ABF 16v engine + ZXR750 bike carbs into mk2 1.6 driver

brew first though just got in.

Thing is I don't have the crane till tomorrow and the next jobs are putting the new clutch on and swapping the box.

And the xzn bit hasn't bloody come yet..

 

front end is off
engine stripped of intake, carb and leads etc
oil's drained
coolant's drained
radiator, expansion tank and scuttle removed
coolant hoses removed
fuel pipes removed
everything unplugged and ignition loom removed with coil etc
exhaust undone
bolts for mounts are undone
gear linkage undone

only thing still on are the cv bolts as no bit yet

all ready for the crane tomorrow

oh boy.

 

You have been busy. I reckon you deserve a beer to celebrate you efforts Dan.

 

no beer tonight.
been ill all week, that's why I didn't start til tonight.
Should have been Wednesday!!!

 

Pics of the first stage of engine removal...



Here are some pics of the manifold now all connected up with the carbs...
took me ages to get on correctly.
.







Here's one with the fuel rail connected as it will be used as brake servo take off...






I have also just got away with removing the bleed nipple for one of the carbs as it was very slightly fouling the water pipe on the ABF...

 

got the engine out



removed the box and clutch etc

fitted the new clutch and fly onto the ABF

fitted the box up with the front bracket from the driver

managed to drop the engine in....just
lots of wriggling etc was very difficult as the ABF still has the PAS and AC pumps attached...

Once in I realised that I didn't change the ABF rear mounting bracket to the MK2 bracket..

On taking the engine back out the crane had a problem

once it gad been lifted and then after been dropped slightly it refused to lift again it would only drop...so I had a stuck engine.....

so I took the WHOLE front end and cross member off and slid the engine out.


but this did make it very easy to get the engine second time around.




I would strongly recommend anyone doing similar to remove the front end totally and then slide in from the front instead trying to wiggle it downwards....



engine now sits on it's own on the correct mounts!!




tomorrow will be fitting:
fuel pump
ignition wiring
carbs with manifold
CVs
exhaust
rad and hoses
all other wiring and clutch, speedo cable etc

 

URGENT HELP NEEDED!

the lower manifold bolts are now too long at 5 inch

the manifold is down to say 1.5 inch

what bolts can I use that I can cut down to make fit.

Can't cut the long manifold bolts down as they only have an inch of thread on them.

 

A load of washers as a temporary fix?
What size of bolts M8 or M10? That's 13mm or 17mm head for the non mechanics.

 

they are M8 bolts.
the carbs get in the way of the long bolts too.

 

Ahh, Inlet manifold bolts. I was thinking exhaust.

Short allen bolts are the answer.
There should be some on your old engine that are useable. Oil filter housing might supply some.

 

can't find any that fit yet.
mk2 mechanical fuel pump and the oil filter are the same bolts as the top bolts from the lower ABF manifold IYKWIM

think I'll cut down the long bolts and flatten the sides to get some mole grips on. temp measures!!

 

what do I do with the alternator wires?
I have ABF alternator and using driver mk2 wiring.

I've put the big red live wire on the screw on the alt (B+) but there is a 2-pin plug connection on the alt' and all i have to put to it is the flat circle connection from the mk2 (BLUE WIRE).

Do I need to change this to the 2-pin connector block?
and if so which terminal?


please can you guys also help with this?

the oil cooler on the front has three plugs.
what from the mk2 driver wiring go to these?
Is it 2x oil pressure senders and 1 oil temp sender?

also on the side of the ABF head
I am to conect 1 temp sender for ecu, and one for water gauge
and there is the thermotime switch there too?

 

okay so the red wire goes to starter and battery live from point 'B+' on the alt'.

the blue wire goes from 'D+' on the alternator to C2 or A1/2 on the FBox dependant on year.

on the mk3 ABF alternator the 2 pin connector is labelled up with 'W' and 'D+', so I'm guessing that make up a two pin connection block and wire the blue to the 'D+' point and leave the 'W' redundant.

 

I had the ABF alt' wires anyway!!
swapped them over.
I was right in my previous post though it seems! cheers rub

I've connected up the oil pressure sender on the oil cooler housing.
There is still a black spade sender there, is this oil temp sender and now redundant?

Also, the white two pin connector on the side of the head was this for the ABF ECU coolant temp sender and now redundant?

I've got my KR ign loom receiving temp from a spade on the side of the head and the temp gauge reading from a black two pin sender (from the driver) plugged into the blanked output on the ABF coolant flange on the side of the head. thanks danster

With the fuel pump wiring I'm to use the earth trigger from the KR ign loom and what else?

 

Yep. Seeing that it`s so easy to get the front end off entirely, that`s what most people do...

 

right so let me get this straight.

On oil housing there are three 1 pin spade sensors. white, brown, black
blue/black wire goes to black sensor
yellow wire goes to white sensor
brown redundant.

on the side
1 spade for ecu temp (blue/white)
1 spade for dash temp sensor (red/yellow) what about the earth?
white 2 pin redundant.

unsure on the method for fuel pump relay, easiest?!

 

yep there are 2 large oil P senders brown and white, and a small spade black sender ALL ON THE OIL HOUSING.
So right in saying blue black wire to BROWN sender and yellow wire to WHITE sender?

So I need to run a live from G1 3
and use the KR ignition loom earth trigger for earth?