Cool.. do you know where the ecu relay live input feed is physically located. I've been looking on a2resource but am struggling to work it out. I'm realising I'm a bit of a mong when it comes to auto electrics. Also the brown plug, pin 1 should go to the ecu relay power pin 87. Again I'm not entirely sure what this means. I appreciate all the help.
if you're adding an external fuse and relay for the ecu/coilpack power, you can take the live input from one of the Y spades, or direct from the battery if you prefer when you get yourself a standard latched type relay, you'll see what I mean. it has 4 terminals, 30 which is the main input, in this case a fused permanent live feed. 87 output, which is the power feed to T6/1 plus pin 8 on the t10a/14a plug for the coilpacks. 85 and 86 are the switch feeds, they can go either way round but the standard is 86 live switch, 85 earth switch. how exactly they are wired depends on the application but for an ECU relay you would earth pin 85 and put 86 to an ignition feed, e.g. G1/4, G2/4 one of the D plug ignition feeds etc.
I've been through and worked out what I need and what I've got. Basically I am looking for alternative feeds instead of using G2/9 & G1/8 ( because I havnt got the pins in the plug) Anyone else feel free to step in and offer some knowledge, to recap : 1991 1.6 golf driver ce2 1999 audi a3 agu Thanks peeps
Z/1 is also fuel pump power you can use that for all of the feeds listed for g1/8, just put a fuse inline with this one. you have a wire for this that used to go to the carb inlet heater
also try my fusebox faq. it covers euro wiring better, plus it has vehicle specific sections http://clubgti.com/showthread.php?219775
It's a miracle...... I actually think I understand you....we'll see tonight when I'm stood scratching my head looking at all the wiring on my living room floor
Last Question and I promise I'll leave you alone for at least a day. Where is best for T10a pin 8- 87 or z/1
Pin 8 on the AGU is for the coilpack power, feed that into your ecu relay along with t6/1. It's just in my guide I try to cover all MK4 ECU conversions, on 5/6 cylinder engines its for the fuel injectors this is why I suggest for those you can use Z/1 or N if you want
Well took around 5 hours last night to sort it all out but it's done. I ran pin 8 into the relay as you suggested. I must admit I was happy when I'd finished but it looks good. I managed to get hold of some brand new plastic tubing from work so it's all nice and tidy. When I'm happy it runs my engine I'll add a list which wires went where, so we have something specific for an AGU into mk2 golf driver. Massive thanks to you for the help.
Update Well another busy day... Engine is finally back together, I decided whilst it was out I'd sort a few niggly oil leaks out. So here's what I've done: New inlet manifold gasket Rocker cover gasket Sump and oil pick up cleaned, i used some black RTV to seal it back up with. New cambelt, waterpump, tensioner's and thermostat. I gave the whole engine and box a good clean up to with a wire wheel on my drill. Fitted the ko3s with new gaskets and washers Starter motor stripped, cleaned and greased. In general the engine looks a million times better, it's no show winner but it'll be easier to identify any leaks etc when I get in running. Tomorrow will mostly involve me getting the engine seated in the golf ?? Thats all folks
Updates.... After a couple of let downs I've finally sourced the illusive rear gearbox bracket.... At the minute the engine is in but held up on the geabox with a spare trolley jack. Tonight I'm excited to be fitting the last bracket. The engine loom is all wired in fingers crossed it all works, I'm just splicing all the extra components like the washer bottle etc. I've managed to fit the A3 rad and fan setup using some custom brackets I knocked up. Just got to figure out the wiring. I've taken the audi 3pin plug from the thermo switch and 3 pin plug from the fan and wired in into the golf 3 pin rad and thermo switch wires, not entirely sure if it'll work, I guess I'll find out when I get it running. I've fitted a FMIC behind the grill and am needing to work out the pipework now to ensure its a nice smooth flow. Any suggestions for a decent quality supplier? This week should see the arival of my engine oil and filter ( mann and quantum) and my s2000 filter. Then I can have ago at firing her up. I decided to relocate the battery to the boot so I now have the whole left leg to make a custom air filter shield and cold feed to it. I'm having a few dramas locating some original wires that were/ should have remained from the golf engine. 1. Reverse light ( the one I thought it should of been doesn't seem to work) 2 expansion tank level. 3 oil pressure wires 4 coolant temp. Thanks for reading.....more to come
