Yep it was intense... and emotional Have you checked you ISV is working and that your idle switch on the TB is okay? Have you cleaned all the loom and ECU electical connectors and cleaned up ALL the earthing points? FPR is the best part of 40 I seem to recall... Loads VAG/SEAT cars use the same FPR so just go and pockle some from the scrappies to switch out and test- just buy a couple of sets of FPR O-Rings from the dealers to be on the safe side.
im going to source the parts sometime next week. as for checking the isv and idle switch i wouldnt have a clue where to start as im new to the vag side of things so a little help would be appreciated and where the hell are the earth points? for example i was looking for the gearbox earth for ages the other day and could i find it, could i heck.
I have exactly the same problems as you curtis3431 its really starting to **** me off now, ive replaced all related sensors, fpr, wiring etc etc and still runs flat as a pudding and wont idle when cold ( bounces below 900 then kicks back upto 900). It would be great to figure this problem out as im thinking of taking the sledge hammer to mine.
well dont get the sledge hammer out just yet as i think or shall i say hoping its the pcv valve which is causing the problems, what g60dub was talking about in past posts. ive got one ariving tomorrow alone with power steering pump i need. @ g60dub, i checked my switch and it clicks just as the tb is closed. as for my isv there is alot of resistance when blowing down the pipe which comes of the air box with and without the ignition on but it does buzz.
check the wiring from the idle switch, if it has melted thru and shorted together the ecu will be trying to stay in idle mode all the time
right well as said ive looked at wires and the idle switch wires look ok to me and they dont fall apart when moved like this one! i do beleive this is the crank sensor? soon as i moved it it just crumbled. dont no what this sensor does or what symptoms a f**ked one are but cant be good in that state how much is a new one then? or do u recon it would be ok to repair? well thats a crank sensor and pcv valve i now need, surly after replacing these all will be well
well ive got a new crank sensor and my word it was a pain in the **** to fit my car still wont idle tho and i need to put my foot on accelerator to start the car. the micro switch clicks and the wiring behind the tb is ok. the isv buzzes and theres no vac leaks. only thing i can notice which might give someone a clue is when the car is running and i hold the revs at 1000rpm it will rise or lower itself quite noticeable with no change to throttle position. i really dont know what to do so any suggestions will be appreciated
Have you changed your ecu relay and fuel pump relay? This seemed to improve my hunting idle slightly. The %**% still wont idle when cold though lol.
no i havent really thought about them to be honnest but as a matter of course i will sometime along with a coolant temp sensor. ive got a second hand isv on the way to try first. surly if your car idles when warm and not cold its something like coolant temp sensor? have u replaced this as there only a tenner?
Yea I repalced that about a month ago, gonna recheck wiring to it today cos like you say the symptoms do point to this. The only things I havnt replaced are crankd sensor, and knock sensors and ecu. Not really to sure what problems you would get with a dodge ecu. Its been an expensive process so far with no real returns lol.
PROBLEM SOLVED..... received my seccond hand isv today so fitted it and now my car idles very well. took it for a good drive with the pcv pipe blocked and it pulls alot better than it did before so a big thanks to everyone who helped. id buy u all a beer if u lived close
yes i managed to replace it after spending about 3 hours on it i read up on here that someone managed to change it without taking off the engine mount, all i can say is he must have hands the size off a 6 month old baby
I cant imagine how someone could change it with the front engine mount in situ; unless using a poseable mirror and some trick allen keys. You can get it down to about an hr with practice - done mine about 4 times in as many days as chasing an oil leak and discovered I'd forgot to stick the spacer/sealing shims on the sensor body
