Dual Mass Flywheels - replace, upgrade or swap to Single Mass?

Volvo needs a new clutch and DMF, but I have the following options:

1) Replace DMF and clutch with OEM (LUK) brand
2) Replace DMF but replace clutch for an uprated clutch kit (even an option for 6 paddle)
3) Swap DMF to a Single Mass Flywheel and put up with the extra noise/vibrations

What is the general view when people's DMF's fail? I'm open to ideas for a long term solution but I'm sure people on here know more about general DMF failures and which brands (be it Sachs or LUK) that are known for premature failures.

What route have people gone down the past and why? Any mecahnics on here with daily knowledge from other customers cars what is the best course of action

 

just be wary of no-brand anything

here is the pressure plate i took off a mk4 a few weeks back. it was a 12 month old Valeo item on a mk4 1.8t





obv ive never worked on volvos but with the level or torque you have id only want decent stuff in there. no chance you can ask a volvo board?

 

Plenty of threads of D5 DMF's but 99% of owners just replace like for like with OEM which naturelly cures it, but I will know it could fail in the near future; one guy's D5 running a fair wedge of power and torque has gone for a CG Motorsports 6 paddle clutch kit and recommends going down that route. However again read on mkivs that paddle clutches and stock DMF's again will just lead to a short DMF life.

I've e-mailed CG motorsports as they do an uprated sports kit too for their opinion what combination of their clutch and flywheels they recommend with my torque output. Other options apparently is using the later 185hp D5 clutch set up, but think it needs modifying so not sure my mechanic will be happy to do that. My mechanic is on to looking at getting an uprated clutch and SMF for me as it'll save me a few pennies too and hopefully allow me to use the torque more reliably!

That Valeo looks sh@gged! Don't think mine's at that stage!!!

 

Is it possible to change the clutch in and leave the original DMF in place?

My clutch is starting to make the odd complaint, but I'd rather not pay 1000 to replace it.

 

yes, but depending on the car and age, the dmf becomes a consumable item sooner or later

 

Cool, I was thinking it HAD to be changed when the clutch wore out.

It's 2001, about 110k miles. I doesn't seem to be playing up, but I wouldn't know what signs to keep an eye out to show it's playing up. I understand the theory of them.

 

which engine is it with?

one girl on here had a new clutch put in a 20vt at 112k maybe 4 years ago.

4 years later the dmf failed at 150k miles so the labour cost was replicated again.

 

2.5 V6 Tdi so it's knee deep in torks!

TBH I'd take a double labour charge 4 years apart if I can put off the extra 400+ cost for the DMF (ECP prices).

I love the car dearly, but I'm on half the money I was on when I first got it and the running costs are becoming an issue.

I might sell it and get a 4 pot Tdi estate instead. [:^(]

 

From what I've been told there are 'tolerance' tests that can be done to inspect the DMF, but its not set in stone that it'll mean the DMF will last.

Currently awaiting advice on an uprated clutch but ideally would like to try a Sach's DMF this time round instead of the OEM LUK item.

 

i really dont think there is a big difference between sachs and luk standard items tbh

 

I don't think there is either, just thought if the 2nd DMF to fail on my car is also a LUK item them might give Sach's the benefit of the doubt.

However waiting to find out more if I can go single mass instead and look for possibly a more powerful map once I know they're strong enough to cope with the torque

 

Yes get rid of DMF, they are a daft idea and just a liability
I'm told some of the manufacturers have already started moving away from them, but don't have details to quote
As for a solid giving you more noise and vibration, no i don't think so.
Local independent VW specialist tells me they are changing most of them between 40k and 80k miles
I find that really shocking
Got 100k out of my 130pd when it was just starting to chatter but then the selectors in my early six speed snapped so it all had to come apart anyway
Modern VW rubbish............

 

what is it people have against dual mass!!! if your running monstor power or torque or 1/4 mile racing then fair doos but for ever day use they are fine!

my old mk4 115bhp pd was on200k when I sold it and that was on the orig clutch and fly wheel! my new audi had the clutch done at 120k as I thought the dual mass was clicking... but it turns out it wasnt and when it was changed it was fine and the clutch only 1/2 worn and that was on a 175bhp engine with just shy of 300lbft of torque!

the dual mass is used to isolate the harsh viabrations from the engine improving comfort for the driver, BUT it also helsp to protect the gearbox as well!! I have been told by one of the old boys who works here who used to be in the van indusry working for a manufacturer, and before that worked for a friction material maker, that ford had some slight issues with a dual mass, so a quick fix they started fiting normal clutch and fly wheels to the vans... then had gear boxes go instead!

if you drive it very very hard then yes a dual mass might give up, but if its not the dual mass then something else will give instead!

 

Well been told that the uprated clutch will go hand in hand with the DMF, so all is great. But problem is even if it turns out the DMF is fine I will have to decide to replace the DMF with the new clutch or run the risk of using the old DMF and hope its fine.

DMF and clutch has only been on the car for 40k, of which haven't been driven hard as its a motorway cruiser.

Can't say for 100% sure the DMF or clutch is OEM, but should be looking at the prices for the parts alone but with 320lb/ft I need to be assured that I do the replacement right first time around to avoid more money being thrown due to the labour costs!

 

euro car parts, get a LUK clutch and fly, it will be cheaper than oe and i would say like vw LUK would be the oe supplier.

for my audi the parts from VW were 450+ iirc, from euro for the same bits it was 350 or so,

personally if you could afford it I would fit a new dual mass, just in case, it like when you fit a new cam belt. you fit a new water pump, even if everything seems fine you still do it just for peace of mind

 

Volvo DMF is made by LUK from what i've read up on Volvo forums. DMF is 380 (LUK), uprated clutch is around 300 and labour is 6 hours based on ECP for the DMF and 300 for a CG motorsport clutch.

 

Why any normal daily driver diesel owner would want to run a SMF is a mystery that I'll never understand. Have you HEARD what they sound like at idle ? I'd imagine most of the time you'd have pedestrians walking up to you at traffic lights to tell you the engine sounds like its fallen apart!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Vb9Z6O_Czow

Anyway... for the OP: Uprated clutch, ok, try it if you don't want OEM, But, I REALLY would stress having a test drive before purchasing a 6 Paddle 'race' clutch. Organic is the answer for most cars unless highly modified or 1/4 mile racing.

Toffs

 

DMF and original clutch on my old audi estate 20vt, remaped to 180bhp 15k ago, coming up to 130k now and its fine, even done some track time. Whereas my cupra DMF failed at 70k but clutch had plenty left, replaced with GSF stuff and now runs 230ish bhp with 105k on the clock obviously all still fine.

 

Ive gone from a dmf to a solid mass on my audi (20vt) and it does now chatter a little when ac is on,other than that its fine and lighter on the pedel than the dmf...unless it was worn.

 

Ford mechanic told me dmf's fail because of heat related problem
driving at 30 in 5th, pulling away in 2nd etc.
take it out of gear in trafic, the high mileage motorway cars seem to go over 100k.