Ok So browns are earth. But the black t shape plug... I have 1 on the engine loom, 1 on the car loom and 1 on the smaller engine bay loom...
relay is 42/43, coolant level warning any browns either go to the big white earth block or to the claw brown/white is earth for MFA clocks, if car hasnt got MFA then its unused red/white on rear loom big black fusebox plug is fuel pump power, dont put any browns in there red/black on headlight loom big yellow fusebox plug is styarter cranking power, leave that empty red/black and red/yellow T shaped plug in headlight loom big yellow plug is brake light switch, this should still be in your dash loom the small 2 pin plug with white/red and whitre/blue is for MFA outside temp sensor grey/yellow male spade is for front fogs only, dont need it green/black and white/red T shaped plug is oil temp sensor and outside temp sensor for MFA, so looks like you engine loom and dash looms are mis-matched for the love of god, findd someone with fully working eyes before you go any further
main fusebox negative is the brown wire hanging out the back of the big white engine loom plug on fusebox, it goes into the big white 4 way earth block. you should also have 1 earth from dash loom in there plus one from fuel pump
Thanks mate... Where is the fusebox positive? So my car has mfa, but the loom doesn't is what you're saying?
live is one of the fat reds on the P spade side, the other goes to the ignition switch your car has the very early MK1 style MFA wiring so 2 pin round pin plug for outside temp, single spade for oil temp and the engine loom is later style so 2 pin spade plug with outside temp and oil temp in it
so what you need to do is cut the red/white wire and crimp it to a spade, fit to the red/white in the 2 pin plug. find the green/black and put that in there as well. the white/blue can be ignored
I have bought a abf to put into my mk2, looking at the wiring it has a couple of loose connections, there is no plug for the mk3 coil. and for coil positive is G1/12 red black. and the coil negative is loose, these have been labled, how would i wire the mk3 coil in? there is a loose wire from ecu pin 8, not plugged into anything. what is this for
sounds liek the coil plugs been chopped off, ecu pin 8 goes to the mk3 coil as well. when I do these looms I convert them back to mk2 coil and spark module but thats your call
i am using mk2 clocks, and i read that i have to change the tacho feed with mk3 ignition. so what would be needed to convert to mk2 coil and spark module. car was previosuly a 20vt.
you have 3 options: 1. use mk3 coil, run fusebox side of rev counter wire to the negative post under the flap on the side 2. as above but wire a tach adapt inline to the ecu rev counter wire to fusebox like 20v guys do 3. convert back to mk2 coil+tci module, run rev counter wire to the coil negative same as factory mk2
is there any posts on how to wire the mk3 coil? or how to convert to mk2 coil+tci module. i will go with your recomendation on the best setup
for the mk3 coil source a suitable plug then wire like so: 1 - brown (earth) 2 - green/red (wire from ecu pin 8) 3 - black (ignition) I prefer converting to the mk2 coil+tci, but to do it you need to source a donor spark module. any electronic ignition mk2 will do carb or injection. if your donor loom is digifant/16v strip the plastic covering off till you can extract the 4 wires from the spark module. you have earth to battery, live to coil, spark trigger to coil and a wire off to the ecu. strip the last wire back as far as you can and snip. if its a carb/kjet simple spark loom, simply chop off the dizzy plug and drag the wires for it back thru the rubber grommet to the module side. then drop the loom on top of the abf ecu loom, locating the tci where you would like it to sit. splice the abf red/green wire to the wire from tci module pin 6. on the digi/16v its the one that used to go to the ecu, on the carb/kjet its one of the 3 dizzy wires. usually green/white, the other 2 wires can be snipped out. then black to coil live, red/black or green to coil negative, brown to battey. finally on the abf loom crimp a spade on the oil coil black and put to coil positive, the brown is no longer needed. for rev counter this is fed from G1/12, with the mk3 coil there is a flap on the side which you flip open and underneath you'll see the live and spark trigger terminals to the coil unit. put the wire to the negative. for mk2 coil it just goes straight to the coil negative.
Thinking of fitting a discreet kill switch to 1.8t 89 Corrado. Any recommendations on which wire to interrupt?
what engine is it you have and how is it wired up? if you have an ecu/coil relay you could tap it to the earth trigger for that its low amp signal. or live feed to coils or injectors that way fuel pump will run and it'll crank but no fire, more chance of hearing theif attempting to steal
Sorry should have clarified, it's an AUQ using its loom and ecu but the Corrado original fusebox (1989). It was wired up using yours and Jimmy's guides on here. Just thinking, I think the ecu is earthed in the bulkhead, maybe an option?
Ive studied the FAQ but can’t seem to identify which relay is for the heated rear screen and heated mirrors? Hopefully will be fitting electric mirrors soon and it would be good to know
heated screen switch is powered from the x-contact relay 17/18. Heated mirrors are connected to a plug on the white wire on rear wiring loom for heated rear screen power wire or the green/white power wire output from heated rear screen switch depending on car/age