I`ve got a 1990 MK2 GTi 8v, but has the 2.0 16V fitted from the MK3. I have the MK2 haynes manual, but obviously, that only refers to the 1.8 regarding changing the cambelt and tensioner. I`m happy to have a go changing the belt on the 2.0, but is there anything specific I need to know, thats different from the 8V ? tried looking in the FAQ, but there is only a guide for the 8V and a link to another site that no longer works. If it sounds like its going to be too hard, I`ll take it to a garage, but I`m assuming (maybe incorrectly), that if I ensure the timing marks line up, engine is at TDC, fit belt and tension so it turns through 90dgrees then turn enging 2 full revolutions by hand, i`ll be OK. I know thats simplifying it a lot, but thats the basic idea.. Nige.
yes quite easy to change and youve got the idea but a word of warning, although i havent got it to hand right now my haynes manual says something about a special tool needed to set the tension. idont know exactly what it means by this ie to tighten tensioner or measure tension on belt.
thanks. I read about the tool myself, but it says you can use the 90 degrees method if you dont have it, although the proper tool is preferred... Nige.
the tool they are on about is this it fits into the 2 small holes in the tensioner and allows easy adjustment
for a tenner i'd get one mate as i'd say if you've done it once the hard way you'd wish you had the right tool as it makes it much easier to do, plus you have the tool for the next time you do one, they fit all vw's that use that tensioning method, so you could poss sell it on if you dont use it again lol
Thats fine, I`ll get one then. as you say, if it makes it easier, its worth it. I finally bought one of the piston pushing back tools last week, after years of managing with screwdrivers and pliers to push pistons back in and turn them. god, I wish I`d bought one years ago !!!!
you can use two small allen keys, pressed against each other if you don't want to pay out for the tool.
this is a photo of my tensioner from this pic of the belt, can anyone tell how worn it looks? I know its subjective, but I thought it looked ok...
Tensioner The belt looks ok but i wouldn't trust that tensioner to work much longer! Once you have all the stuff out of the way to enable you to change the tensioner you may as well do the belt as well for a small bit of extra hassle. At least then you know it's been done and if you don't know when it was last changed that'll give you peace of mind. That tool does make it a lot easier, i tensioned mine by hand 3 or 4 times before getting a tool. GSF do one for about a tenner. James.
cheers James, I was thinking the same, if I do it, thats it then, i`ll KNOW and wont worry about it. do you know which tensioner it is from looking at that photo?
On a similar note, does anyone know where you can buy an inexpensive tension measuring tool? They say the 'by hand' method is okay for 8V engines, but for 16V motors the tension is more critical and should be measured accurately.
its critical to get it right on any car tbh, the last thing you want is for it to jump teeth or rip and kill the motor
the tensioner looks like the type that has a tension guage built into it (in the shadows at the top I'd change both the tensioner & cam belt as you have no idea the history. and a belt + ten is far cheaper that belt,ten, 16 Valves head gasket & engineering work!! the last snapped belt I 'fixed' the belt looked fin all apart from the snap, the internal integrity of the fibres are impossible to judge
oak, would you suggest I buy the proper tool then? I have no idea how much they cost. If its a lot, would it be worth taking it to a garage and paying them to check the tension? I will be changing both Belt & Tensioner, seems silly to just do 1 and not the other..
