Fusebox FAQ

Discussion in 'Electrical' started by rubjonny, Jul 30, 2010.

  1. tolga063 New Member

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  2. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    your crank sensor plug & wiring is pretty trashed, I would start with that (3 pin plug with the damage around the rear to the pins, red/yellow, green/black and brown/blue) check the crank sensor itself also, if its cracked anywhere you should replace it. ideally get a vagcom cable and scan it for faults, if you check the ECU measuring blocks with vag-com you can see all the sensor inputs in real time. if you look at the 'engine speed' block, this should go up while cranking, if it doesnt then crank sensor is bad.

    overall the wiring loom looks pretty bad, might be worth taking the loom from the engine round plug and strip it all back for repair
     
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  3. tolga063 New Member

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    I took a crank, plugged in, tried, guinea didn't work, guess brain gone
     
  4. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    I would check the wiring between crank sensor and ecu next, as I say the crank sensor plug is pretty damaged. if it has a motorised throttle body does that make any sound with ignition on?
     
  5. tolga063 New Member

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    There is no problem in the cable between krang and ecu distributor and coil, there is no problem in the intermediate cables, I looked today, there is a broken or something die no we used one vag com p0123 and p0301
     
  6. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    P0123 is throttle pedal and P0310 is missfire code. I guess the first one is the main issue, but clear the codes and see what comes back.

    in vagcom if you go into the ecu you can select 08-measuring blocks, which will then show you all your sensor inputs in real time. the engine speed block will tell you if the crank sensor is working, and you can seer the throttle position as you work the pedal as well. check all the other blocks you find to see if anything else looks out of place

    on my abf I had intermittent cut out issues, I found the crank sensor pins had been pulled out of the back of the ecu plug slightly so even though they tested ok with multimeter the ecu couldnt see the crank signal from time to time
     
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  7. tolga063 New Member

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    [QUOTE = "rubjonny, posta: 2489378, üye: 735"] P0123 gaz pedalı ve P0310 yanlış ateşleme kodudur. Sanırım birincisi asıl mesele, ama kodları temizleyin ve neyin geri döndüğüne bakın.

    vagcom'da ecu'ya girerseniz, 08 ölçüm bloklarını seçebilirsiniz, bu da size tüm sensör girişlerinizi gerçek zamanlı olarak gösterir. motor devri bloğu size krank sensörünün çalışıp çalışmadığını söyleyecektir ve pedalı çalıştırırken gaz kelebeği konumunu da görebilirsiniz. başka bir şeyin yerinde görünüp görünmediğini görmek için bulduğunuz diğer tüm blokları kontrol edin

    abf'imde aralıklı kesinti sorunları yaşadım, krank sensörü pimlerinin ecu fişinin arkasından biraz çekildiğini gördüm, bu yüzden multimetre ile iyi test etmelerine rağmen ecu zaman zaman krank sinyalini göremiyordu [/ QUOTE ]
    Thanks i found why it is not working ecu 12v no, i connected the relay, it works now
     
  8. AndyBa Paid Member Paid Member

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    This relates to my 91 BB 8v GTI CE2 and connecting "extras" to the fusebox.
    I've partially installed heated seats, aircon and I have a heated windscreen too.
    Looking at the CE2 Fuse box diagrams shared by RJ it looks like I should connect them all up to the free spades behind connector "D Green".

    I've dropped the fusebox and taken a few pics, not the best I'm afraid.

    Questions:
    Which type of connector do i insert into the blank - My pic shows one from a MK3 Golf fog light connector - Is that the correct type? I have a whole engine loom to pick over!
    Can I use any free slot in "D Green" regardless of the above "extra" - assume so?
    What is the best way of connecting the "extra" wire to the connector. Not sure if i can undo the wire clamp. Do i just solder on top, butt solder?

    Thanks in advance.

