Dodgy starting idle

Sorry if someones already said this (I did try to quickly scan the page) check the wiring to the idle switch on the throttle body, particularly inside the multiplug rubber boot.

 

Well I swapped the wires about on the temp senders to check they're all working and as far as I can tell they are since all three caused a reading on both the oil temp display in the mfa and on the coolant guage.
The throttle wasn't coming to rest on the switch if it was released slowly so I corrected that. The ISV didn't buzz when I turned the key this morning so it idled at 2,000rpm again but 20 metres down the road it was perfect. I don't know if the ISV started working? Checked when I got to work and it wasn't running so I'm still not sure if it was having the switch being closed that made a difference.

The revs did alter when I opened the throttle and closed the switch, could hear the engine note change which must mean the switch is ok. Discovered the wiring to the WUR has been 'fixed' so not sure if this is causing a problem.

Little question: How do I get the spades out of the moulded connectors to the CSV? Just one wire is broken so I wanna fix it but couldn't see how to get it out. Far too close to the connector to splice another wire in place.
Edited by: Mark16v

 

Reckon the scrappies will be the best bet. The Audi 16v cold start valves are in the same place at the front of the inlet manifold?

 

I was gonna say most of the connectors are pretty identical apart from their colour so I should be ok. This job would be a load easier if I could lay my hands on a multi-meter

 

5 delivered to my door... You're certainly right! Lets hope it doesn't take an age to get here from Hong Kong otherwise I may have gone mad and petrol bombed my car

 

Well I can confirm that the micro switch on the throttle has definately made a difference. Driving to work the engine idles at 2,000 once its started but 10 metres down the road its back to normal. The cold start valve as mentioned isn't affecting it so I'm gonna try disconnecting the WUR to see if thats the source of my problems.

Had half the dash out last night removing bits left over from old car alarm installations and stereo systems. The amount of crap behind my dash was phenominal Someone had left an old alarm siren under the speedo FFS Shouldn't have been doin it so late tho, got pitch black when I was puttin stuff back in so I now no longer have a working stereo and the rear left brake light comes on occasionally Don't think the girlfriend will appreciate another evening of me out in the car swearing and punching the horn

 

Its normal for the engine to rev up to 2k rpm on a cold start, then settle to normal after 30secs or so, sounds like the throttle microswitch was the problem.

 

Thats the problem tho, the revs don't settle for a good few minutes. When I change gear they stick at the revs the clutch was released at for a good 3 minutes on especially cold mornings.

Another quick question... When driving in second gear and I release the accelerator the car jerks quite harshly sometimes. This is to do with the switch since when it wasn't being engaged it never did it but is there a way to soften it a bit? Foot on accelerator and the car jerks back a touch, foot off and it jerks forwards a touch

 

Only skimmed through the post but the last couple of points sounds like a sticky throttle cable to me. Mine had similar symptoms a while back, sorted it by replacing cable and resetting throttle microswitch position.

 

Would the symptoms of a sticky cable disappear once the engine has warmed up tho? There's definately a problem electrics wise as the ISV isn't continually on as it should be. I'll take a look at the throttle cable just in case tho, other than the switch clicking what else needs to be checked?