Think my hall sender is stuffed. Got a 2E bootom end/PB head + digifant. Picked up a new dizzy from GSF but only has one 'window' on the metal cover on the shaft, the old dizzy has 4. At the 90/180/270/0 positions the window alines with the sender to get a signal. Now there is only one window i only get a signal at the 0' position, 90/180/270 there is no window so no signal. make sense? Ideas? To complicated for me but on a 2e does it act same idea as crank trigger and gives the ecu the 0' position and ecu/coil pack works out the other 3 sparks? just odd that designs changed
next stoopid Q.................. took it back to GSF, no 2E dizzys. Did get a new hall sender unit though (you know whats coming next) Do i drive roll pin out and pull shaft off or carefully pop the metal cap off top?
Yep, pull roll pin is what you need to do. Be careful not to chip the drive gear teeth as they are brittle.
yep pull the window up off the shaft after removing the snap ring http://www.race.nangreaves.com/golf/FU03/ch5.3.1.html
Indeed, it is lucky for The King of R&R, but yet another example of evolutionary modern sheit in the AGG engine.
evolution means no more timing lights and dodgy co meters though, im all for it personally. but then i like computers too, and i also like the fact that my car is now an accessory for my laptop
Hall sensor: 1 Check that the ignition system wiring and plugs are fitted correctly. 2 The coil and TCI-H unit must both be in good condition. 3 Pull the HT lead from the centre of the distributor cap and earth it to the engine or bodywork. 4 Pull back the rubber boot from the switch unit and connect a voltmeter between terminals 6 and 3. 5 Switch on the ignition and turn the engine by hand in its normal direction of rotation. The voltage should alternate from between 0 and a minimum of 2 volts. If not, the sender is faulty and must be renewed.
we progress............... did the most basic job last tightened one earth on bulkhead that was a little loose. the digifant loom has been stripped back as its fitted in me transporter , there is a 'bit' where 4 earths join and are crimped together in factory. stripped all 4 back with nice clean tails about an inch long and twisted em all together (ive only just done it, batteries in torch plat, and its raining) now when i turn the key the pump is continually priming (oh , and fitted known working ecu ) is the ecu earthed thr the mounting frame to body as i just pluued multi plug in and left it casually lieing about on top of engine) ideas?
Oh no, I do hope you have not done the cardinal sin of popping a Digipants ECU by having a bad earth. Seeing as it is getting technical in here now, any chance of stating what engine and management you are running, oh and I guess this is in a T3 van too.
check the injectors, if they're just stuck open circuit yep you have blown your ecu. the pump priming might have been a wiring error
k, checked again today. ecu IS earthed properly, for some reason i thought i hadnt earthed it, has always been earthed properly straight to bulkhead. my old ecu primes for 3 seconds and stops. the new one i fitted last night continuously primes and does have continuous 12v across injector terminals. back to drawing board.................. is it possible to have a fecked ecu that DOSNT continuously prime? pulling me hair out now. im proper mong and even i know digifant has about 3 wires (ok 19 or 20) and is fairly basic. new coil/dizzy/amplifier. ideas?
took off cowling and the multiplug was only half/ two thirds on. would this have caused it? am i this weeks prize knob?
