off the offending part of the linkage.. BUT CHECK & CHECK AGAIN THAT YOU DONT NEED IT!!! :)
     

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