This is the information I've been looking for, I have a 90 spec digi 8v and want to do my first engine swap and drop a 2.0 ABF in but though Im handy enough with a spanner the wiring was putting me off but seams straight forward enough ??? Just need to find myself a engine now, Thanks any further tips I should know that will make my life easier ??
use std mk2/3 16v manifold, and a mk3 2.0 8v/16v or corrado 2.0 16v/g60 downpipe and cat bypass. then you can bolt on a standard 16v mk2 exhaust, and the cat bypass will have a lambda boss included so no welding or messign required. also very easy to fit/replace the MK3 downpipe if required, i managed to fit a downpipe with manifold still on while the engine was still in the car! very hard to do that with mk2 stuff unless you have a ramp. loom is pretty much plug n play but there are some differences, main one is wiper loom is too short. the main battery + and - cables are bundled in with the engine loom on the mk3 which i usually remove when doing the conversion loom. also later mk3 looms have all the lighting stuff included in with the engine loom which ideally you want to strip out. if it sounds scary I can make you a loom if you post me a mk2 loom plus abf loom
Thanks John would like to have a stab at it myself but it's good to know ther is a backup plan, just got my coilovers I've been waiting for through so thats this weekends job, then soon as I can find a doner car or engine I can get on with stuff, With what I've read pre 93-94 cars did not have imoberliser does this make things easier to come together or is is 6 and half a dozen ??
its pre-96 in the uk which didnt get the immobiliser, it makes the job a little easier but it really isnt difficult to wire in the immob box as long as you get a complete uncut loom. all it needs is an ignition live and an earth, plus a diagnostics wire to ecu and another to the vag-com port
At last I have a ABF engine (well I pick it up at the weeken) it has clocks, ECU, loom And everything still attached except the rad and gearbox. I'll be spending many weekends getting the block and head shiny and painted, then in the early summer Month's I can put the car off the road and use my bike day to day. Can't wait, think I'll be adding new clutch and engine mounts just to keep everything nice, One question I have is it worth spending the time to polish & port the head also if I take the valves out and clean them up will I need to get them re-seated ?? The reason for doing this is to make the car breath better also with the aid of a new filter my thinking more air more power, I may be wrong could be alot of work for very little benefit what yous think ??
porting work is a tricky business, its so easy to get things wrong! there was a good thead on this a while ago not sure where it went? if you remove the valves to clean i think you'll be ok as long as you make sure they all go back in the same hole where they came from. if it was me though i woudl concentrate on getting the engine in and running, then get another head to clean/port and whatever, then you can swap that over at a later date. the man in the shed is the place to get it done pro like, nothing but praise to be heard. there is a group buy thread for this
hello sorry my english is not verygood I need for help I have a golf mk1 and I equipe my car with abf mk3 engine 2L. My ecu module is siemens 5wp4 304 but my fusebox plugs are cut off. and I rebuild my car wiring harness with mk3 wiring When I'll starting engine on , the coil spark is work for few seconds and it,s stoped help me for this problem please give me a true map off wiring for starting on my engine.
yep thats an immobilised ecu, you need to send it off to have the immobiliser removed or wire in a matched immobiliser control box and key
excuse me listen to me I remove coil wire from distributor and starting engine : coil spark work. and when I connect coil wire to distributor and starting engine :the coil spark work for 2 or 3 seconds I guess if immobiliser is active , so when I connect coil wire to distributor and starting engine the coil should be don,t spark
read all of my posts about the immobiliser, this is what you need to do. like i already said, the spark will cut out after a few seconds if the ecu has an immobiliser, which it does
thank you very much please learn to me step by step for: how to send it off to have the immobiliser removed or wire in a matched immobiliser control box and key
find someone who is able to bypass the immobiliser on your ecu, this involves flashing the chips inside or something. this is something you'll need to check around on your own, as we cant know who is able to do it for you in your country OR fit an early ABF ecu from a pre-96 car. let us know the part number before you buy then we can confirm if its immobilised or not OR find a matched immobliser box and key from another MK3 Golf, as well as the wiring for it and the vag-com port. then wire this into your car: Once you get the bits above, you then need to wire it in as per the diagrams below: http://vwtech.no-ip.info/downloads/g3immobilisor.pdf http://vwtech.no-ip.info/downloads/g3vagcom.pdf then use vag-com to match the immob box to your ecu, clicky here
I have an ABF that I might let go for the right price. Have been considering keeping the head for myself and selling block etc. Has done 170 but pulled very well and had 8 new valves and guides fitted around 120k due to failed cambelt. Bores and pistons were inspected at time and were in good shape. PM me if your interested.
Hi at last I'm getting back to my ABF engine swap, last engine I had sourced the guy backed out at the 11th hour, but pick up a full mk 3 abf engine car at the weekend, it's a Mot fail (on welding) before you said that you were able to make a plug and play engine loom if I send both MK2 & 3 looms too you ??? My car is a 90 spec 8v GTI with hazard light / button on the steering colum, It this offer still available if so what will this genius cost and how long ?? Many thanks Col.
