have a look here mate, they seem to do them at a good price, i'd send it to a garage only if your not upto doing it yourself mate http://www.toolsinstock.com/index.php
I can see the tool to tension the belt, but I think what we are after is one that makes sure it is tensioned enough. Haynes says use VW tool 210 and set to between 13 & 14 , but i dont know what that is..
http://www.toolsinstock.com/index.php?act=viewProd&productId=13852 measures tension, but of course we'd need to know what VW's 13-14 means. Also, 46.86 isn't funny, for a tool you'd probably use once every 2 years.
is it not like the one in the pic above? your cam belt that is mate, i'd go for the turn through 90 degrees but its upto you m8
that tool earlier is for tightening the tensioner, not checking the actual tension. I was going to use the 90 degrees check, but some posts suggested it was more critical... 46 is too much for such an infrequent use. once every 2 years ! blimey, I wont do it that often....
that tool you listed for for checking belt tension, the belt slides between the lugs and pushes on the rod in the middle and it lines up on the side when its at the correct tension, the tool i listed is for adjusting the tensioner pulley use the 90 degree method, will be ok, i listed the other tool for making tensioning easier that was all
You may as well simply buy a pair of right-angle circlip pliers, they're going to get more use and would probably cost the same or less.
it is the MK3 engine, 2.0 16V but I have no idea what model the tensioner is...... ??? How do I know if it has the gauge built in, and if it does, how do I read it so I know what to tension it up to when I fit the new tensioner ? So many questions, but I think its best to ask BEFORE I start taking things apart. If I know what belt and tensioner to get, I`ll get them. Got some info off the Engine. I think the Engine number is: ABF 048 952 Head casting: 051 103 373 (O or D after, cant tell) Cam belt details: 5399XS, Power Grip, HSN, 470AG, 9015 x 25mm. Thats all the info I could get from the belt itself. Does that help identify what sort of tensioner I need? Nige.
I'd change that belt - I was always taught that one sign the belt needs changed is when you can see the teeth from the "wrong" side of the belt. As far as tensioning it, on KR engines I have always used the 90degree method on 8v's and the 45degree on 16v's - never had a problem.
Guys, I AM Changing the Belt and tensioner, what i`m after is any useful info you can give me that I dont have in the Haynes manual, or from experience. The manual I have is for the MK2 GTI, but my car has the 2.0 16V ABF from the MK3 (which I dont have the manual for). Is the procedure the same regarding lining up marks on pulleys etc. I am unsure about which type my tensioner is, from the comments is seems to be a tensioner with gauge built in, I didnt know they made such a thing. How do I use the built in `gauge` to let me know when the tension is correct? The belt is currently fairly tight and take a lot of force to get to 90degrees, but 45 is ok, so I am pretty confident I can replicate the tension when I fit the new one. Advice is always welcome, thanks guys. Nige.
Today I changed the timing belt & Tensioner !!! Made sure I marked up everything, the Cam belt pulley: and the Crankshaft pulley. Removing the crankshaft pulley was a pain, which I thought it may be. The allen head bolts were just about seized, the first attempt was by using the correct 6mm allen key, unfortunately, it wasnt strong enough Deciding subtlety wasnt the answer, I resorted to brute force, a 12mm socket hit with a suitable hammer was a nice fit on the outside of the head and with a long extension and torque wrench, I was able to free all 4 bolts. Removing the 2 pulleys at the end of the crankshaft was not easy, they were rusted on and required use of a home made puller and hammer (see a pattern forming here? if I`m not sure, use a hammer..) anyway, once all the pulleys and cambelt cover were removed, I marked every pulley with tippex on the pulley and belt. The belt was removed and I went to buy a replacement. The belt was no problem, but I tried getting the 1.8 16V tensioner as they are cheaper, but unfortunately, they were out of stock so I had to get the proper 2.0 16V one at 32 insted of 20. More expense.... New tensioner when installed: Refitting involved careful counting of the teeth between marks on the old belt and transferring them to the new one, I then simply fitted the new belt, ensuring the tippex lined up on all pulleys, fitted the tensioner and adjusted using some pliers, the proper tool is 10 and I managed quite well without it.... I turned over the engine by hand for 2 full revolutions to check no valves were getting intimate with the pistons and when I was sure they were behaving themselves, I refitted the spark plugs, covers, pulleys and air filter, I made sure I cleaned the centre of the pulleys and smeared the centre and mating faces with grease so next time, there is a chance they`ll come off a little easier. Why that wasnt done last time i`ll never know.... First turn of the key and I was still apprehensive but it started first time. Oh happy days. for info if it helps anyone in future: SKF Tensioner from GSF: 13141, 051-109-243A @ 32.50 Belt from GSF: 13109B, 048-109-119G @ 18.50.
Agreed. You really ought to use the pukka tool, and probably replace them too. If you're going to replace them, there's always the option to grind the heads off.
I`m getting some new ones, my local main dealer didnt have any in stock, so they will be here next week, i`ll change them one at a time so should be OK for next time !
Good work, it's always a pain the first time you change the belt on a 'new' car, should be much easier next time.
Well done Nige, seems like you did a good, methodical job. By the looks of it it would seem that your 2.0 engine was siting out in the rain for some time! that couldn't have made it any easier to get the bolts off. If it's any consolation i have broken a couple of tools trying to get bolts out of my 8v. And rounded one of the allen heads and had to grind/drill it out. PaulC, what is the 'pukka tool' you mentioned? Is there something better than a hammer and an angle grinder? James.
James, Yeah, its about 18 years since I last did one, so I was a little apprehensive, but once I got going, it went well. Try the 12mm socket hammered over the bolts, its a lovely fit and really helped me. I do need 4 new bolts afterwards, but at 75p each, I can stretch to that. The proper tool is a http://www.toolsinstock.com/index.php?act=viewProd&productId=102 thats 1/4" drive, but you get the idea I. Well, I assume thats the tool he meant... Code for info is : N-90348704 and you need 4 off.
