sounds like the fuel rail doesnt have power, if you disturbed the fusebox side at all look for a big yellow plug with a red/black wire, that needs to go to Z/1. check for 12v at the red wire on the fuel rail connector while the fuel pump is running too, the other wire is pulsed by the ecu to fire the injectors. I'm thinking the ecu side is all fine since it ran on brake cleaner
I've changed the steering rack too so I was under the dashboard to disconnect it. What is the Z1 you are talking about? Certain position on the fuse box? While I was under there I noticed a loose string of electrical wire. Not oem. Maybe a previous alarm? It was loose on both ends I think so I put it aside. Maybe I disconnected something while doing that. If anybody has the wirinf scheme that would be great. Thx
Well, seems that rubjohnny was right. While disconnecting the steering I must have somehow dislodged relay 32. Pumpfunction was still ok, however no voltage on injectors. Pushed the relay back in completely, showed 12 v on red wire at injectors. Started right up after that. Tonight : tighten driveshafts Check exhaust Try to set ignotion at 6 btdc And then testdrive. Up till now, all the time consuming interventions were caused by waiting for parts or troubles linked to other things like brake swap. Otherwise this is a pretty straightforward swap. I'll keep you posted how she runs. PS: setting ignition advance is at 2500 rpm, blue temp swith disconnected and 6 btdc right?
Well, first ride this evening. However, no ignition set, ran out of time. Car runs better than before, torque is better, seems to pull longer too. G60 brakes are a difference too. Will do ignition timing this week.
Finished some deatils yesterday, tonight we will be doing the ignition timing and CO. Took her for a spin. Engine has more torque and a nice clean pull up to 6K rpm. I don't rev that high often, but was just checking it out. Speedo doesnt'work, this is the Mk3 GTI trans, cable fitted nicely, no speedo however? Cable broken? The gear at the end of the cable seeems to be the same as the one on the MK3 electronic sensor. Oil temp seems low, need to check it out. I had a 20 min ride at a nice pace, took ages to warm up, never exceeded 76C... The previous engine was immediately above 85C and as soon as I started running around between 90 and 100... Could the sensor on the MK3 oil filter housing be different than the MK2? Or a wiring issue? The water temp on the dash doesn't seem to move, I suspect a wiring issue, bad ground for the sensor? If I remember correct, this is the black sensor on the head-flange, a NTC sensor, so bad ground could be the issue. A bit annoyed by these two problems as I don't seem to have any reliable info on engine temperature...
the speedo gear is a bit fiddly to seat correctly, there is a pin on the end which needs to drop into a hole machined into the bottom of the bellhousing otherwise the gear wont engage with the diff drive gear. when you coem to fit it wiggle the gear around in circles till you feel it locate and drop down into the hole the mk3 oil temp sensor is a different part number so its probably not the same rating, swap the mk2 one over and see. for the dash temp its the 2 pin black one on the front flange, if you loop a wire between the pins the dash should go to full. if not try earthing the red/yellow wire. if that helps, you have a bad earth somewhere. The earth for the sensor goes all the way to the fusebox F/4 on a CE2 engine loom
Been a busy two days this... Got a lot done, including some unexpected stuff. Started yesterday with geometry on the car. Since engine, steering rack and front brakes have all been changed, the car needed some setting up. It was a bit nervous on the road. Geometry done by a local specialist, car feels a lot more planted on the road now. While returning from the geometry on my way to a friend to do ignition and CO, the car developped a squealing sound front left. New G60 brakes pad holder was touching the disc. Strange... Back home found out I had not put in the outside circlips of the wheel bearing when I replaced it, so driving was pushing the bearing, hub and disc outside. Replaced the bearing, everything fixed but a couple of hours lost. Ignition advance was set up at 6 BTDC. Had to adjust quite a lot, but had no problem setting it up. CO was set at 1%, seemed best compromise between 0,6% of the VW manual and the 1,5% people on the forum say. In the meantime i had some noises coming from under the hood, apparently the throttle linkage was touching the hood. This was annoying, cut a piece out of the support ridge on the underside of the hood. So Finally today I had some time to drive it without worries. The car has a lot more grunt from idle on. It pulls very strong from 2000 to 6000 rpm, I seem to be shifting around 5000 rpm all the time when charging, always keeping it in the torquey zone. Idle is as before, stable at around 900rpm Fuel consumption has to be checked, too much setting up to have a good reading. Tomorrow I will drive it in a local oldtimer rally at night, will have a better idea about performance after that. Next steps: Look out for a nice exhaust (now has a TA technix mainifold 60 mm which then goes into oem spec 50mm exhaust with 3 dampers) Maybe a cam? (alltough I really like the power from lowdown) Custom chip will be written in March. But first: drive it! The engine The cutout from the hood MK3 breather The new setup for the ISV Let me know if these pics show up, I'm trying something else with google pics.
