Ball joint extenders

Discussion in 'Chassis' started by HummuH, Mar 12, 2014.

  1. HummuH Forum Member

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  2. EZ does it Forum Member

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    I've got those ones on my MK2. The wide diameter and shape lend them really nicely to being welded to the uprights, which I have had done and would strongly recommend considering the tight radius at the top (stress concentration), large loads going into it, and implications of a failure.

    I found this picture a while ago which supports my concerns, with evidence of a classic fatigue failure:
    [​IMG]

    And this is what I did to overcome that issue:
    [​IMG]

    On the other hand, the lower section is incredibly stiff and the small bolt acting at such a small distance from the axis of the part makes it really hard to get a satisfactory clamp onto the actual ball joint, which would probably not be an issue with one like the broken one above. I'm still pondering over that issue.
     
    Last edited: Jun 9, 2014
  3. possle Forum Member

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    Bump for this guys, I no its been covered before but, does anyone have a spare set?

    What if these were made from titanium? Any pros and cons?
    Air craft grade stainless steel? Again pros and cons?

    I MAY, repeat MAY be able to get some made, probably one set free but can onky ask the question about getting more.
    Sadly though I wont be able to trail them as my car is off the road, if I can get some made.
     
  4. MUSHY 16V

    MUSHY 16V Moderator Staff Member Moderator

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    I'd avoid stainless steel for this kind of thing it's just not up to the job in this kind of component
    titanium cost and difficult to machine

    I'd be look at something like EN19T or even EN24T and no sharp edge's like the one above had
    Nice big radius

    The thing about it not clamping the ball joint satisfactorily would worry me I've had a ball joint pull out once
    After a mechanic spread the clamp too much and it wasn't clamp right
    Luck I was only doing 30 to 40 at the time
     
  5. possle Forum Member

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    Ive access to machinists, and machines so chances are good.
    Id use bolts that are used on aircraft engines and from experience they are super strong.
    Will note those down and see if they are available
     
  6. MUSHY 16V

    MUSHY 16V Moderator Staff Member Moderator

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    A lot of bolts on aircraft engines are nimonic not sure on what grade as that would depend on what part of the engine they are from
    again it's a form of stainless steel one of the first superalloys very good in high temperatures

    You would have to make sure they are strong enough for the job in this case
    The same would need done with the ball joint extenders to make sure the pin size of the give material was strong enough

    Would be intresting to get Brian to have a look it this and see what he thought

    A lot of the ones I've seen are stamped for race or track use only that says it all don't you think
     
  7. possle Forum Member

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    It certainly would, hopefully he will see it
     
  8. tom.rich Forum Member

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    I have the eBay ones and also some tie rod flip bushings from the same people, I think.

    They look well made, the machining and finish is all clean, I'm not 100% sold on the design but they did work fine when they were on the car before it came off the road - No loosening or play. I suppose the OEM design is simply a slot with a pinch bolt so there's nothing particularly complicated there to start with.

    And not to be argumentative, but the fact some are marked for race/track use is usually just a liability thing. As with many other parts which have it said, it's unfair to say it has any reference to the quality or longevity of a product... someone having an accident on the road which ends up involving other people or property and getting insurance and Police involved, who likely wouldn't know what they were looking at and would want to blame something, is obviously an issue for people making some obscure little bits for old Volkswagens who can't pay massive liability insurance.

    It's just the nature of parts like this, it's safer for a vendor to say something isn't for road use even if they are sure it won't fail without some idiot fitting it poorly or driving up kerbs every day.
     
    Last edited: Jun 9, 2014
  9. possle Forum Member

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    This is the thing.
    Id happily trial them myself but id be driving illegally doing so having the ticket, tax and ins at the moment.
    Im tempted to buy an eBay set and see what I can get made up. Chances are there is more than stainless and titanium available here. But need a set to see what the can do
    If I can get them made from titanium then I cant really see any draw backs, bit I dont know alot about potential metal fatique, how it will react under stress, were as Brian does.
     
