8v digi to ABF conversion?

Thats cracking mate, im sure i saw that topic but i must have missed the 8v digifant bit! thanks ive taken that all in now makes it look even easier.

Just 1 question... i see that engine has the immobiliser, what differences are there with an engine without the immob? also, i may sound thick here, but whats a PCM? it will come to me when somebody says it lol.

 

Also quick question, will i need an 8v clutch or 16v clutch? im assuming ill need the 8v because ill be using my original flywheel.

just seems theres alot more performance clutches out there for the 16v.

 

Hahaha. Me and my acronyms. PCM = Power Control Module.
Engine w/o immobilizer just have the data line for diagnostics go straight to the PCM and not though an key intercept. So you do not need a transponder key and loop.

 

As in Dav's 8v car you can use the clutch to match your original gearbox. Flywheel does not matter.

 

What he said - but make sure you use a good quality clutch, and that the flywheel surface is in decent condition, to make sure you get a good grip. If it's a bit worn and shiny, give it a rub with rough sandpaper to get a good 'key' on it.

In my view, Sachs clutch kits are slightly better than the LUK ones. Others may disagree though.

 

Cheers guys, will get a new sachs clutch then when i do this conversion.. wont be for a good few months like... but i want to have a firm set of info for when i can do it.

cheers

 

just quickly - how much harder is it doing the swap from an 8v rather than a 16v mk2?

 

Not very hard if your car is a GTi digifant 2, you plan to keep the VW digifant 3/3.2 control system on ABF lump and you are reusing the original 020 gearbox.
On Dav's red MK2 in the "How to ABF MK2 thread" the hardest thing was finding a Seat airbox and configuring the immobliser. I say hard but only from a time point of view as this car was done on evenings after work. That car is still around doing daily duties of work and back.

 

so if the doner car is digi 2, and you use the ECU from the ABF lump which is 3/3.2.

The ABF ecu is immobilised so was thinking maybe easier to use the mk2 ecu/loom etc?

 

I would prefer to use the abf ecu/looms, but my car has a laser line immobiliser, so would need to transfer all that across as well wouldn't i?

Could I buy a non immob abf ecu/loom or are they too hard to get hold of?

cheers

 

Don't even have to get a 16v exhaust either. The 8v one is very much up to the job.

 

The engine immobilizer part should not have anything to do with your aftermarket alarm. This part of engine controls post 94. Usually you take the small transponder out of the supplied key and stick to the inductive loop and tuck away. You orginal key is not disturbed nor is the ignition switch.

 

will the downpipe fit onto the abf manifold ok? so theoretically i could fit the engine and worry about the exhaust at a later date etc?

 

mine has the weird three pin thing, so I have an alarm fob (knackered) and also a little alarm key that I push into a thing on the dash.... I thought this was the immob or is it just a back up for the alarm etc?

 

And I understand VW's ethos.
16v engines or multivalve engines tend to have a extra silencer to reduce the noise from valve flutter. This is when you compare them to their 8v conterparts. VW increased the overall diameter 1/4 in ( in theory) and intergrated and extra silencer in the system counter exhaust gas back pressure and the noise. MK2 16Vs actually are quiter than the boomier 8v. This is because of the 4 box system.
Removing this may increase boom slighty and reduce exhaust back pressure.
I have fitted systems actually less diameter than 8v systems but only have 2 boxes with very little change to drive feel. These systems did have proper manderel bends though. On the red car in the how to thread, the OEM 8v, 3 box system, was used and I can say it is a very quick car indeed.

 

Yes. Everything fits. You will need to weld in a bung for the lambda probe some where on the downpipe merger piont.