Some updates after saturday night where I drove the Gti in a local oldtimer rally. Car runs great, as told before, more grunt all around. On the 60+ miles I only came into first gear after a standstill, the rest of the time amways in 2-3-4. G60 Brakes are a significant improvement, however they tend to squeal when they get hot. (probably the pads, discs are Zimmermann vented). Powersteering is a nice plus in the tight corners. However, car runs fine but water temp only rises a little bit and drops back to 0 as soon as we did higher speeds. The oil temp got to a max of 88 C, when charging really hard against a Toyota Supra. So I guess the thermostat is stuck open. Will be replacing that this week. Any tips for the change? I guess the PS pump and bracket has to come off?
pics work fine here yeah drop the ps pump off to gain access to the thermostat housing, if you're careful you dont need to split the pipes off it just lower the pump out the way
If it drops back to zero (and you may not be literal) then I would suspect a faulty sensor, get a real guage with actual Degrees for your water and let us know For power you generally want water cold and oil hot. I would say 88 for oil is a bit low, 100 min up to 120 gives plenty of safety. As a comparison point pro race cars run really hot oil with modern syntethetic, I saw a Tech article where they run Mobil 1 (for Le Mans GTE Corvettes) to a sustained 160 deg C and that is off the shelf oil (unlike the Porsche LMP1 cars which is a special)
Changed the thermostat. Fired her up, immediately felt upper rad hose warm up and lower hose stay cool. For the first time in ages, temp gauge moved also! So I guess the thermostat needed replacing! Took her for a spin, temp gauge showed something between 1/4 and 1/2, before it didn't even move... Oil temp while driving calm was between 96 and 102 C. A bit high, but I'll check later if it stays that high.
Wouldn't be to fussed if that is cruising, as long as it spends some time over 100 to boil off any condensation
Last night I used the GTI to take something to a friend, including highway trafic. On the highway, 15 km @ 90mph, oil temp was at 102-106C. When on normal roads, 96 to 102. I gues that's normal. My ABF was cooler a couple of years back. Not going to worry too much. Which oil would you recommend? I've got 5W40 ELF full synth in there, as that's what we have at work.
I am a fan of Full Syn Fuchs is excellent quality to value (Don't get Quantum here) but any name brand, just know that not all "Full Synthetics" are actually devoid of Mineral based oils If you ever get curious I would look at a site called Bob is the Oil Guy (sounds cheesy but it isn't!), and read Oil university 101
Thanks to all for the advice. Engine is running OK now. Now the time has come to start fine-tuning it. I am looking at cleaning up the engine bay, check everything is working as it should and after that maybe a better exhaust, alltough I don't want too much noise. First two questions: A)How can I check if the oxygen sensor in the exhaust is working, and the Ecu is adjusting accordingly? B) apparantly the car is running other than original 8v injectors?. They are green and have the number 280150905 stamped on them. If I look that number up, they are G60 injectors with a flow rate of +260 cc. Too much for an 8v. Can the Ecu adjust to this? Car runs fine , smooth idle etc... Would I gain anything in installing the original blie ones for Digifant?
Time for an update: As you can see, car has been driven frequently and hard since last year. What has been done since the 2.0 conversion? -correct blue injectors: crispy response in mid revs, little less high up the rev range -changed brake pads: the noise insulation layer on the back of the pads was realeasing causing a mushy pedal feel: pads without this layer: hard pedal -complete Jetex 2,5 inch exhaust with first 3 then 2 dampers -had 16 inch Borbet C's on, sold them, prefer look and feel of Sebring wheels Car has been very reliable and I really enjoy driving it. I drive it often and in all weather circumstances. With winter approaching, it won't be long before I put it in my garage and start some work on it... -I want too replace the suspension bushings, they are shot. -I'm being offered a Cat Cams 279 cam, anybody any experience? Always on the look for some more power but don't want too sacrifice too much driveability. -thorougly clean interior -clean engine bay Any other things I could do during the winter? this is not a showcar, it's meant to be driven...
