abf digi 3.2-suspected h/g causing bad idle. fixed now back with a vengeance

iv had the same isssues on two separate ecu's.
il try the tps wiring, but this was replaced when i put the lump in originally. and had 6 months trouble free motoring.

its a coincidence that the problem went away after i had the head off, and most the engine loom removed. then hang on, came back after i fully degreased the car, including a pressure wash in the engine bay. and the car being layed up in a cold garage for 3 days [:^(]

one other thing. that bl00dy round multi pin connector on the block, bow do you crack both sides apart? cant open it for the life of me

 

does anyone have any of the abf auto data they could send?

exactly what to look for with the measuring blocks?

 

my ebay blue special cable has never worked.
im getting it scanned locally in the next week hopefully. tbh, im not sure what do look at!

 

i still suspect the TPS. why dont you check the resistance continuity at the main connector at the ecu? unplug it and find pin 40. connect it to the ohmmeter and the other probe to the ground and move the throttle.


By senndogg at 2010-12-02

 

sounds like a plan. where do i earth the -ve to?
will i just see a variance in restistance at different throttle positions?

 

il try get this bl00dy connector off and work my way through the engine loom. i also have a spare TB

 

as you see, u have to ground it to pin 1 or 33. so you can check also if its a wiring fault


By senndogg at 2010-12-03

 

right had the engine loom off. tested with a gunson pocket meter using the beep function and all pins link to the main multiplug.

i know its the tb wiring you need to triple check. it seems fine as the guy who converted the loom re did the burnt tb wiring.

one thing iv found is the 2 plugs that connect to the tb (throttle stop at back and potentmeter at front) share a same pin on the multiplug. it must be earth, is this correct? or has something fused together at some point in the loom?

 

ballbags. just found a leak, possiblly onto fusebox.
i thought it was always down the bonnet release cable. seems its the scuttle under ecu. repaired now but over time it could have been alot of fluid. possible cause?
what shall i check for?

 

ABF fuseboxes are a nightmare. The majority of issues that i have had over the years have been fusebox related.

I know this sounds stupid but I can't find any mention of you changing the fuel filter... caused crap running on mine similar to what you have said... fuel starvation at low revs and idle. Didn't suspect it at first as it was fairly new... replaced it later and found it was chocker with crap from ****e fuel.

 

it was relpaced a maybe 18 months ago or so, put was planning to swop it over when i swop the tank. just need the bl00dy snow to clear so i can make it up the rents drive!

found a leak on the hose joining the injector rail. was only cheap tat from gsf. just got some nive sytec hose with proper milalor fastenings

il check the fusebox now mind.

 

Sounds like digi with all its extras compared to kjet can be a nightmare. I know its a more advanced system, and when runnin right MIGHT gain you 5bhp, but I've got a kjet abf mk2, 160bhp,okay so my wur needs replacing, but I know that, I'm not stumped or guessing or scratchin my head, its obvious its that. No messin about, no vagcom, no loom splicing,just drop it in, and if it 1 day goes pop ill jus wang anuva abf in it. Or 20vt qpeng

 

cheers

 

Soz mate- I know my response wasn't much help. Jus had a read through this thread and thought jeez this is some technical ****e goin down!! Wasn't takin the **** jus makes my kjet seem like a godsend! Best of luck gettin to bottom of it!

 

ha dont worry about it. kinda wish it was a k-jet sometimes. fat cams, worked head, wur and raised limiter. yes please!

 

i havent had chance to vag-com her yet. but i did completely take off the engine loom, and re-wrap and since then she has been fine. there was nothing wrong that i could see, and wire continuation was perfect.
the only thing i did come accross was the connector on the crank sensor was very loose. it was an aftermarket sensor (bosch iiic) think this was the issue as it had this problem on the old vag sensor.
there was a leak onto the fusebox.
the fuel rail had a leak also.

so i havent found the reason, but its stoped!

 

the stuff i got (7.5mm) reccommended by sytec for vw's is slightly too tight.
gone all out and got some 8mm hose. il do the tank this week too.

im not convined its this though, as it just felt electrical