1. black/red and black/blue, on the F plug pin 6 and 7 2. green/red and blue/brown on C plug pin 2 and 7, these are on the headlight loom and should still be on there as you dont mess with this one 3. yellow and blue/black, on plug G2 pin 10 and 11 4. red/blue and brown/red on C plug pin 5 and 8, these are on the headlight loom and should still be on there as you dont mess with this one
1 yeah found this plug but it didn't work when I wired the new plug on... I shall investigate a little more tonight. 2 are these not the window washer pump wires? I've already wired them up and it works. 3 Iirc when I splied the two looms together I wired T10a pin 1 to g10.......so does that mean I need one wire from the agu loom and the other from the golf loom......the T10a pin 1 and g11? Or have I confused myself.. Also the engine had an aftermarket oil pressure sender on the oil filter housing. I found three wires cut and tucked in the agu loom near to it. One is a thick black wire which i think would have been to the original oil pressure switch wire and the other is a two core wire red/green and brown/black. Anyone any ideas?? 4 I'll have a look tonight Thanks for the info though Oh and just to clarify...the coolant temp sensor is in the hose that sits next to the head (g2/03) and coolant low level sensor is in the expansion tank ( c/05 c/08)? Right?
1. check fuse 14, if you loop a wire between the pins and switch on ignition lights should come on 2. dunno what happened there, I was sure it said washer pump level sender is actually what I said in number 4, red/blue and brown/red on C plug pin 5 and 8 3. yep you would use the mk4 wire, just crimp a spade on the end to fit the mk2 switch and use the other wire direct from the fusebox. the original mk4 wire is green./black with a black sheath over the top, sounds like one of them you found. 2 core red/green and brown/black sounds like reverse switch to me? 4. G2/3, yellow/red wire on the mk2, purple on mk4. yes the temp sensor is the 4 pin one in the side flange, if you want it to work direct you need a mk3 golf sensor, or add a mk2 one in a different flange. with the mk4 sensor you need a resistor. all in my oem guide anyway. yes the oen in the tank is level warning, C/5 and 8
In regards to the oil pressure switch, do I need two seperate sensors (one for high and one for low - as per your oem wiring thread) g10 would be connected to one and g11 to the other? On another note can you confirm the agu doesn't have a oil temp sender, I believe this would of been in the sump pan. But there's no hole. The reverse light wires were as you and I originally thought ( black/Red and black /Blue. ) it's just my switch that's knackered. The red/green black/ Brown wires have got me stumped though. They're in a type of moulded sheath with a German brand on. So I'm guessing they're original. They are in the coil/injector side of the loom. I'm going to have to strip all the tape and conduit off (which I did so nicely) and try to trace them back. My only other clue is that they were folded up and taped along with original oil pressure switch wire. So I'm guessing the original owner snipped the plug of at the same time he fitted the after market oil pressure gauge sender.
yep you need 0.24/0.3 bar and 1.8 bar. plus if you have mfa an oil temp sensor as well, with a T piece to fit it only some mk4 have oil level/temp sensor, its not compatible with your clocks even if it had one best bet chase the wires as you say
Thought I'd have a bash at fitting the mk3 fuel tank today. It was straight forward enough, a few bolts and pipes easy peasy. As with every job I do there's always a little problem, so here goes. The mk3 fuel pump- 4 pin Mk2 driver - 2pin. Just to top it off there's only the two wires for the sender in plug "m". I'm guessing the driver was a mechanical fuel pump. My options are: fork out for the loom and plug it in and hope it works or wire in a fuel pump relay directly then just conector the sender wires. Any one any ideas on the type of relay I'll need? And what's the best place to take a ignition live from? I have the carbon canister wire still remaining in the loom, I seem to remember leaving it incase I needed a power feed.?? Thanks
the easiest way round it is pull the loom front to back from a mk3 donor, split the 4 wires for the pump out and drop it on top of the old loom then it will then plug right in both ends or get the plug splice the driver wires to the middle 2 pins, run the outer pins to M/1 and M/2 on the fusebox as per my fuserbox faq you nweed a 67, 80 or 167 fuel relay in slot 12, from a digi or 16v mk2, or any petrol mk3 plus many other vw/seat
