88 GTI 8v first start after 10 years any advice welcome

Discussion in '8-valve' started by GTIBOB, Jul 14, 2020.

  1. costel1969

    costel1969 Paid Member Paid Member

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    Might be worth talking to a decent tyre place and see what they have to say about other possibilities on a 14" rim
     
  2. GTIBOB

    GTIBOB Paid Member Paid Member

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    I know larger rims are more popular but the le Castelet wheels are specific to the 1988 Campaign GTI. I think it would be a mistake to replace. Back in the day I did like the BBS alloys on the 16valves but I think the Le Castelets are rarer and Genuine centre caps for them rarer still. For me it would be a bit like swapping the wire spoke wheels on an Etype jag for alloys.
     
  3. costel1969

    costel1969 Paid Member Paid Member

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    No fair point alright - I'm an OEM stickler so yes stick with the alloys you have
     
  4. GTIBOB

    GTIBOB Paid Member Paid Member

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    Hi to all ....it’s been a while.
    With this recent lockdown I’ve just been able to get back at it with the GTI.

    Need a bit of assistance with a stubborn leak in coolant system on PB 8v.
    Have had a problem with a leak on this flange at the front of the block.
    Replaced O ring and 3 attempts to seal along with additional instant gasket.
    Simply topping up the header tank causes steady drip from base of this alloy cast flange.

    I think the casting must be cracked just above the lower securing bolt.

    can anyone tell me the correct name of this part. (Please see photos)

    are these easily sourced?

    any advice welcome

    cheers
    Rob
     

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  5. costel1969

    costel1969 Paid Member Paid Member

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  6. GTIBOB

    GTIBOB Paid Member Paid Member

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    Thanks Costel
    I can see plastic flanges on eBay but there are the two sensors on the top of this alloy original. Can’t see how these sensors would be transferable to one of these plastic flanges.
    Would be great to hear from someone who has replaced one of these.
    Rob
     
  7. GTIBOB

    GTIBOB Paid Member Paid Member

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    Would the two heat sensors unscrew from the alloy and screw into the plastic flange. Is the plastic flange threaded on the top to receive the sensors.
    Perhaps it is which would be great....
     
  8. costel1969

    costel1969 Paid Member Paid Member

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    Is the part from VWH not metal Rob? It looks metallic to me and certainly looks like the original.
    Cheers
    Robert
     
  9. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    thats not the right one, you need 027121133A if you keep the alloy front flange. The difference is A part has an extra hose connection on the bottom for the oil cooler setup. If you want to move to plastic flange you also need to replace both coolant sensors with associated o'rings and clips. The ecu temp sensor plug will fit the new blue one but you'll need to splice 2 pin plug to coolant temp and add earth to 2nd pin.

    if its leaking that badly have a close look at the flange and the head, must be a crack somewhere if not heavy pitting on the seal face. give it all a really good cleanup and see, fingers crossed its the flange and not the cylinder head!
     
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  10. costel1969

    costel1969 Paid Member Paid Member

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    I stand corrected RJ
     
  11. GTIBOB

    GTIBOB Paid Member Paid Member

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    Thanks guys. think I’ll play safe and stick with an alloy flange as recommend by RJ.
    Guys at VWH very helpful today but only have plastic flanges with different sensors . Will keep ringing around and hope I can source one.
    R
     
  12. GTIBOB

    GTIBOB Paid Member Paid Member

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    Well I found the culprit there is a crack where the coolant is weeping from. Think I’ll try to source another one of these alloy flanges. They’ve got to be better than the cheap plastic ones.

    just wondering if this crack could be sealed with that plastic metal epoxy smeared on the inside and outside of the crack. Probably a waste of time?..
     

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  13. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    its worth a try for sure :)
     
  14. GTIBOB

    GTIBOB Paid Member Paid Member

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    Bad day at the office today refitted coolant system and went for a startup. No go. Turned over but not even a cough.
    Ran fine before flushing coolant and didn’t mess with electrics or fuelling. Gutted
    Back in July I replaced both fuel pumps and car ran fine.
    Today I can hear the prime pump for couple seconds then silence. From memory I’m sure the main pump should be constantly buzzing whilst ignition on.
    Can’t believe this pump has failed after an hours running.
    Checked the pump plug for power whilst ignition on and 0v
    Took a direct wire from battery to pins of pump and it just clicks I presume the pump should run on direct connection to battery.
    noticed also that the fuel gauge not moving and I know there’s 20l of fuel in tank recently .
    Had to walk away
    Before I buy another pump is there anything obvious that I could try.
    Fuel pump fuse also seems fine.
    Bit of a low point guys
    R
     
  15. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    the pumps should prime with ignition on only, if they run constant that means your ecu has popped. bit odd you can hear the pump prime when wired normally but nothing when jumped from battery direct though, are you sure the battery is ok?
     
  16. Richard Gilberd Forum Member

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    i would disconnect the fuel line and see if it's priming to the front, could be something as simple as a blockage, or the lift pump has shat itself again! as John says the pump should function with 12v to it, you could always jump the fuel pump relay to test whether the main pumps working and if not then test your wiring to the pump itself but if you are hearing it priming i'm geussing the wiring's fine.

    I would also check for spark this possibly isn't a fuel issue
     
  17. GTIBOB

    GTIBOB Paid Member Paid Member

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    Thanks guys
    I’m going to give it a go again today.
    Few more checks to do. Just a real pain when you think you have things sorted. Both pumps replaced and car running. Now no start. Used to start first turn.
    Thanks for the advice I’ll see how I get on today
    R
     
  18. GTIBOB

    GTIBOB Paid Member Paid Member

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    how do you jump fuel pump relay it’s marked 80
    R
     
  19. Richard Gilberd Forum Member

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    run a wire between the two big pins the others are the trigger pins, although if you can hear the pump running when you turn on the ignition then this isn't the issue, i would still check that you're getting fuel at the rail though and then look at the ignition circuit. Usually a fuel issue will give you a bit of a cough especially if it has enough residual pressure, but no spark you won't even get a cough.
     
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  20. GTIBOB

    GTIBOB Paid Member Paid Member

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    Thanks Richard
    Not clear what you mean here. Do you mean pins on relay 80 or pins on the pump connector?
    I hear the short prime on ignition and I presume this is the lift pump so that must be working.
    But should the main pump in the accumulator not be running constantly when ignition is on to keep fuel pressure in system?
    Put 20 L fuel in tank at beginning of resto as didn’t really want car sitting with full tank in case it needed to be drained again or fire risk.
    Going to throw another 20 l jerrycan in.....couldn’t just be too low on fuel surely. Fuel gauge not lifting from empty. Is 20 l very little in the tank? Would 20l not be normal reserve in red.
    I know I’m rambling here but I’m sure you guys get it when you just can’t figure something out.
    Checked and have spark at all 4 plugs. New battery.
    Anyway if all else fails I’ll have to call in the experts.
    Cheers for now
    R
     

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