Wow, thats cool. Driving that you would definately get looks, a mk1 on a N reg!! Have you got any pics of the interior? Anyways heres my 1.6 airbox: Yours does not have the warm air feed, so what rubjonny was saying is that you can replace yours with a 1.6/1.8 carb airbox. Not sure about controling the flap, but you can force it to the warm air feed. Not sure if you can see clearly from pic2, but my pipe is as close as possible to the manifold. PS: It may be an idea to change you fuel filter, compare yours to mine
you can see the warm air flap controller on the side of the airbox, its the bit with 2 vac hoses in Simply find a vac line thats either blanked off, or chop one and insert a T piece. You could just wedge the flap open with a self-tap screw!
Thanks, somone on the mk1 forums said the same thing and you can drill in to that flap and bolt it open! Looks like the end piece will fit on no problem, What spec is yours so i can phone up and ask VW for one - any other place that sell them? btw - new fuel filter is on, that was an early pic when i first got the car, it's also alot cleaner
So having warm air all the time will be ok? what is the ppurpose of the flap then, is that so it gets warm when cold and cold air when warm? Thanks
Mines a 1.6 carbed engine code EZ, although the 1.8 carb engine has the same airbox. Yes having warm air all the time is fine. Everytime I check my flap, its opened, allowing warm air through, even in summer.
Cool! I'll try and get a length of large bore hose from work and give it a go on the end of my inlet, if it works i'll get the proper one! - No point wasting money if it does not solve the problem! Just got some 50mm flexibale airduct. the metal stuff may give that a go! Thanks again
Check the battery - 12.5V and 14.2 volts when running, so that rules that out Quick question about the fuel filter, how much fuel should i be able to see in it running or not? Thanks
I wouldnt say it was knackered, maybe a bit worn. Anything over 13v will still be charging the battery!
Just checked it again, on idle -14.2V - everything on - 13.8V I thought that would be fine! I may inspect the reg and get a new one as they are only a tenner
Thanks, Well the car was fine going home last night and fine coming this morning, although it was alot dryer - so i am going to attach the alluminumk air duct today so she sucks up warm air and see how that goes! As i'm here any ideas on why my temp light (the one behind the temp gauge) sometimes randomlly flashes) as there is no level indicator on the expansion tank? Thanks
Which one is the temp sensor, is that the one on the side of the head? It's different then to 16V yes? as that light was the low watre indicator on the header tank, is this light on my mk1 triggered by that sensor then? I have a few left from my valver - would that sensor be ok as it looks like the same size?
I'm not sure on your engine, usually on 8vs its found in the coolant channel on the front of the block, has a yellow/red wire. The light is also triggered when the engine is overheating, but if the temp sensor fails the red light comes on and the guage goes to max, tho if its only failing intermittantly the guage wont have a chance to move
Ok thanks, I thought the one for the gauge and the light were 2 differnent sensors! The gauge works fine. Maybe it is the clocks although it did the same on the original clocks! I have 3 sensors - one for the gauge/light, one for the oil pressure on top of the oil filter unit and one on the side of the head - not sure what this is for? Also the oil pressure light is constantly on what ever! if i unplug it, it flickers all the time! Make any sense?
I got the coolant sensor on the side of the side, above the gearbox, on the metal flange. I think my one is for the gauge/light - although Im not 100% sure.
the one on the side of the head is the low pressure warning switch, and the one on the oil filter housing is the high pressure warning switch Flickering light may be a symptom of the revs dropping a little low, I had this on my GTI when the idle was dropping too far.
Thanks at least i know what they are all for, So do the high and low switches actuivate the same ligt on the dash? if so this maybe an indication of different wirng on these new clocks compared to the old one! How does the sensor activate the light? is there a small current in these wires and when the sensor reaches a warning ohmz it earths the wire?
Yeah sorry, Alternator's fine, i missunderstood your post, i didn't realise 12.5 was without the engine running. I skim read and assumed you'd followed this:
