A few K-jet running issues

Cheers for all the help and suggestions guys, this gives me alot to go on!

Just got the car back from the garage this morning, it was in to have a small puncture in the floor plan welded, before I refit the interior, fit new speaker cable etc etc! Looks as if it never had a hole! They also had a look at some exhaust blows I had noticed, they havent done those yet as I'm undecided which route to go down with the exhaust, but there is a hole in the first silencer box after the exhaust manifold/downpipe plus a join near the back box needs resealing! But this is for my build thread!

I'm going to recheck the timing today as I'd like to get it spot on, when I did it a couple of weeks ago, like a numpty, I didnt disconnect the red/black coil plug, so probably messed the timing up (which might explain why it feels a little sluggish!) There are no weird noises, so it's ok, but I need to get it spot on.

I have a bog standard strobe timing light, with no amazing features on it, so it's hard to tell what the timing is set to, obviously when the notch is lined up with the arrow on the casing it is at 6degrees BTDC, but I've been reading that KR's like around 7-9degrees BTDC - how do I calculate what this is with no markings for this on the flywheel!? When rotating the dizzy, if looking at it side on from the passenger wing, which way is retard, and which way is advance? Clockwise retard and anti clockwise advance or vice versa?! And how do I know when I've gone too far, 3 degrees is a very small amount to measure without a guide..?!

Is it possible to mark the flywheel with tipex, next to the 6degree mark at 7,8 and 9 degrees? In which case, would it be on the left or right of that mark and how much to either side of it? 5mm?!

 

Marvellous, cheers John! I'm on the case!

 

Well it's all done! Last time I somehow managed to retard the timing by about 1 degree, so that's probably why it was a little sluggish! It feels a bit punchier on and off the throttle now! It's set to about 8 degrees BTDC (give or take), no pinking whatsoever and it shuts off on the button, no overrun! There might be some scope fora bit more advance, but for now I'm happy as it is.

Now to get round to finding a decent pressure gauge and more trouble shooting (was interesting to note that once I disconnected the black/red ecu advance plug on the coil that the idle was a lot more stable.. ISV you think?!

 

Hi did you manage to sort the issues you were having?
many thanks chris

 

Drop Neil Kaye a PM. I think he made a couple and might have one spare. Not sure, but no harm in trying. Bumping an old thread here, so you might well have solved it by now.

Dennis's issue sounded a bit like leaky injectors to me. What's your problem doing Chris?

 

Hi thanks,
Well we've got it ticking over fine at the moment ,
Timing all ok , new non return valve on fuel pump,
And even added an inline pre-filter be fore fuel pump
Now, I can build up the revs slowly but as soon as I blip it
It just has the opposite effect in that it nearly cuts out ,
Or revs on 3 or 4 cylinders ????.
It's seems like fuel starvation in some form or other?,
We are going to check fuel pressure just before the metering head,
To cancel out any issues before that,also I have tried a different metering head
And cleaned the injectors with brake cleaner,
All to no avail, I have another set of injectors I'm going to
Clean & test and go from there , unless I'm
Missing something else , your thoughts would be very much
Appreciated ,cheers

 

If you can get hold of fuel pressure gauges, that's the way to go, otherwise you're just going on guesswork. I have a similar problem on a car I've just converted, and even with gauges I'm struggling to fix it - need two pairs of eyes really!

Once the car cuts out, are the plugs coming up dry, or still wet with fuel?