Had a ****full of ruddy carbs

Discussion in 'Carburettor' started by Ben S, Nov 14, 2007.

  1. Ben S

    Ben S Forum Junkie

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    original pierburg was dire

    and the weber (bought new) has probably been running right for 3 days out of 3 years lol

    if its damp .. carb plays hell
    if its warm .. its down on power

    and when its cold.......... [xx(]

    every frikkin year

    idle goes to crap, have to use choke to hold rpm up at junctions... but then as choke is in use car won't pull off from junctions ... so theres an extra 2 actions to perform everytime car stops

    and now the things started the exhaust popping and banging on deceleration [8(]


    best its ever been was few years ago had it setup on an old dyno... then next garage it went to messed with settings... fark sake


    gimme fuel injection anyday
     
  2. pigbladder Forum Addict

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    sounds like its never been set up right...might need the jets changing etc
     
  3. Ben S

    Ben S Forum Junkie

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    its been set up by weber dealer at once point

    then by a guy who has seen 1000's of carbs for like 35 years on a 3 hr dyno session

    and scores of other garages
     
  4. drunkenalan Paid Member Paid Member

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    take it back to the dyno, if that the best its been.
     
  5. pigbladder Forum Addict

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    i think carbs do go out of tune more than inj cars

    but it should run ok if its set up propelry tbh
     
  6. t'mill Forum Member

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    I've never been fond of carbs (most of my cars have been) they're just to fussy. Great when working but theres to many parts to them to change when things start playing up.
     
  7. Ben S

    Ben S Forum Junkie

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    dyno was ... 120 ish quid .... due to taking 3 hours .. not going there again

    i'll just have to get it to any old centre with an exhaust probe .. get the mixture ish right and then leave it with a higher idle

    problem is .. u get it setup ... but by that time its warm and the air temp is warmer

    its the drive to work in the morning when its freezing .. or same thing on return journey that it suffers on
     
  8. pigbladder Forum Addict

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    is all the hot air gear in place...
     
  9. Ben S

    Ben S Forum Junkie

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    only hedgehog heater element thingy

    but i dont think its hot air related.... carb icing brings the car to a complete stop

    have ran car with air box with corrugated piping for hot air, have run bolt on filter with hot air pipe also

    and now just bolt on as is... all 3 result the same every year:

    a very annoying drive


    (part throttle heater thing is missing but no1 ever mentioned that it was needed, so it got junked with 2e2 years ago and no garages have noticed this)
     
  10. EZ_Pete

    EZ_Pete Forum Junkie

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    Not necessarily, in extreme cases yes, but in mild cases it'll just cause it to die at junctions etc. Exactly what you're getting.

    This is the second most important item for prevention of icing, not sure what they cost new, but could be worth investigating. All of my spares are U/S I think. Or trawl the scrappies for one. A telling measurement of good health is a resistance of <5 ohms from feed wire to the front face.
     
  11. Ben S

    Ben S Forum Junkie

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    how long / far would u have to go before carb icing would occur?

    30 seconds? 10 minutes?

    part number for this heater thing would be usefull :)

    and I don't get what you mean by the resistance .. plus dont own a multimeter
     
  12. EZ_Pete

    EZ_Pete Forum Junkie

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    Any time from 30 seconds onwards, if the conditions are right, and the two vitals are missing (temperature-controlled air and the part-throttle channel heater). It'll start happening immediately, but take a while for any amount of ice to build up. I wonder whether the time just after the coolant thermostat opens might also be a vulnerable time, as the pistons are nice and hot and expanded by then, when suddenly a bunch of cold water joins the cooling circuit and shrinks the block back down a tad, making for more resistance to piston uppy-downy-ness? [8-}] ? Of course that's nowt to do with icing, as such, but could contribute to cutting out.

    Vagcat says the heater is 026 906 333 at 30.65 Euros, so worth a look for a good'un down the scrappie. I'll double-check my collection at the weekend if you haven't found/bought one, but it looks like there's a failure mode that I hadn't realised where the heater element's internal ground connection goes high-resistance, and I haven't figured a way to fix this. Have a look for an airbox while you're at the scrappie, if you've ditched yours, I wouldn't advise anything else for the winter months, if at all.

    Resistance is a measure of the 'quality' of the heating element, a multimeter can be acquired for about a fiver from Maplin or a motoring shop. A cheap one like this will measure Volts and Ohms (resistance) which are the two most commonly measured things around a car.
     
    Last edited: Nov 14, 2007
  13. Mikey C Forum Member

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    i agree try the warm air stuff, i removed it from my mk2 and then on a cold day randomly i lost power on the motorway at 80, slowed to 20mph then it kicked back in again. Then on the highest section of snake pass i hit fog and power dropped dramatically but it didnt completely stop.

    replaced the hot air pipe and all was fine after that!

    carb icing does happen if you just remove the hot air piping
     
  14. Ben S

    Ben S Forum Junkie

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    the old airbox didnt even fit the weber lol ... it had to be cable tied on .. was a really naff bodge

    i cud buy another k&n bolt on winter kit again

    honestly u see the ball-ache carbs are tho

    30.65 euros so about 22 .. .. guess its off to vw dealer ... either that or the vw audi place in derby local scrappys rarely get mk2s


    *EDIT*

    thanks for your advice / help guys ... i know im whinging .. but seriously i am considering just ragging the nuts off the engine till it goes pop .. just so i dont have an excuse other than get a different lump
     
  15. EZ_Pete

    EZ_Pete Forum Junkie

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    I'll be interested to hear what the stealers quote for that part, don't forget this is Rip-off Britain, so I'd be surprised if your conversion from vagcat's Euro price isn't rather optimistic. Might be worth giving GSF a ring, and see if they can get hold of one for you, they buy lots of genuine Pierburg parts like waxstats and pulldown units, so I don't see why they couldn't/wouldn't stock this heater. Check that you have somewhere on your set-up that it'll fit too, before parting with any hard-earned :) ,


    Maybe put a Parts Wanted thread together for a known good heater and/or the K&N winter kit, whatever that is?
     
  16. rocco2litre

    rocco2litre Forum Junkie

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    sounds like the mixture is going out, i carry a little flat blade
    cause if it start stalling sods law the mixture screw has moved!!
    since i changed the o ring on the screw has been better.
     
  17. Ben S

    Ben S Forum Junkie

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    the winter kit for k&n is a crappy long piece of corrugated pipe and a connector u fasten to the bolt on
     
  18. Ben S

    Ben S Forum Junkie

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    just remembered why I binned the airbox

    weber is taller .. so strut brace no longer fitted...

    guess i shoulda binned the brace & kept the box
     
  19. Drew21 Forum Member

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    swapsies. My airbox for your strut brace!!

    ;)
     
  20. Ben S

    Ben S Forum Junkie

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    it's a few years old like lol

    [​IMG]

    this next one shows weber when new, with the beam of the strut brace removed due to clashing with airbox
    [​IMG]

    airbox binned .. and everything fitted nicely
    [​IMG]

    oh and this is what i used to try and stop icing few years ago

    [​IMG]
     

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