think ive just found the reason my hand brake light is on all the time? as my abs light is on! warning lamp modules -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Hi, Disabling the Abs bulb should result in a fail; the mot literature says "the lamp must go through its correct sequence" - i.e. it should test and then go out. And apparently the database records whether a car has Abs. The basic schematic on the side of a late system air/abs lamp module (--- --- 235S) shows a '15' ignition supply to the lamp, with the lamp then connected to an integrated circuit, as well as the abs ecu itself. The i.c. can switch an earth for the handbrake warning ('EBV'), lighting the abs and handbrake lamps simultaneously. The earlier systems' abs warning, used until early 1995, is simply the bulb, with a 15 supply and a connection to the abs ecu.
just tested my ignition coil and all seems ok which is disapointing! terminal 1 and 15 read 0.6 and terminal 15 to ht read 3.30 so guess that means 3300. anymore ideas?
tshirt2k, yes i got all new ones so surly cant be that. just been thinking, ive just fixed my abs problem due to the abs ecu power cable terminal on the battery being dirty and corroded. it was only reading 1.5v when ovbiously it should be 12v. but there was another red 12v wire connected to the battery terminal which was the same, could it be for something which is giving me these running probs?
received my vag com lead today so checked for codes but none apart from the abs one which i cleared. took throttle boby pipe off to have a look, not in the best conditions and guessing could do with a clean? tho doubt this is causing my running problems.
^^^ Some carb cleaner and a lint free rag will sort that out. Yep you can test the resistance of the leads and also check for arcing (checks if the insulation is breaking down). Clean the leads up with some white sprit or preferrably some other non greasy degreaser type cleaner like APC and get a water spray/ water mister then go somewhere absolutely pitch dark, start the engine and then mist water over the leads - and electrical arcing will show up as faint blue streaks - if so then they are shot. If they are OE leads they can be dissasembled and the component parts checked indiovidually: Spark plug connector resistance should be within 4000 to 6000 Ohms. Suppressors (connectors from the spark plug leads to the dizzy cap and the connectors at each end of the king lead) between 600 and 1400 Ohms. HT Cables - continuity EDIT: Meant to add that it may be worthwhile checking the coolant temperature sensor data in Vag-Com as if it's misreading/drifted from spec that car at best will run like a dog. Matt has posted up the resistance/temperature graph somewhere.
thats great g60dub. ill check them soon, at the moment its with my mate whos doing the cambelt and chain, water pump, thermostat and sump gasket/oil/filter. regarding the testing of the cts can you do that with the vag com u get from buying the ebay cable? if so how?
i finally got round to testing the leads and got, going from longest to shortest, lead 1) 5.72 which i take it is 5720 lead 2) 6.08/6080 lead 3) 5.99/5990 lead 4) 5.77/5770 and the coil lead was 2010 now im new to a multimeter so a little help would be good. when your testing the resistance what does the m and the k in the corner mean? and why when testing the coil lead there was no decimal point like there was testing the 4 main leads? so from what i see the main ones are ok but the coil lead is suspect?
M is megaohms ie 1000,000 ohms. K is kilohms 1000 oh so lead 1 is 5.72kohms which is 5720 ohms if it was 5.72M then it would be 5,720,000 ohms.
The coil lead looks within spec as there are two suppressors (connectors) which should be within 600 to 1400 Ohms each so the resistance of the King lead should be between 1200 to 2800 Ohms which yours is. EDIT: Plugs leads look to be withiin spec too.
cheers for that info guys ive been cleaning with carb cleaner and cleaned the tb and icv. i also found that where the vac pipe connects to that oil breather thing from the icv was blocked and the others on the inlet manifold wernt that clear too so matt you were right to an extent! i also had a go at oiling up the fuel pressure regulator to make sure thats not sticking but dont think ive done it right, basicly i took the vac pipe of and squerted oil down it? the problem is ive not had the chance to see if its cured. i started the car and smoke was bellowing out the back due to the carb cleaner and onced that cleared it wouldnt idle and sounded well bad plus when it did idle it was well low. so i thought id take it for a drive to clear ect and whilst driving it seemed ok but soon as i came to a junction it ether nearly stalled or did. pulling away whilst steering was making some bad grinding and whining noises. anyway whilst aproching my drive i steered sharply and the car cut out! now by this point some of you will have a good idea what the problem is................power steering pump! after having a good look i found fluid everywhere and the resivwire was bone dry. looked at the pump and it looks like someone has hit it with a hammer resulting in the ball baring bit being bent so fluid leaks. now my theroy is if the pump is running with no fluid will it seize thus putting pressure on the engine? and could the pump be the problem in the first place? eg revs bounce. thanks, lee
Just a small point - The vac hose from the PCV valve (black plastic square thing above the alternator) to the front centre of the inlet manifold (right under the inlet manifold ISV entrance) should be 'blocked' as it operates a diaphragm (SP?) in the PCV valve so if you suck on the end of it you should feel resitance; if not then the valve in the PCV is goobered and it's a big vac leak. Of course the hose should be free of blockage though. Not sure if it's safe to use carb cleaner on the PCV - I think thats what may have killed mine.
o dear, thats not good i will check it in abit as i did spray alot in it. i took my leaking power steering pump off today and it wasnt seized started the engine and it just stalled so im thinking ive now finished off that pvc thing or me putting oil down the fpr vac bit?
right just checked. are you on about this small one this one i can get air passing both ways with ease. ^ and this one has resistance whilst sucking ^
If you can get air thru from the PCV valve vac hose (square thing to the left) then the diaphragm is split and is a great big vac leak. Cut the hose in the middle and seal each end for an interim fix (I used two screws and some PTFE tape) which should net you some of your 'fury' back. I chased a similar problem on mine - Down on power for ages and finally traced it to this.
^^ And that one PCV leak cost me so much torque loss that I couldn't get my mates MK3 8v off my chorus of verse.
i did read your thread with that prob g60dub, very long and intense well i split the small pipe and blocked both ends but it still wouldnt idle but i think thats because ive buggered the fuel pressure regulator. i take it even with the problem your car would still ide g60dub? before i made it worse and not idle the car was as first post had lumpy idle and lack of power ie no torque. so looks like ive found my original problem but made more trying to find it ether way i am in need of a fpr and pvc, what price we talking at dealers? or is it a case of me getting seccond hand ones. o and i need a power steering pump also if anyone has one?
