this is from an old thread i think this would be good, cheap to do, more power than an 8v gti and the insurance wouldnt be bad
so do the older heads just swap straight over on to the newer blocks then? Also are the mouting points for the water pump etc the same? (may seem obvious but i aint been in to vw's to long) would i be able to retain my 1600 driver head or is the 1800 driver head better?
Tank, pumps, pipes, loom, ECU, Dizzy.... Unless you really like your particular car, it's easier to buy a GTI to start with... there are plenty to be had these days around the 500 mark. 1600 and 1800 driver heads are the same. I think the injection heads have bigger inlet valves. Most of the 8v heads and blocks will swap OK, up to Mk3 golf at least. I think the X-Flow head or block needs some machining, but the normal stuff is OK. The ancillaries will bolt on fine, but you might need to change some pulleys over from your old engine, depending on what age of engine you get.
The 1600 and 1800 engines in the MK2 driver are the same but for crank throw. You can pull the 1600 crank, rods and pistons out. Hone the bores, find a doner Scirocco/Jetta 1.8 and stick the crank, pistons and rods from that in which will make your engine an 1800. Bean in mind you'll want to refresh big end shells and piston rings, etc... Carb wise, if you are using a GTI head you can run a carb (or two *wink*) without too much hassle. You'll need to blank off the injector holes - apparently gearbox drain plugs are ideal for this. You may need to sort out some kind of fuel supply although the fuel pump is driven by your bottom end, especially on twin DCOE's you want a solid state fuel pump and fuel pressure regulator. The GTI cam and head gives you better flow than the Driver item. Change the exhaust manifold and down pipe for the GTI or late model driver "bolt on" type version as they flow much better than the earlier C-clamp ones. Knock up a heat sheild to go between your exhaust manifold and carb(s). Also you might want to cut luvres in the scuttle pannel to allow air to pass across the back of the engine and out of the bonnet vents. This is an excellent way to keep under bonnet temperatures down. The ideal setup for "economical road use" but also some forms of motorsport where you are limited to a single carb, is to find a Lynx M-150 inlet manifold. This lets you run a single Weber DCOE/DellOrto DHLA carb side draft so it'll never go out of ballance. Best of Luck
Few additional points: 1. Another thing you can do to block the injector holes, is just leave the injectors in 2. It's easy to drill out the required coolant hole in a GTI head, simply match the diameter/angle of the hole in the old head & drill away. Start with a small bit and drill till you pop thru into the coolant channel, then use progressivly larger bits till the hole is opened up enough 3. Defo fit a complete 8v GTI zaust while the engine/head is out, when I fitted one on my 1.6 without changing anything else at all it reved more freely and felt a bit perkier 4. If you go for a 2.0 bottom end, watch out for the 2e lumps, since they're a bit taller than the 1.6/1.8 lump, you might find your carb airbox hits the bonnet! I was thinking about this, and I bet with some modification you could get an 1.8 Passat/MK3 SPI airbox to fit
is there any difference between the standard 8v gti zorst manifold and the 1800 driver one? Anyone any idea on what size the single big pipe is on a 4-1 manifold. My middle section is starting to blow so thinking of making my own section to go from down pipe to backbox. i can get hold of some 14foot lengths of thick wall 2inch boiler tube so me thinks this would be substantial enough for what i want.
GTI 8v and 1.8 driver zaust pipe bore is 2", the GTI downpipe & manifold is less restrictive than the driver one though. The 2 silencers under the car are the same on the 1.8 8v GTI & Driver as well, but the backbox on the Driver is a single exit pipe.
Most GTis came with a manifold with twin outlets, bolted to a downpipe with six studs. The downpipe then goes from two pipes to one before entering the system. 1.8 Drivers have a mainfold with a single large outlet and are joined to the downpipe with the dreaded c -clips which were invented by Satan when he was having a bad day (I believe some GTis have these as well). The end diameter of both is the same, so a GTi system will go straight on a 1.8 Driver. The design of the GTi manifold is superior and should flow better but as it a bit of a pig to change and the gains aren't huge I'd wait til you're taking the head off or engine out before worrying about changing it, And make sure you get a good downpipe with the manifold as they have a fancy sprung joint and are 90 from GSF!! Barkstar
tbh I prefer the spring clamps for ease of maintenance, when removing the head you just remove the c clamps and you can remove it complete with both manifolds. On a GTI you either have to remove both manifolds or **** about on your back under the car with 25 extension joints praying non of the studs shear
i'm gonna do the timing belt on the golf and was wondering if while im at it put a gti cam in then. would it make a bit of difference?
which one would be the best out of the EV or PB. sorry if it seems to be going on i just wanna make sure before i go ahead with it
yeah that'll be hydro tappets. A PB engine will defo have hydro tapets as well so best to go for that!
Yes, that'll be a PB Get the whole engine if it's in good nick!! If you just want a cam, PM me... I've got a good spare PB cam.