  10. mr hillclimber Club GTI Supporter and Sponsor

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    I'd be careful with the ball joint extenders...a friend of mine does a lot of suspension work and has seen ball joints break from what he believes is too much strain from the new working angle that the extenders create.

    On something like a trackday car with no competition rules to follow id look at changing the pick up location or moving the original joint up.*
     
  11. EZ does it Forum Member

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    The reason I mentioned that is that the BJ wobbles around in the extender and causes some nasty bump/camber/torque steer, I've had to basically bond it in with chemical metal to fill the micron gap which has helped a lot but might not last all that long. They were never going to fall out, just felt horrible to drive.
     
  12. vw_singh Events Team Paid Member

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    The set I have were from PMW Ltd in the USA but the website doesn't seem to be about anymore. No slack in my setup and have done very well so far.

    I'd look into using spherical bearings a welded pin like the SCCH setup instead tbh.

    Gurds
     
  13. possle Forum Member

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    Ive just been looking at those vw_Singh. Not sure wether id be able to get those made up here but im certainly looking into it. Going to get a couple of ball joints out the garage and speak to a few people and see what happens.
    If I ever do get something made il post a thread on it providing it will be worth it
     
  14. MUSHY 16V

    MUSHY 16V Moderator Staff Member Moderator

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    You would like to think so but mine pulled out past the bolt
    As you said I did think a bit more bump/torque steer lol
    Then it pulled out coming off a roundabout
    Hate to think what would of happened if it had come out at speed

    The ball joint had just been changed that day

    Sure I read he past away a while back could be wrong mind
    Shame if he did he made some good parts
     
  15. vw_singh Events Team Paid Member

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    The bearing itself looks easy enough as it would just be an appropriately sized bearing housing welded to a flange the would bolt up to the wishbone. It's getting the drop pin machined correctly and welded to the hub that would need to be done with care.

    Gurds
     
  16. EZ does it Forum Member

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    [8(]

    Nasty! hope it didn't do too much damage.
     
  17. possle Forum Member

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    Thanks guys. Some mock up drawing this week and il hand it over and see what they can come up with
     
  18. HummuH Forum Member

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    I was under the impression that the general view was that using ball joint extenders and flipping the tie rods was a tried and tested method of reducing bump steer and helping the car cope with being lowered whilst maintaining proper suspension travel, perhaps more applicable to track/race cars on the Mk2 and Corrado chassis.

    Would I be right to assume from what I've read here that for racing purposes, there are probably more robust/reliable ways of achieving the same?

    Out of interest, if I was to put a Mk3 front and rear end on the Corrado, does this eliminate the need to undertake these changes or do the issues persist?

    Thanks.
     
  19. possle Forum Member

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    Cant answer the mk3 question but from what I read from here and other places.
    Yes they work but there has been failures on some vehicles (other makes on other forums to) and there is the possibilty to improve them.
    Im looking at the moment as there are people around me with the capabilites to make a more robust or revised version, l stronger metals, spherical bearings.
    Some users on here have had great results after lots of R&D in geometry to get thek to work well were as others believe they couod be a problem.

    Im by no means slating other peoples work or the people who already make these, mearly want to have a bash as it were!
     
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  20. sparrow Paid Member Paid Member

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    I know of quite a few people using them. I don't know of any failures, but there have been some. The problem is, no-one knows what caused the failure.
    Bad design? Incorrect assembly? Hit too many kerbs? Badly made/fatigue? Impossible to tell.

    I'm planning on running some on my car. I have some, but haven't fitted them yet. Will be done this summer.

    There are better ways, but you need to be able to basically design and manufacture a replacement upright assembly. Not something I'm capable of, and also probably wouldn't be allowed in many race series as you're modifying the suspension.
    I know of someone who is designing one of these, but I have no idea when it will be completed (if ever), if it's going to be available for general purchase, and what the costs would be. I know they won't be cheap.

    Wouldn't work, same problem.

    A couple of threads:
    http://www.clubgti.com/showthread.p...orsport-Kit-Porn-thread)&highlight=ball+joint
    http://www.clubgti.com/showthread.php?228182-Scrub-radius-and-offset-importance&highlight=ball+joint
     
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