    Andy

    https://ibb.co/JkQm6DS
    https://ibb.co/VHphzQV
    https://ibb.co/mzrgxc6
    https://ibb.co/PxT6sc4
     
    Last edited: Nov 10, 2020
  9. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    Plug D takes 'junior timer' or 'power timer' type pins, widely available everywhere. the pin pictured nicked out of a mk3 loom will do you fine.

    to get them out bent paperclip or hairpin, or some have ground down the metal strip pinched out of a wiper blade. there are proper tools available also, but to get one which is actually decent will set you back a bit and not really worth it for the sake of a couple pins. back in the day I used a couple watchmaker screwdrivers, was quite frustrating but did the job eventually :lol:

    one way to go if you have a lot of extras to install is nick a mk3 golf D plug loom with the associated jumper blocks from a donor car, chop a load of the jumper wires off as well then you can use these on your car. will need to de-pin 2 or 3 wires out of the mk2 D plug and pop to the mk3 jumpers to get it all together. there will usually be ignition live for glovebox light, an illumination feed plus ignition live to the heated washer jets.

    then itys just a case of pop your extra wires into the right slots making note of what each feed is using my guide, as they aren't all ignition live. also anything labelled as 'X-live' is live with ignition but goes dead while cranking, so handy for anything which might put a lot of load on the fusebox :)
     
  10. AndyBa Paid Member Paid Member

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    Thanks Jon for the prompt reply.

    I used a couple of paper clips tonight on the remaining half of the connector and they worked a treat...certainly easier than using a sharp knife to destroy the connector surround as I did last night :) ...easy when you know how!

    I'm confused by your last paragraph...."anything labelled as 'X-live' is live with ignition but goes dead while cranking".
    I can't see that in the wiring guide, but that will be my mis-understanding!

    I have tried to test the fusebox "D" spades with a multimeter but I can't twist it round so that I can see/test the individual spades

    I'm tempted to just leave it to an auto electrician but also aware that it isn't rocket science, just a new skill to grasp!

    Taking another look at your wiring lists I see Green N is for aircon too. But my main focus for the moment is sorting the heated seats and hopefully the heated windscreen.
     
  11. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    If you check the mk2 CE2 section look in the notes column, it tells you what all the feeds do. if you're on a phone try rotating it horizontal the table might be getting cut off.

    N is used if you're running an aircon relay on the fusebox, it depends what aircon system you';re using if you need it mk2/corrado use one, mk3 doesnt usually as its taken over by the fan control module but some versions of VR6 use a relay
     
  12. AndyBa Paid Member Paid Member

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    Thanks again Jon.
    Though I still can't see anything with "x-live" in the CE2 section on my laptop either.

    However thinking about it I can suss that for myself by connecting each pin in turn with the multimeter with the ignition on. I may need to be lying on my back on the floor to see properly though :)
     
  13. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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  14. mikeluv New Member

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    hi, i have a 90 cabby gti. the fuel pump goes if i bypass . but i have no rev counter.
     
  15. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    the rev counter wire also triggers the fuel relay, but I think you posted this on FB and got it working right?
     
  16. mikeluv New Member

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    hi, yes thanks bud, all sorted now. the rev counter wire off the coil shows ground at rest. pulsed positive when running. the wire goes to a relay above the fusebox part no is 811905343 this then feeds the fuel relay. the wire going to this relay. a red and black was broken at the connection so the rev counter didnt work and the fuel relay didnt get the pulse so it didnt start without the bypass you mentioned. al sorted now though thanks. great place for info. well done. thanks again. just have to sort the hood now, i can get it to open by operating the relay closest to the boot lid. operating it manualy. its closes ok on the button in the front. any ideas? faulty relays perhaps?
     
  17. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    Might be the switch actually if it works fine one way, can probe the contacts on the socket or just jump it with wire to test that.

    You mentione it's been leaky for a while so it's worth looking all of it over for corrosion, pop the relay covers off if they're unsealed see if they look bad on the inside
     
  18. mikeluv New Member

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    thanks i will check it. dont suppose you have a diagram for it?
     
  19. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    sure do, if you check my signature link its g1cabwiring84.pdf
     
  20. Ozgti New Member

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    Got a few stray wires on my aqn to ce1 loom to fusebox.

    What relay goes in there?

    I think the black t shape plugs go together

    The white plug only has a corresponding clear plug that will fit.

    Does the 2 round pin plug fit next to the big N plug? Or is it for something else I've missed.

    The unshielded crimps I'm guessing all go to the same place on the fusebox, but where.

    Are the terminal 30s all positives?

    Where is the fusebox negative???

    Im colourblind so I have fall chance of doing wiring....

    Thanks in advance!! 20211002_144709.jpg 20211002_144217.jpg 20211002_144129.jpg 20211002_144025.jpg 20211002_144017.jpg 20211002_140846.jpg 20211002_140803.jpg 20211002_140501.jpg 20211002_140445.jpg 20211002_140431.jpg 20211002_140356.jpg
     

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